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Choosing a facial serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A facial serum can be a simple way to make your routine more targeted. Yet the choice is vast: from a Korean facial serum with centella asiatica to a hyaluronic acid serum, niacinamide serum or vitamin C serum. Attractive packaging and words like “glow” or “intensive” say little on their own about whether a product suits your skin.

The right choice doesn’t start with the promise on the front, but with the active ingredients, concentration, texture and directions for use.

Common pitfalls when choosing a facial serum

1. Mistaking a long ingredient list for a stronger formula

More ingredients don’t automatically mean a serum is a better match for you. For a serum for sensitive skin, a simple formula can actually be easier to gauge. Focus on the first few ingredients on the list and on actives that are clearly stated with a percentage.

For example: the ANUA serum states 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid. That’s more concrete than a generic claim like “for an even complexion”.

2. Choosing a high concentration without considering tolerance

A serum for dark spots, a serum for blemishes or a serum for redness can contain actives that don’t feel comfortable for everyone. Azelaic acid, vitamin C and retinal often call for a gentle build-up. Start with a small amount and don’t use the product multiple times a day straight away.

ANUA’s product information advises starting the azelaic acid serum with 1 to 2 drops, once or twice a week, and gradually increasing the frequency. That’s more relevant than only looking at the percentage on the front.

3. Confusing hydration with a greasy or heavy texture

A hydrating serum doesn’t have to feel sticky. Ingredients such as glycerin, panthenol and hyaluronic acid can come in a light lotion or gel texture. Also check whether you’ll still need a moisturiser afterwards. A serum for dry skin doesn’t always replace a cream, especially if your skin feels dry or tight.

Which properties should you check?

1. Choose your main skin need first

Use one primary goal as your starting point:

  • Dry or dehydrated skin: look for glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol or beta-glucan.
  • Sensitive skin or visible redness: look for centella asiatica, allantoin, panthenol and a fragrance-free formula.
  • Dull skin and uneven tone: niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C are common ingredients.
  • Blemishes: check whether a serum contains salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc PCA or azelaic acid.
  • Fine lines and texture: peptide serums and products with retinal are often offered for this need.

A product claim remains a brand’s claim. According to a manufacturer’s own product description, an ingredient may contribute to a brighter, smoother or calmer look, but results vary from person to person.

2. Check percentage, size and usage

A percentage makes a formula easier to compare, but it doesn’t tell the whole story of the overall composition. Also pay attention to:

  • the volume, for example 9, 15, 20, 30, 50 or 100 ml;
  • the recommended amount per use;
  • the period after opening, such as 12M;
  • storage advice, especially with vitamin C;
  • whether the product contains fragrance, alcohol or oils if you’re sensitive to them.

According to the product information, the Vitamin C23 serum contains 23% ascorbic acid and must be stored in the fridge. The usage instructions also advise a patch test and daytime sun protection. That makes this type of vitamin C serum less of an obvious choice for beginners than a milder formula.

3. Be mindful of combinations within your routine

Don’t start using multiple strong active serums at the same time. A hyaluronic acid serum can usually be paired easily with a moisturiser. With retinal, high concentrations of vitamin C, azelaic acid or exfoliating ingredients, more caution is needed.

Apply a serum after cleansing and optional toning. Finish with a moisturiser. Use sunscreen during the day when the product information advises it or when your routine includes ingredients that can make skin more sensitive to sunlight.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum Miniature 15ml

iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum Miniature 15ml

Why this suits the profile: The small size makes it practical to try a Korean facial serum first, or to take it with you when travelling. The product description cites a formula with 67% tea tree leaf water and 19.7% centella asiatica extract.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The 15 ml volume limits your spend when you’re not yet sure how your skin will react to tea tree or niacinamide.

Key benefit & highlights

Compact size; according to the product information it contains niacinamide and adenosine.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why this suits the profile: A logical choice if you’re mainly looking for hydration without a heavy feel on the skin. The manufacturer lists hyaluronic acid, white waterlily and a light, fast-absorbing texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information clearly states the goal, texture, volume and usage amount instead of just a general glow promise.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; according to the manufacturer, suitable for all skin types and dermatologically tested.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why this suits the profile: This serum targets users who want to incorporate azelaic acid into a routine for skin that looks unsettled or uneven. The formula contains 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions emphasise a slow build-up, patch testing and sun protection. That helps you avoid using too much product straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; also contains ceramide NP, beta-glucan and sodium hyaluronate.

Looking for more options?

We’ve compiled a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about facial serums

How do you use a facial serum?

First cleanse your face and optionally apply toner. Then use a few drops of serum on the skin. Gently pat it in and finish with a moisturiser. During the day, sunscreen is the final step in your routine. Always check the specific instructions for use, especially with retinal, vitamin C or azelaic acid.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

That depends on the volume and dosage. A 30 ml bottle will often last longer with daily use than a miniature of 9 or 15 ml, but usage varies from person to person. Look at the recommended amount and respect the period after opening. A product like Vitamin C23 has additional storage advice according to the product information and must be used within the indicated period after opening.

Can you use multiple serums at the same time?

Sometimes you can, but don’t combine multiple strong actives without careful thought. A hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid often fits alongside a targeted serum. Use retinal, a high concentration of vitamin C, salicylic acid and azelaic acid preferably in a staggered way or at different times. If irritation occurs, stop the new product and allow your skin to settle.