Choosing a Face Serum: How to Find a Formula That Suits Your Skin

A face serum can be a useful step between cleansing and moisturising. However, it's not wise to rely solely on terms like 'glow', 'anti-ageing', or 'intensive correction'. The right choice depends mainly on your skin type, the active ingredients, and how easily the product fits into your routine.

For shoppers, there are three common pitfalls:

• Confusing a high percentage with a better choice. For example, a vitamin C serum with 23% ascorbic acid is clearly more powerfully formulated than a mild version, but it can also feel uncomfortable more quickly on sensitive skin.
• Mistaking marketing claims for guaranteed results. According to a brand's own research, ingredients can contribute to a smoother, more even, or hydrated appearance. That's no guarantee of the same result for every user.
• Ignoring the full formula. A serum might contain an interesting active ingredient, but it could also include perfume, exfoliating substances, or multiple active ingredients that don't work well with your routine.

Which specifications should you check?

1. First, choose your skin goal, then the ingredient

A hydrating serum often contains humectants like glycerine, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid. These ingredients help to attract moisture and are usually a good match for dry or dehydrated skin. A formula with multiple types of hyaluronic acid, like Torriden DIVE IN, combines five types of hyaluronic acid with panthenol, ceramide NP, and beta-glucan, according to the product description.

For a serum for sensitive skin, a short ingredients list, a fragrance-free formula, and a gradual introduction are practical. Centella asiatica, panthenol, and allantoin are regularly found in soothing formulas. However, always check the current ingredients list on the packaging.

For oily or acne-prone skin, a niacinamide serum or azelaic acid serum can be a good option. SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule states it has a niacinamide-free formula with 10% azelaic acid and centella asiatica. This could be suitable for someone who wants to consciously avoid niacinamide. The product description mentions supporting a more even skin texture and a calmer appearance; these are brand and product claims, not guaranteed outcomes.

2. Pay attention to concentration and frequency of use

A percentage only tells you about the amount of one ingredient. It doesn't tell you how your skin will react to the complete formula.

• Azelaic acid 10%: For example, start with a small amount every other day. The product information for SKIN1004 advises a gradual introduction during the first week.
• Vitamin C: According to the ingredients list, Vitamin C23 contains 23% ascorbic acid. The manufacturer recommends a patch test, cool storage, and using it within two months of opening to preserve the active ingredients.
• Retinal: According to the product information, celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot contains 0.1% retinal and is intended for evening use. Build up use gradually and combine it with sun protection during the day.
• Niacinamide and tranexamic acid: ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% combines both ingredients with hyaluronic acid and alpha-arbutin, among others. This makes it an option for those looking for a serum for pigmentation or dark spots, but an even skin tone doesn't automatically come from a single product.

Don't use multiple strong active serums at the same time if your skin isn't used to them. It's best to introduce one new product at a time.

3. Check the fragrance, texture, packaging, and shelf life

A fragrance-free formula can be a logical choice if you want to avoid scents in your skincare. According to the product information, Embryolisse Hydra Serum is dermatologically tested and suitable for all skin types, but the ingredients list does mention perfume and limonene. This makes it less suitable for someone who wants to buy strictly fragrance-free.

Also, look at the texture:

• A thin gel or watery lotion works well under sunscreen and make-up.
• A richer serum with oils or silicones can be more comfortable for dry skin.
• A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers.
• Some vitamin C formulas require extra attention to storage. Always follow the manufacturer's label and check the shelf-life information on the packaging.

When trying a new product, first perform a small patch test on a limited area of skin. Stop using it if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling, or a burning sensation, and contact a doctor or pharmacist if in doubt.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Price-conscious beginners

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A simple daily hydration step with a light texture and a 30 ml size.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information mentions hyaluronic acid and a fast-absorbing formula, so you don't start with multiple strong actives right away.

Key benefit & plus points

30 ml, light lotion texture, suitable for all skin types according to the product description. Please note: the ingredients list mentions perfume.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for top quality

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for those looking for a larger size and a fragrance-free, vegan formula for daily use.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The specifications specifically name five types of hyaluronic acid and additional ingredients, rather than just a general promise of 'glow'.

Key benefit & plus points

50 ml, fragrance-free and vegan according to the product description; with panthenol, ceramide NP, and beta-glucan.

Suitable for: Specific use & intensive users

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule 9ml

Why it suits this profile: For those who want to specifically incorporate an azelaic acid serum into a routine for blemish-prone or sensitive skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information advises starting with a small amount every other day. This prevents you from building up an active ingredient too quickly.

Key benefit & plus points

10% azelaic acid, niacinamide-free, and supplemented with centella asiatica; compact 9 ml size.

Suitable for: Shoppers focusing on dark spots

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: For users who want to combine niacinamide and tranexamic acid in one routine to address an uneven skin tone.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists exact concentrations: 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid. This allows you to make a more informed comparison than just relying on the term 'brightening'.

Key benefit & plus points

30 ml, fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product specifications; also contains hyaluronic acid and alpha-arbutin.

Frequently Asked Questions about Face Serums

How do you use a face serum?

First, cleanse your face and, if you wish, use a toner. Then, apply a small amount of serum, usually a few drops, and finish with a moisturiser. If you use the serum in the morning, apply sunscreen as the final step. Always follow the instructions for the specific product.

How long does a face serum last?

That varies by formula. Check the expiry date and the period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. Vitamin C serums and products with retinal can be particularly sensitive to light, heat, and air. Store them as the manufacturer recommends and close the packaging immediately after use.

Can you combine multiple serums?

Sometimes you can, but build up gradually. Don't immediately combine multiple strong actives like high-concentration vitamin C, retinal, and exfoliating ingredients. Use one serum for a few weeks first, and only add a second one if your skin remains comfortable. A simple hydrating serum is often easier to combine than multiple correction-focused formulas.