Choosing a facial serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A facial serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. However, it’s not a good idea to choose one based solely on claims such as “glow”, “glass skin” or “intensive care”. The right choice depends on your skin type, the ingredients and how you plan to use the product.

There are three common pitfalls to watch out for:

• A familiar ingredient doesn’t tell you everything. Hyaluronic acid can help your skin retain moisture, but a serum containing it is no substitute for a moisturiser.
• A high concentration isn’t automatically right for you. Azelaic acid, niacinamide and exfoliating ingredients may suit some skin types, but sensitive skin can react to a formula that’s too active.
• Marketing claims can sometimes be interpreted too broadly. A brand may describe skin as looking smoother, firmer or more even based on its own research or product description. That doesn’t guarantee a medical or lasting result.

Which specifications should you check?

1. Start with your skin’s needs

Think about what you want a facial serum to do. For dry skin, the focus is usually on moisture and comfort. A serum for dry skin often contains glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, ceramides or hyaluronic acid.

If your skin feels red or delicate, a serum for sensitive skin with a simple formula and soothing ingredients may be a better fit. Centella asiatica, allantoin and panthenol are commonly found in these formulas. Also check whether it contains fragrance if you’d rather avoid it.

For oily or blemish-prone skin, look for a lightweight texture and ingredients such as zinc PCA or azelaic acid. A serum for blemish-prone skin isn’t a medicine. Stop using it if irritation persists, and ask a dermatologist for advice if needed.

2. Check the full ingredients list

The order of ingredients on the packaging gives you a useful indication of the formula. Don’t just look at the name on the front; check for:

• Hyaluronic acid: comes in different forms and molecular sizes, so the product may mainly leave your skin feeling more hydrated.
• Ceramides: suit a routine focused on supporting the skin barrier.
• Niacinamide: often used to care for uneven-looking skin tone and oily skin. Not everyone wants to use or can tolerate this ingredient.
• Alpha-arbutin and tranexamic acid: used in serums designed to give skin a more even-looking tone. Don’t expect guaranteed removal of pigmentation.
• Fragrance and essential oils: can add a pleasant scent, but aren’t essential to the product’s skincare benefits.

Always check the latest INCI list on the packaging. Manufacturers may change the ingredients.

3. Consider how to use it, the packaging and the shelf life

A serum is usually applied after cleansing and, if you use one, toning. A few drops are often enough, followed by a moisturiser. If you use the product during the day, add a sun protection product in line with the directions for use.

Also check the shelf life, batch number and period after opening, for example 12M. Store the bottle somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight. A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers; a dropper needs a little more care to keep it hygienic. If the formula contains active ingredients, do a patch test on a small area of skin first.

Recommended facial serums for different needs

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

ANUA 7 RICE CERAMIDE HYDRATING BARRIER SERUM 50ml

Why it suits this profile: A good fit if you want to combine hydration with care for your skin barrier, and like to use several supportive ingredients in one routine.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfall

The product information provides a specific INCI list and recommends using 2–3 drops. If you’re sensitive to fragrance, check whether the formula contains it.

Key benefits and highlights

The ingredients list includes ceramide NP, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide and glycerine. Size: 50 ml.

Suitable for: Targeted use and intensive users

SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: For anyone specifically looking for a Korean facial serum with azelaic acid and a lightweight formula, suitable for skin prone to blemishes or visible redness.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfall

According to the product description, the formula is niacinamide-free. Start by using it every other day, as the brand recommends, and increase use only if your skin tolerates it well.

Key benefits and highlights

According to the product information, it contains 10% azelaic acid and Centella asiatica, and comes in a 30 ml bottle. A patch test is still a good idea.

How to use a facial serum

1. Cleanse your face with a product your skin tolerates well.
2. Apply toner if it’s part of your routine.
3. Apply a few drops of serum to your face and, if you like, your neck.
4. Gently press the product into your skin without rubbing hard.
5. Finish with a moisturiser.
6. Use sun protection during the day if recommended in the product instructions.

It’s best not to combine several strong active serums when you’re just starting out. This makes it easier to see which product feels right for your skin and helps you avoid a routine with too many potential irritants.

Frequently asked questions about facial serums

Is a facial serum suitable for every skin type?

Not every serum suits every skin type. A hydrating serum with glycerine or hyaluronic acid is often a sensible place to start, but fragrance, niacinamide or active acids may not suit your preferences. Check the ingredients and try a new product on a small area of skin first.

How long does a facial serum last?

Check the use-by date and the period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. Many cosmetic products, for example, display 12M, which means they should be used within twelve months of opening. Store the serum as directed and close the packaging securely.

Can you use a hyaluronic acid serum every day?

Many product instructions say it can be used in the morning and evening, but always follow the label for your specific product. Apply a moisturiser afterwards. If your skin feels tight, becomes red or irritated, use the serum less often or stop using it.