Choosing Korean serums for your face: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A serum can be a valuable step between cleansing and moisturising, but not every Korean skincare serum suits every skin type. If you focus mainly on eye-catching packaging, high percentages or terms such as “glass skin”, it is easy to buy a product that is too heavy, too active or simply unsuitable.

So watch out for three common pitfalls:

1. A high percentage does not automatically mean a better choice. A concentrated azelaic acid serum or peptide formula may be appealing, but it may need to be introduced gradually.
2. “For all skin types” means little without an ingredients list. Oily skin may still need hydration, while dry skin may need a richer final layer.
3. Serums and ampoules are often presented as different product categories. In practice, the main differences are texture, concentration and intended use. An ampoule for the face can therefore be used in much the same way as a facial serum.

Which features should you check?

1. Start with your skin’s needs, not the latest trend

Decide what you want to support in your daily routine:

• Dry or dehydrated skin: look for glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or several forms of sodium hyaluronate. These are ingredients commonly found in hydrating serums.
• Sensitive skin: a short ingredients list with soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica, may be easier to assess. Also check for perfume, essential oils and potential allergens.
• Oily or combination skin: look for a light, watery texture and ingredients that the product description says are intended for sebum or pore care. A serum for enlarged pores will not literally make pores smaller, but it may help the skin look more even.
• Blemishes: a serum for blemish-prone or acne-prone skin should not automatically contain several strong active ingredients. Tea tree, centella asiatica and azelaic acid are often found in this category.
• Mature skin: peptides, adenosine and hydrating ingredients are often used in anti-ageing serums. Do not expect instant results; focus instead on the formula, frequency of use and how well your skin tolerates it.

2. Check the concentration and the full ingredients list

A percentage shown on the front is only one part of the formula. For example, the SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule lists 10% azelaic acid, and according to the product information, the formula is offered without niacinamide. This may be relevant if you prefer to avoid niacinamide.

Centella asiatica serums can also vary considerably. According to the product description, the SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule is positioned as a lightweight formula containing centella extract. The Tea-Trica Relief Ampoule lists, among other ingredients, centella asiatica extract and tea tree water. Tea tree may appeal to those with oily or acne-prone skin, but always check whether the other ingredients suit your sensitivities.

3. Consider texture, packaging and usage instructions

A watery serum will generally absorb quickly and is easy to apply underneath sun cream or moisturiser. A richer formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin, particularly during the winter months.

Also check:

• the amount: 30 ml, 50 ml or 100 ml makes a difference to the price per millilitre;
• the dispensing method: a pipette is useful for applying a few drops, while a pump bottle limits contact with the formula;
• the expiry date and the period after opening shown on the packaging;
• warnings such as “for external use only” and “avoid contact with the eyes”;
• whether a patch test is recommended.

With concentrated formulas, it is sensible to build up usage gradually. Do not start using several new serums at the same time. This makes it easier to see how your skin reacts to each individual product.

Our product picks for each skin profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: The lightweight, simple formula is an accessible choice if you are trying a serum for sensitive skin for the first time. The 55 ml size is practical for regular use.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information mentions a non-sticky texture and centella asiatica as a key ingredient, without relying on a long list of attention-grabbing claims.

Key benefit & highlights

Watery texture; 55 ml content; suitable for use underneath a moisturiser.

Suitable for: Buyers looking for premium quality

SKIN1004 Matrixyl 10% Boosting Shot Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: If you are specifically looking for a peptide serum with extra hydration, this formula contains Matrixyl, hyaluronic acid, Volufiline and micro-spicule technology, according to the product description.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The usage instructions recommend a patch test and gradually building up to two or three applications per week. This prevents a concentrated formula from being introduced too quickly.

Key benefit & highlights

10% Matrixyl according to the product name; hyaluronic acid; guidance for gradually getting your skin used to it.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: This option is aimed at people with oily, sensitive or blemish-prone skin who specifically want an azelaic acid serum without niacinamide.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The recommendation to use it every other day during the first week makes the formula easier to introduce gradually than using it daily from the very first application.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; centella asiatica; niacinamide-free formula according to the product information.

Suitable for: Fans of plant-based formulas

SKIN1004 Himalayan Rose Salt Pore Care Serum 100 ml

Why it suits this profile: The 100 ml size is suitable if you use a lightweight ampoule daily for oily or combination skin and value a vegan formula, according to the product information.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details mention a lightweight, non-greasy texture and a clear purpose: pore care and hydration for oily or combination skin.

Key benefit & highlights

100 ml content; vegan according to the product details; hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica in the ingredients list.

Frequently asked questions about Korean serums

How do you use Korean serums for the face?

First cleanse your face and apply toner if you wish. Then apply a few drops of serum and spread it evenly over your face and neck, unless the label says otherwise. Finish with a moisturiser. If you use the serum in the morning, apply sun protection as directed.

How long does a serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening shown on the packaging. Store the product in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat. A vitamin C serum, such as SOME BY MI Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum, requires particular attention to sun protection and storage, according to the product information.

Can you combine multiple serums?

Sometimes, but introduce new products one at a time. At first, do not combine several concentrated active formulas. A simple hydrating serum can often be used alongside a targeted formula, but stop if irritation occurs and always follow the label. If skin problems persist, seeking advice from a doctor or pharmacist is wiser than layering cosmetic products.