Joybuy Insights

Choosing a face serum without falling for marketing hype: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum often contains more active ingredients than a regular cream. That makes it an appealing choice if you’re looking for extra hydration, a more even-looking complexion or a simpler skincare routine. At the same time, the range can be confusing. Terms such as Korean skincare serum, glow, firming and anti-ageing serum don’t, on their own, tell you whether a product is right for your skin.

As Joybuy Product Recommendation Officer, I start by looking at information you can check: the ingredients list, concentration, directions for use, packaging and the skin type the product is intended for. That way, you’re less likely to pay mainly for a tempting promise.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage isn’t automatically a better choice

A vitamin C serum with 23% ascorbic acid sounds potent, but a high concentration may be less suitable for sensitive skin. For example, Vitamin C23 Anti aging serum lists 23% vitamin C and recommends a patch test. According to the product information, your skin may become more sensitive to sunlight, and the serum should be stored somewhere cool.

The same applies to niacinamide serum: 10% or 15% isn’t necessary for everyone. Look at the formula as a whole, not just the biggest number on the front.

2. Using too many active ingredients at once

Combining a retinol serum, vitamin C serum, exfoliant and serum for dark spots can make your routine unnecessarily complicated. It also makes it harder to tell which product feels comfortable and which might be causing irritation.

It’s better to start with one clear skin concern. For example, choose a hyaluronic acid serum for hydration, a niacinamide serum for an uneven-looking complexion or a retinol-like product for evening use. Introduce new products gradually.

3. Underestimating texture and storage instructions

A heavy serum may feel uncomfortable under sun cream or make-up during the day. A watery formula, on the other hand, may not feel moisturising enough on dry skin if you don’t apply a moisturiser over it.

Pay attention to storage, too. Vitamin C23 says to store it in the fridge and use it within two months of opening to preserve the active ingredients. That’s a practical commitment to consider as part of your daily routine.

What should you look for when choosing?

1. Start with your main skin concern

Use the ingredients list as your starting point:

  • Serum for dry skin: look for ingredients such as glycerine, panthenol, ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
  • Hydrating serum: several forms of hyaluronic acid, glycerine and beta-glucan may suit dehydrated skin.
  • Serum for dark spots: look for ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide or vitamin C. Don’t expect an immediate change, and use sun protection during the day.
  • Serum for acne: check whether the formula contains ingredients such as salicylic acid, niacinamide or propolis. A cosmetic serum isn’t a substitute for treatment of persistent skin problems.
  • Anti-ageing serum: peptides, adenosine, retinal or retinol are often found in this category. The product information and how well your skin tolerates it matter more than the term ‘anti-ageing’.
  • Serum for sensitive skin: a fragrance-free formula with a short, easy-to-understand ingredients list may be a more practical choice. Test it on a small area of skin first.

2. Check the concentration and the order of the ingredients

Ingredients are generally listed in descending order, down to those used in small amounts. A product with a long list of botanical extracts isn’t automatically more effective. Also check whether the active ingredient is listed with a specific percentage.

For example, Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum lists 2% alpha-arbutin, alongside rice water, glycerine and niacinamide. This makes the focus of the formula clear, without requiring you to take a general promise as a guaranteed result.

3. Check how to use it, the packaging and any warnings

A pump bottle can be convenient and hygienic; a dropper needs careful handling so you don’t touch your skin with it. Also check:

  • the volume, for example 15, 20, 30, 50 or 150 ml;
  • the recommended amount and when to use it;
  • the expiry date and period after opening;
  • warnings about the eyes, damaged skin and sunlight;
  • whether it contains fragrance or alcohol, if you’d rather avoid those ingredients;
  • the EU responsible person details on the packaging of imported cosmetics.

A face serum is usually applied after cleansing and, if you use one, toner, followed by a moisturiser. During the day, active ingredients should generally be paired with sun cream offering suitable protection.

Recommended face serums for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum Ginseng Snail Mucin 30 ml

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward hydrating serum for anyone looking to start a Korean skincare routine without combining several active products straight away.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists 3% snail mucin filtrate, ginseng root water and a gel texture. It doesn’t present a high concentration of active ingredients as a one-size-fits-all solution.

Key benefits and highlights

30 ml, pump bottle, glycerine, niacinamide and several forms of hyaluronic acid in the ingredients list.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Cosrx The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 ml

The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 ml

Why it suits this profile: A generous-sized booster for anyone looking for one versatile step before moisturiser and who values a light, non-sticky texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description mentions six types of peptides, but doesn’t promise a guaranteed change to your skin. You can check the ingredients and where it fits into your routine in advance.

Key benefits and highlights

150 ml, six peptide variants, niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate, according to the listed ingredients.

Suitable for: Targeted use and experienced users
celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster 15 ml

celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster 15 ml

Why it suits this profile: Aimed at anyone who wants to consciously add a retinal product to their evening routine and is prepared to build up use gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions recommend using it every other evening for the first two weeks. They also specifically mention sun protection, using small amounts and avoiding the eye area.

Key benefits and highlights

15 ml, 0,1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000 according to the product description; designed for night-time use only.

Suitable for: Sensitive skin and fans of simple routines
Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50 ml

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50 ml

Why it suits this profile: A sensible choice if your main aim is to add hydration and you prefer to avoid fragrance in your daily routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information describes a fragrance-free formula with five types of hyaluronic acid. Its main purpose is clear: hydration, rather than pursuing several intensive goals at once.

Key benefits and highlights

50 ml, five forms of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan, according to the product description.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety requirements.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face, then apply a small amount of serum. Gently pat it into your skin and finish with a moisturiser. Use an active serum according to its specific instructions. Retinal and retinol are generally for evening use; daily sun protection is important when using vitamin C and retinoids.

How long does a face serum last?

It varies from product to product. Check the expiry date and period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. Storage and how quickly you use the product can be especially important for active formulas. For example, Vitamin C23 says to refrigerate it and use it within two months of opening.

How much does a good face serum cost?

The price depends on the size, brand, packaging and active ingredients. Compare the price per millilitre and check that the formula suits your skin’s needs. A larger bottle is only better value if you’ll use the product before it expires.