Joybuy Insights

Choosing a Korean facial serum: compare ingredients, skin types and popular picks

A Korean facial serum can be a useful addition to your routine, but not every product suits every skin type. A lightweight gel texture can feel comfortable on oily skin, while dry or mature skin may benefit more from hydrating ingredients followed by a nourishing cream.

The biggest mistake isn’t necessarily choosing the wrong brand, but picking a serum based on a bold claim without checking the formula and instructions for use.

Common pitfalls when choosing a facial serum

1. A high percentage doesn’t automatically mean a better choice

A niacinamide serum with a high percentage may sound appealing, but a potent formula may be less suitable for sensitive or freshly cleansed skin. Also look for supporting ingredients such as panthenol, glycerine, hyaluronic acid or centella asiatica.

When using acids, retinol or azelaic acid, it’s important to build up gradually. Even a product described as suitable for daily use may cause irritation in practice if you combine it with several other active serums.

2. Marketing claims can be taken too literally

Phrases such as “minimises pores”, “removes pigmentation” or “boosts collagen” often describe a cosmetic aim, not a guaranteed result. A brand’s own research may measure certain visible improvements under specific conditions. That doesn’t mean every user will see the same effect.

So look for verifiable information: ingredients list, concentration, volume, frequency of use and warnings.

3. Using too many active ingredients at once

Combining a retinol serum with AHA, BHA, azelaic acid or a spicule product can put unnecessary strain on your skin. Start with one active product and use it for a few weeks before adding a second. During the day, pair active ingredients with a sunscreen offering suitable protection.

Important points to check

1. Choose the main ingredient based on your goal

  • Visible pores and shine: niacinamide, hydrating ingredients and, if appropriate, mild exfoliating acids. A serum for visible pores won’t literally make them permanently smaller, but it may make your skin look smoother or more even.
  • Uneven skin tone and visible marks: tranexamic acid, niacinamide, azelaic acid, kojic acid or vitamin C derivatives. A serum for pigmentation works best as part of a routine that includes daily sun protection.
  • Redness or acne-prone skin: azelaic acid, centella asiatica, panthenol and allantoin may suit a soothing routine. Stop using the product if irritation persists, and don’t apply a cosmetic serum to broken skin.
  • Early signs of ageing: retinol, retinal, bakuchiol, peptides and hydrating ingredients. Introduce a retinol serum gradually and use it in the evening.
  • Dryness: glycerine, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, ceramides and panthenol. A hydrating facial serum usually doesn’t replace a moisturiser.

2. Check the INCI list and product information

Ingredients are listed in descending order of quantity, with exceptions for ingredients present in low concentrations. Also check that the ingredients on the packaging match the online information; formulas can change.

For cosmetics sold in the EU, relevant details include an ingredients list, the responsible person and safety information. Also check the batch number, expiry date or period after opening. For products containing retinol, acids or azelaic acid, warnings about sun exposure, eyes and irritated skin are especially important.

3. Consider the texture, packaging and volume

A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers. A dropper can be practical, but needs to be closed and stored carefully. Check the volume too: many serums contain 30 ml, while some ampoules contain as little as 9 ml. This affects the price per millilitre and how long the product will last.

Recommended Korean facial serums for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, the formula combines 60% propolis extract and 2% niacinamide in a lightweight, honey-like texture for everyday use.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The stated concentrations and ingredients are clearly listed, so you don’t have to rely on a generic glow claim alone.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, niacinamide, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate; easy to slot into an existing routine.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
celimax Serum for relieving enlarged pores

celimax Serum for relieving enlarged pores with niacinamide

Why it suits this profile: A good option if you’re looking for a serum for visible pores with a lightweight gel texture and a fragrance-free formula, according to the product description.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information gives specific percentages: 5% niacinamide and 3% tranexamic acid, rather than relying on a vague claim about pores.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, hyaluronic acid, allantoin and a pump dispenser; designed to target pores, skin tone and hydration.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The instructions recommend starting with 1–2 drops once or twice a week, then gradually increasing use.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The warnings mention possible dryness, patch testing on a small area of skin and avoiding broken skin.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid, panthenol, allantoin, centella and ceramide NP; suitable for a routine targeting redness and uneven skin tone.

Suitable for: Beginners interested in retinol
Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The product information lists 0.1% retinol, retinal, bakuchiol, panthenol and ceramide NP for a gradually established evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions recommend using a small amount less often at first. They also advise against combining it with acids.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, retinol and retinal combined with beta-glucan, panthenol and ceramides; designed for evening use.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety requirements.

How to use a Korean facial serum

  1. Cleanse your face and gently pat your skin dry.
  2. Apply toner if it’s part of your routine.
  3. Use a few drops of serum; using more won’t automatically give you better results.
  4. Finish with a moisturiser.
  5. Use sun protection during the day, especially when using retinol, acids, kojic acid or vitamin C derivatives.
  6. Introduce new active ingredients one at a time and stop if you experience clear irritation.

Frequently asked questions

How long does a bottle of facial serum last?

It depends on the volume and how much you use. A 30 ml bottle used a few drops at a time may last several weeks. Always check the period after opening and store the serum in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

Can I use a Korean facial serum every day?

That depends on the formula. A hydrating facial serum with glycerine or hyaluronic acid is often used daily. It’s best to introduce retinol, azelaic acid and exfoliating acids gradually, following the product instructions.

Which serum is suitable for acne-prone skin?

Look for a lightweight, non-sticky formula with ingredients such as niacinamide, azelaic acid, centella or panthenol. Don’t use several potent active products at once, and consult a doctor if you have persistent or severe skin problems.