Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted step in your skincare routine. However, it is unwise to rely solely on terms such as “glow”, “lifting” or “intensive care”. The right choice mainly depends on your skin type, the ingredients, the texture and how you plan to use the product.

For dry skin, for example, look for a hydrating serum containing glycerine, panthenol or hyaluronic acid. If you have redness or sensitive skin, a simple formula and fragrance-free composition are often more important than a long ingredients list. If you want to tackle pigmentation or blemishes, you should also consider gradually introducing the product and using daily sun protection.

Three pitfalls to avoid when buying a serum

1. A higher percentage is not automatically more suitable

A serum containing 10% niacinamide or 10% azelaic acid may sound highly targeted, but a higher concentration can be less comfortable for some skin types. This is particularly true for sensitive skin or a weakened skin barrier, where introducing the product gradually is advisable. Start with a small amount and do not use it alongside several other active ingredients straight away.

2. Marketing claims are sometimes presented as results

Words such as “repair”, “collagen stimulation” or “reduces pigmentation” are not a guarantee of personal results. A brand’s own research or the product description may support certain claims, but your skin may react differently. Therefore, check the ingredients list, directions for use and warnings.

A cosmetic serum is not a substitute for medical treatment. If you have persistent acne, severe irritation or changes in pigmentation, advice from a GP or dermatologist is more appropriate.

3. The wrong texture ends up sitting unused

A rich serum can feel pleasant on dry skin, but may feel heavy on oily or combination skin. A watery formula is often better suited for use under sun cream or make-up. Also pay attention to the packaging: a pump bottle or well-sealed bottle makes it easier to dispense the right amount and helps limit unnecessary contact with air and hands.

Which specifications should you check?

Ingredients suited to your goal

Use your search term as a starting point, but always check the full INCI list afterwards.

• Hydration: look for glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, sodium hyaluronate or several forms of hyaluronic acid. A hyaluronic acid serum is particularly appealing when tightness or dryness is your main concern.
• Sensitive skin and redness: choosing a fragrance-free formula can be a practical option. Centella asiatica, panthenol and allantoin are often found in a serum for sensitive skin or a serum for redness.
• Pigmentation and uneven skin tone: niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and azelaic acid are often used in products designed for this purpose. Do check the instructions for gradually introducing the product and combine it with sun cream during the day.
• Blemishes: look for niacinamide, azelaic acid or salicylic acid. An acne serum may support the skin, but it is not a medicine.
• Fine lines: hydrating ingredients, peptides and adenosine are found in an anti-ageing serum or a serum for fine lines. Do not expect a guaranteed or permanent change.

A Korean skincare serum formula often contains several plant extracts and active ingredients. That can be appealing, but a longer INCI list is not automatically better. Check that the formula suits your skin’s tolerance and your routine.

Concentration, volume and frequency of use

Do not compare only the price of a bottle; consider the volume as well. Many serums contain 30 ml, while some ampoules or essences come in a larger size. Also check the recommended number of drops or pumps. A product used generously twice a day will run out faster than a serum where one or two drops are sufficient.

With active formulas, frequency of use is important. The product information for some azelaic acid serums recommends starting once or twice a week. This is a practical indication that you should not increase usage too quickly.

Packaging and safety information

Check that the product is intended for use on the face and that the expiry or PAO information is shown on the packaging. Test a new serum on a small area of skin first, particularly if you have sensitive skin. Stop using it if you experience stinging, swelling, itching or noticeable redness. Avoid contact with the eyes and do not apply an active formula to damaged skin.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for dry, normal or combination skin that responds well to a gel texture and several hydrating ingredients.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description mentions a pump bottle and a dose of one to two pumps, making it easier to avoid applying too much.

Main benefit & advantages

According to the ingredients list, it contains glycerine, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate and several extracts; the formula is stated to be free from alcohol and parabens.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Designed for shoppers specifically looking for a serum for pigmentation, post-acne marks or an uneven skin tone.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The percentages of niacinamide and tranexamic acid are clearly stated in the product name. This makes comparison more transparent than a general claim such as “brightening”.

Main benefit & advantages

According to the product information, it contains 10% niacinamide, 4% tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and several forms of hyaluronic acid.

How to use a face serum in practice

1. Cleanse your face and use toner if desired.
2. Apply one to three drops or the stated amount.
3. Gently pat the product into your skin rather than rubbing vigorously.
4. Finish with a moisturiser, particularly when using a serum for dry skin.
5. Use a broad-spectrum sun cream during the day, especially with formulas for pigmentation or those containing exfoliating ingredients.
6. Introduce one new active product at a time. This makes it easier to identify which formulas your skin does or does not tolerate.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

When should you apply face serum?

You will usually apply serum after cleansing and before moisturiser. A few drops are generally enough. Always follow the dosage on the label, as texture and concentration vary from product to product.

How long does serum last after opening?

Shelf life varies by product. Check the expiry date and the symbol showing the period after opening, such as 12M. Store the serum somewhere cool and dry, away from direct sunlight. Close the packaging securely after each use.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Look for a simple, fragrance-free formula containing ingredients such as panthenol, beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid or centella asiatica. Test a small amount first. A product containing azelaic acid, niacinamide or other active ingredients may be suitable, but introduce it gradually and stop using it if irritation occurs.