Choosing facial skincare: how to compare serums, creams and eye care

A new facial skincare routine often starts with a serum, cream or eye product. But attractive packaging is no guarantee that a product is right for your skin. With Korean skincare, vitamin C serums, retinol serums and products for dark spots, marketing claims and practical suitability can easily get mixed up.

So, look out for these three common pitfalls:

• A long ingredients list doesn’t automatically mean a product is a better fit. A formula with several active ingredients can be confusing for beginners or more likely to cause irritation.
• “For all skin types” isn’t a personal recommendation. Sensitive skin may react differently to fragrance, alcohol, essential oils, acids or vitamin A derivatives.
• A temporary smoothing or brightening effect isn’t the same as a lasting change. Make-up, light-reflecting ingredients and humectants can make your skin look different straight away. So, check the full product description and instructions for use.

Which specifications should you check?

1. Check the active ingredient and its concentration

With a facial serum, it’s important to look beyond the ingredient name. Check its form and, if stated, its concentration too.

• Niacinamide serum: often chosen to promote a more even-looking complexion, hydration and support for the skin barrier. The effect depends on the complete formula and how you use it.
• Vitamin C serum: check which type of vitamin C it contains. Pure ascorbic acid behaves differently from stabilised derivatives. Dr. Althea’s product description lists, among other ingredients, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and ascorbic acid.
• Retinol serum and retinal serum: these are vitamin A ingredients that require gradual introduction. The celimax Retinol Shot lists retinol and, according to the instructions, is intended for evening use. The celimax Retinal Shot lists 0.1% retinal.
• Serum for dark spots: ingredients such as tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C and kojic acid are widely used in these products. Treat these claims as information from the brand, not as a guaranteed result.

2. Assess the instructions for use and skin tolerance

A product may be technically interesting but impractical if you use it too often or incorrectly. These points are important when using active ingredients:

1. Test a new product on a small area of skin first.
2. Don’t introduce several strong actives at the same time.
3. Use sunscreen during the day, especially with products containing vitamin C, kojic acid, retinol or retinal.
4. Avoid contact with your eyes unless the product is specifically intended for the eye area.
5. Stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and seek advice from a doctor or dermatologist if needed.

3. Check the size, packaging and storage instructions

A 15 ml product and a 55 ml product may look similar at first, but they differ in how long they’ll last and their price per millilitre. Also check:

• the net contents, for example 30 ml, 55 ml or 150 ml;
• the ingredients list for potential allergens;
• the use-by date and period-after-opening symbol on the packaging;
• the storage instructions, such as keeping the product cool, dry and out of direct sunlight;
• whether the product is intended for the face, the eye area or both.

Moisturising facial skincare with glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramides or squalane may suit dry or dehydrated skin. Oily or blemish-prone skin may prefer a light, non-sticky texture. This still depends on the formula as a whole.

Recommendations by skin concern and shopping profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its light texture and 30 ml size make this a straightforward choice if you’re new to vitamin C serums.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description names the form of vitamin C used and warns about sun exposure. This makes it easier to assess the formula than relying on the term “brightening” alone.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the ingredients list, it contains niacinamide, tranexamic acid, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C derivatives. Use sun protection during the day.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for a premium product

Medicube Triple Collagen Serum 4.0 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its 55 ml size and blend of humectant ingredients make it a good fit if you’re looking for a more generous serum for everyday use.

How this product avoids the pitfall

You can check the ingredients list: alongside collagen, it includes niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and glycerine, among other ingredients. The brand’s claim about firmness remains a product claim.

Key benefit & highlights

55 ml size; according to the product information, it contains several forms of collagen, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. The formula also contains fragrance and denatured alcohol.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster

Why it suits this profile: This is aimed at users who have deliberately chosen retinal and can follow a gradual build-up in their evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions advise starting with every other evening for the first two weeks, using a small amount and applying sunscreen during the day.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the product information, it contains 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000. For evening use only; don’t use on or around the eyes unless the instructions say to.

Suitable for: Targeted eye care

Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum - Ginseng + Retinal

Why it suits this profile: A good choice if you’re looking for an eye serum that, according to the product information, can also be used on the face.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information clearly explains how to apply it around the eyes and warns against eye contact. This makes its intended area of use clearer than that of a general facial serum.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml size; according to the ingredients list, it contains ginseng, retinal, niacinamide, ceramide NP and sodium hyaluronate.

How to build a simple routine

For most people, a short routine is easier to stick to than several layers of active ingredients:

Morning

1. Gentle cleansing or lukewarm water.
2. One serum, such as a niacinamide serum or vitamin C serum.
3. Moisturising facial skincare.
4. Sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.

Evening

1. Cleanse.
2. One targeted serum, such as a product containing retinal, retinol, azelaic acid or kojic acid.
3. A cream that suits how your skin feels.

Don’t use retinol and retinal every evening straight away. Alternate active products and give your skin time to respond. A product such as AXIS-Y TXA 2.5% Intensive Brightening Cream may interest anyone comparing tranexamic acid and niacinamide, while an azelaic acid and hyaluronic acid serum may be a better fit for a routine focused on uneven skin tone and hydration. Always check the latest ingredients list and warnings on the packaging.

Frequently asked questions about facial skincare

How many facial serums do I need?

One serum is usually enough for a simple routine. Start by choosing your main concern, such as hydration, dull-looking skin or uneven skin tone. Using several active serums at once increases the risk of irritation and makes it harder to work out which product is having an effect.

How long does facial skincare last?

Check the use-by date and the period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. Store products containing vitamin C, retinol or retinal according to the instructions, often away from direct sunlight and heat. A change in smell, colour or texture may be a reason to stop using the product.

Is Korean skincare suitable for sensitive skin?

Korean skincare is a broad category, covering everything from gentle hydrating products to formulas containing retinal, acids, fragrance or essential oils. So, don’t judge by the country of origin alone: check the ingredients, how often to use the product and any warnings. Introduce one new product at a time and, ideally, carry out a patch test first.