Choosing Korean serums: a practical guide to skin type, ingredients and use

A well-chosen serum can complement a simple skincare routine, but the range of Korean serums is vast. Are you mainly looking for hydration, a more even complexion, less visible pigmentation or care for sensitive skin? If so, packaging or a popular brand name alone is not a reliable way to choose.

Pay particular attention to three common pitfalls:

• A long ingredients list does not automatically mean a serum is suitable. A formula containing lots of active ingredients may actually be difficult for sensitive skin.
• A high percentage is not always more practical. For example, a vitamin C serum with 23% ascorbic acid requires more care with storage, introducing it gradually and sun protection than a milder version.
• “For all skin types” remains a broad product description. Check the texture, fragrance, alcohol, acids and retinoids before ordering.

What should you look for in a Korean skincare serum?

1. Start by choosing your main skin concern

A facial serum is not a universal product. Match your choice to one primary goal:

• Dry or tight-feeling skin: choose a hydrating serum with glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, ceramides or hyaluronic acid.
• Dull complexion or pigmentation: look for niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C.
• Blemishes: look for ingredients such as salicylic acid, tea tree, azelaic acid or niacinamide. When starting out, do not use several strong active ingredients at the same time.
• Fine lines and a less firm-looking complexion: retinal, adenosine, peptides and ceramides are often found in an anti-ageing serum. Retinal should be introduced gradually and used with daily SPF.
• Sensitive or easily reddened skin: limit the number of active ingredients. A fragrance-free serum for sensitive skin with soothing ingredients may be a more logical starting point.

The functions mentioned describe the purpose of ingredients and the product positioning. They are not medical treatments and do not guarantee a particular result.

2. Check percentages and combinations

Percentages make products easier to compare. According to the product information, the Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum contains 2% alpha-arbutin, while the Vitamin C23 Anti ageing serum lists 23% ascorbic acid. These are different formulas with different usage profiles.

Also pay attention to combinations. Niacinamide is found in several serums, but a high concentration may feel less comfortable for some users. With acids, vitamin C or retinal, it is sensible to test a small amount on a limited area of skin first.

3. Consider texture, packaging and shelf life

A gel serum feels different from an oily or creamy formula. A lightweight texture may feel more comfortable on oily or combination skin, while dry skin may benefit from a richer formula.

The packaging also affects how the product is used:

• A pump bottle limits direct contact with the formula.
• A dropper bottle requires hygienic use: do not touch the skin directly with the dropper.
• Vitamin C formulas may be particularly sensitive to light, heat and air. For its Vitamin C23 serum, states that it should be stored in a cool place and used within two months of opening to help preserve the active ingredients.
• Always check the expiry date and period after opening on the packaging. This information may vary from one batch to another.

Recommended Korean serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone mainly looking to add moisture without immediately starting with strong acids or retinoids. The bottle contains 50 ml and, according to the product information, the formula is fragrance-free.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The focus is on hyaluronic acid rather than a long list of exfoliating active ingredients. This makes it a more straightforward choice for a first Korean skincare serum.

Main benefit & highlights

50 ml capacity; according to the product information, contains five types of hyaluronic acid, plus panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for anyone who wants to combine hydration and a comfortable, plumper skin feel with several nourishing ingredients in one gel-like formula.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists a clear formulation containing 3% snail mucin filtrate, ginseng root water, glycerine and hyaluronic acid. However, check beforehand that snail mucin is suitable for your preferences.

Main benefit & highlights

30 ml pump bottle; according to the product specifications, alcohol-free, vegan and dermatologically tested.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

Vitamin C23 Anti ageing serum 20 ml

Why it suits this profile: For users deliberately seeking a high-strength vitamin C serum who are prepared to take storage, gradually introducing it and sun protection seriously.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The 23% ascorbic acid concentration is clearly stated. This tells you that it is not a mild formula for beginners. The product information recommends a patch test, cool storage and use with SPF.

Main benefit & highlights

23% ascorbic acid; 20 ml capacity; also contains panthenol, squalane and sodium hyaluronate.

Suitable for: Skin with visible blemishes and an uneven complexion

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: An interesting option for anyone looking for a serum for pigmentation containing niacinamide, tranexamic acid and alpha-arbutin in one formula.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The two key percentages are explicitly included in the product name: 10% niacinamide and 4% TXA. This means you do not have to rely solely on terms such as “glow” or “brightening”.

Main benefit & highlights

30 ml pump bottle; according to the product specifications, fragrance-free, alcohol-free and suitable for normal skin.

How to use a facial serum in the Netherlands

Usually apply a serum after cleansing and, if applicable, after toner, but before moisturiser. Start with a small amount; two to three drops are enough for many liquid formulas. Use a sunscreen during the day, especially when using vitamin C, acids, azelaic acid or retinal.

Do not combine several strong products straight away. One possible routine is:

1. Start by using one active serum two to three times a week.
2. Observe how your skin reacts.
3. Increase the frequency only if it remains comfortable.
4. Only then add a second targeted product.

If you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, stop using the product. If in doubt, consult a doctor or dermatologist. Always check the current ingredients list on the packaging too, as formulas may change.

Frequently asked questions about Korean serums

Which Korean serum is suitable for dry skin?

Look for a hydrating serum containing glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, ceramides or hyaluronic acid. The Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum and Torriden DIVE IN serum are examples where hydration is the main focus. Finish with a moisturiser to help retain moisture.

Can I use a vitamin C serum every day?

That depends on the concentration and how your skin reacts. According to the product information, a high-concentration formula such as the 23% ascorbic acid in the Vitamin C23 serum requires a patch test, cool storage and SPF during the day. It is best not to start by using several active serums at the same time.

How long does a serum last after opening?

Use the period-after-opening indication on the packaging as your guide. Some products state six or twelve months, for example, while a vitamin C serum may need to be used sooner according to the product instructions. Store each serum as directed and close the packaging immediately after use.