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Choosing a facial serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A facial serum can be a practical addition to your daily routine. The texture is usually lightweight, and a formula often focuses on one main concern, such as hydration, a dull appearance, uneven skin tone or visible dry lines. Even so, it is not advisable to choose a product based solely on a prominent claim on the packaging.

The key differences lie in the ingredient list, concentration, frequency of use and suitability for your skin type. Checking these points in advance can help you avoid a disappointing purchase and means you do not have to use several serums at the same time.

Common pitfalls when buying a serum

1. Mistaking a long ingredient list for a powerful formula

A serum with lots of ingredients is not automatically more suitable. Start by considering the product’s purpose. A hyaluronic acid serum, for example, can suit dehydrated skin, while a retinol serum requires gradual introduction and extra attention to sun protection.

Also look out for potentially irritating ingredients. Fragrance, essential oils, alcohol or exfoliating acids may be less comfortable for some users. Always check the current ingredient list on the packaging, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

2. Equating “brightening” with removing pigmentation

A brightening serum may, according to the product description, help make a dull appearance or uneven skin tone less noticeable. This does not automatically mean that pigmentation will disappear. Cosmetic products also do not work in exactly the same way for everyone.

When comparing a serum for pigmentation, ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, niacinamide or vitamin C are relevant. Use sunscreen during the day, as UV exposure can affect the visibility of discolouration. Brand claims are not a guarantee of a particular personal result.

3. Combining too many active ingredients at once

Combining a retinol serum with several acids, exfoliants and heavily fragranced products can make your routine unnecessarily complicated. It is better to start with one new facial serum and use a small amount. For retinol products, the product information generally recommends starting two to three times a week and gradually adjusting the frequency.

Stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation. Products containing retinol or retinal are generally not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding according to the accompanying safety information, unless otherwise advised by a healthcare professional.

Features you should check

1. The active ingredient and concentration

Compare products based on specific information:

  • Hyaluronic acid: intended to leave the skin’s surface feeling hydrated and supple. The Embryolisse Hydra Serum contains sodium hyaluronate.
  • Alpha-arbutin: Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum lists 2% alpha-arbutin and niacinamide in its formula.
  • Retinol and retinal: Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum lists 0,1% retinol. The SKIN1004 Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule contains retinol and retinal.
  • Centella asiatica: a centella ampoule is particularly worth considering if you are looking for a lightweight, soothing and hydrating texture. However, check the full composition and any additional ingredients.
  • Peptides: SKIN1004 Matrixyl 10% Boosting Shot Ampoule lists Matrixyl, Volufiline and hyaluronic acid.

A percentage only tells you something when you also know exactly which substance it refers to. “Complex”, “boost” and “shot” are marketing terms; the ingredient list provides verifiable product information.

2. Texture, volume and use

A gel serum feels different from an oil-based or lotion-like formula. A lightweight texture may feel more comfortable for oily or acne-prone skin. Dry skin may benefit more from a hydrating serum that you seal in with a moisturiser.

Also check the volume. Many serums contain 30 ml, while some ampoules come in smaller packages. The SKIN1004 Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule contains 9 ml; a Some By Mi retinol trial kit consists of a serum and eye cream, each containing 10 ml. A smaller pack can be useful if you want to introduce a formula gradually.

3. Sensitivity, fragrance and daily protection

A serum for sensitive skin is not necessarily suitable for everyone with sensitive skin. Check whether the product is fragrance-free, which active ingredients it contains and whether a patch test is recommended.

Sun protection during the day is important when using retinol and some exfoliating formulas. Use the serum as stated on the product packaging and avoid contact with the eyes. Products containing tea tree, citrus oils or fragrance deserve extra consideration if your skin reacts easily.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone mainly looking for hydration and wanting to add a serum to their morning or evening routine. The product information lists a lightweight lotion texture and use for all skin types.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product focuses on hydration rather than targeting several potent concerns at once. The formula contains, among other ingredients, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate; check the label for fragrance if your skin is sensitive to it.

Main benefit & advantages

30 ml, lightweight texture, sodium hyaluronate in the ingredient list and, according to the product information, dermatologically tested and non-comedogenic.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for anyone who wants to compare a Korean formula featuring alpha-arbutin, rice bran water and niacinamide, with a particular focus on a dull or uneven complexion.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists a specific concentration of 2% alpha-arbutin. This makes it easier to assess the composition than a vague claim about “glow” or “brightening”.

Main benefit & advantages

30 ml, lightweight hydrating serum texture, 2% alpha-arbutin and niacinamide; according to the product information, fragrance- and alcohol-free.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 mL

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 mL

Why it suits this profile: For users who want to introduce a retinol serum with a specific goal and are prepared to adapt their routine. The formula lists 0,1% retinol, retinal, bakuchiol, panthenol and ceramide NP.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product instructions recommend gradual introduction, a patch test and evening use. This helps prevent applying too much or using it too frequently from the outset.

Main benefit & advantages

30 ml, retinol concentration of 0,1% according to the product information, plus retinal, bakuchiol, panthenol and ceramide NP.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

How to use a facial serum practically

Apply a serum after cleansing and before moisturiser in most cases. A few drops are often enough; using more product does not automatically mean better results. Test a new formula on a small area of skin first. Use sun protection during the day when recommended in the product instructions.

If you want to target several concerns, do not add everything at once. For example, start with a hydrating serum and assess after a few weeks whether the texture and comfort suit your skin. Only then consider adding a brightening serum or retinol product.

Frequently asked questions about facial serums

When should you apply facial serum?

Use the serum after cleansing and, if desired, after toner. Finish with a moisturiser. A retinol serum is generally used in the evening according to the product instructions. Sun protection is important during the day.

How long does a serum last?

Check the expiry date, batch information and period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. Store the product in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Retinol and vitamin C formulas can be particularly sensitive to light, air and heat, so close the packaging securely after use.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Look for a short, straightforward ingredient list and check for fragrance, alcohol, essential oils and potent active ingredients. A centella ampoule or hydrating serum may be a sensible place to start, but always carry out a patch test. Stop using the product if irritation occurs and seek medical advice if symptoms persist.