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Choosing a facial serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A facial serum can be a practical addition to your skincare routine, but not every serum suits every skin type. A hydrating serum for dry skin has different properties from a brightening serum or a serum for redness. Focusing only on a striking claim or a popular ingredient could therefore lead you to spend money unnecessarily.

Common pitfalls when choosing a facial serum

1. A standout ingredient does not tell you everything

A product name featuring hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, bakuchiol or PDRN may sound clear, but it does not tell you how much of the ingredient is present or how the full formula is made up. Therefore, check the INCI ingredient list. Ingredients listed earlier are generally present in higher quantities than those at the bottom of the list. This provides context, but not a complete picture of how the product works.

Pay attention to marketing claims too. Results may be mentioned based on a brand’s own research or claims, but they should not be interpreted as guaranteed results for every user.

2. There is no automatic one-size-fits-all serum

A rich gel can feel pleasant on dehydrated or dry skin, but may feel heavy on oily skin. A formula containing active ingredients, such as azelaic acid or vitamin C, may be appealing to some users, but often needs to be introduced gradually. You should therefore test a serum for sensitive skin on a small area of skin first.

Fragrance, alcohol and several active ingredients used in one routine can also affect individual tolerance. Always check the current packaging, as ingredients may change.

3. Using too many serums at once makes comparison difficult

Applying several serums on top of one another may seem efficient, but it makes it difficult to determine which product works well or causes irritation. Start with one goal, such as hydration, and only add a second product later. During the day, sunscreen should be part of a routine that includes a brightening serum or other active ingredients.

Which properties should you check?

1. Start by choosing your main skincare goal

Use this overview as a starting point:

  • Dry or dehydrated skin: look for a hydrating serum with glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan or different forms of hyaluronic acid.
  • Sensitive skin or a weakened skin barrier: favour a simple formula and build up usage gradually.
  • Dull-looking skin or an uneven complexion: look for ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C or alpha-arbutin. A product for pigmentation can make the skin appear more even, but it does not replace medical advice for persistent or changing marks.
  • Mature skin and a desire for firmer-looking skin: peptides, adenosine, bakuchiol and hydrating ingredients are often found in an anti-ageing serum. Do not expect a permanent change to your skin structure.
  • Redness: a serum for redness containing soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica, panthenol or allantoin may be a suitable choice. Always test the formula beforehand.

2. Consider the texture and volume

A gel texture usually spreads easily and works well under a day cream. A lotion-like formula can feel comfortable for daily use. Also check the volume: 30 ml is common for a concentrated facial serum, while a 50, 100 or 150 ml bottle may be more appealing if you use the product generously or more frequently.

A pump bottle limits direct contact with the contents. A dropper can provide precise dosing, but requires hygienic use: do not touch the skin with the dropper.

3. Check the directions for use and safety information

Usually apply a serum after cleansing and, if required, using a toner, followed by a moisturiser. Stick to the recommended amount; using more product does not automatically mean better results. With active formulas, a patch test is advisable.

Do not use a product on damaged skin and avoid contact with the eyes. Stop using it if you experience persistent redness, swelling, itching or a burning sensation, and seek medical advice if necessary. With retinol and some brightening ingredients, daily sun protection is particularly important.

Recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and combination of glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide make this a straightforward choice for anyone beginning their hydration and skincare routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists the ingredients and clearly states a dosage of 1 to 2 pumps. This means you do not have to rely on a single marketing claim.

Main benefit & highlights

30 ml, pump bottle, gel texture and, according to the product details, free from alcohol and parabens.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50 ml

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50 ml

Why it suits this profile: This Korean skincare serum has a clear focus on hydration and, according to the product description, contains five types of hyaluronic acid, as well as panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula is not based on just one ingredient: the product information also mentions a fragrance-free composition and additional barrier-supporting ingredients.

Main benefit & highlights

50 ml, fragrance-free according to the product description and stated to be suitable for all skin types.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30 ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Anyone specifically looking for a serum for redness or a formula containing azelaic acid will find a product here with 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, allantoin, niacinamide and ceramide NP.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The directions for use recommend introducing it gradually: start with 1 to 2 applications per week and patch-test first if you have sensitive skin.

Main benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and ceramide NP; suitable for a gradual routine.

Suitable for: Mature skin and an evening routine
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 50 ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 50 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, the formula is intended for all skin types and combines ingredients including bifida ferment lysate, glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, squalane and peptides.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The packaging contains 50 ml and the product information states that it can be used morning and evening. However, always check the current claims and ingredients on the packaging yourself.

Main benefit & highlights

50 ml, hydrating ingredients and a formula containing peptides and ferment ingredients.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Using a facial serum in a simple routine

  1. Cleanse your face with a product your skin tolerates well.
  2. Apply one to a few drops of serum to slightly damp or dry skin, depending on the directions for use.
  3. Gently pat the product in without rubbing hard.
  4. Finish with a moisturiser to help lock in moisture.
  5. Use sunscreen during the day when appropriate for the formula and your routine.

Introduce active ingredients gradually. For example, do not immediately use several products containing vitamin C, acids, retinol or azelaic acid. A simple hyaluronic acid serum is often easier to combine with other steps than a formula containing several powerful active ingredients.

Frequently asked questions about facial serums

When should you apply a facial serum?

You usually apply a serum after cleansing and before a moisturiser. With active formulas, always follow the instructions on the packaging. Some products are suitable for both morning and evening use, while other brands mainly recommend using them in the evening.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

This depends on the volume and dosage. A 30 ml bottle can last from several weeks to several months with daily use. Use the recommended amount and check the open-jar symbol for the period after opening, such as 6M or 12M. Store the serum in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

How much does a good facial serum cost?

The price varies depending on the brand, volume, ingredients and packaging. Therefore, do not compare just the price of the bottle: also consider the amount per millilitre, the recommended dosage and the period after opening. An affordable hydrating serum may be sufficient if hydration is your main goal; for a targeted routine, other ingredients may be more important.