Joybuy Insights

Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful step between cleansing and moisturising. The choice is vast, though: from niacinamide and vitamin C serums to hydrating serums, retinol serums and Korean skincare ampoules. An eye-catching package or promise does not automatically mean a product is right for your skin.

As a Joybuy Product Recommendation Officer, I therefore look first at the formula, concentration, instructions and skin compatibility. This helps you avoid buying a serum that is too strong, does not fit into your routine or ends up unused in the bathroom after a few weeks.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Assuming a higher percentage means better results

A higher concentration may sound appealing, but it can also cause tightness, redness or irritation more quickly. This is particularly true of active ingredients such as retinol, retinal, azelaic acid, vitamin C and niacinamide. So do not just look at the percentage; also consider the other ingredients and the recommended process for building up use.

2. Combining too many active ingredients at once

A serum for pigmentation, a blemish serum and a serum for fine lines often contain different active ingredients. If you use several powerful products at the same time, it becomes difficult to work out which product your skin tolerates well. It is better to start with one targeted serum and only add a second formula later.

Pay attention to combinations, too. According to The Ordinary’s product information, niacinamide can affect the stability of certain forms of vitamin C. Alternate these products in line with the advice on the label, rather than using them together in the same routine without checking first.

3. Not checking marketing claims on the packaging

Terms such as ‘glow’, ‘barrier’ and ‘intense hydration’ are broad. Check the full ingredients list, contents, shelf life and recommended frequency of use. Claims about a product’s effects should not make you forget that a cosmetic product is not a medical treatment. If you have persistent skin concerns, advice from a doctor or skincare professional is more appropriate.

Which specifications are important?

1. Choose the active ingredient based on your goal

  • Hydration: look for hyaluronic acid, glycerine, panthenol or sodium hyaluronate. A hydrating serum is often a good choice for dry or dehydrated skin.
  • Uneven skin tone and visible pigmentation: alpha-arbutin, niacinamide or a vitamin C derivative are commonly used ingredients. A serum for pigmentation is not a substitute for sunscreen.
  • Blemishes and visible pores: niacinamide, NAG or azelaic acid may suit oily, combination or blemish-prone skin. However, check that the formula is suitable for your level of sensitivity.
  • Fine lines and texture: retinol, retinal and certain peptides are popular choices. These products usually require a gentle introduction and evening use.
  • Sensitive skin: a simple centella ampoule or a formula with soothing ingredients may be easier to manage than a serum containing several strong actives.

2. Check the concentration and texture

A watery formula generally absorbs quickly and is easy to use under a cream. An oily or richer texture may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but could feel heavier on oily skin. The products below vary considerably in size, from 9 ml for a targeted introduction to 100 ml for regular use.

3. Consider use, shelf life and safety

Apply a serum after cleansing and before moisturiser in most cases. Use sun protection during the day when advised in the product information, particularly with formulas containing retinol, retinal, vitamin C or ingredients intended to even out the complexion.

Always check the INCI list, expiry date and period after opening on the packaging. Carry out a patch test before first use. Avoid contact with the eyes and do not use a product on damaged or irritated skin. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, follow the warning on the label for retinol and retinal products and seek medical advice if in doubt.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA 60ml

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA 60ml

Why it suits this profile: The water-based formula, 60 ml size and concise ingredients list make this face serum easy to understand for anyone looking for a targeted first step towards a more even complexion.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists alpha-arbutin 2% and sodium hyaluronate separately, making it clearer why you are choosing the product rather than relying solely on a general glow promise.

Key benefit & highlights

60 ml, water-based and described as suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate 75 ml

Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate 75 ml

Why it suits this profile: The generous 75 ml size is ideal for anyone looking for a more luxurious daily serum step and who values a well-known brand and comprehensive product presentation.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The packaging states the 75 ml size, recommends use in the morning and evening, and provides specific storage and safety instructions. You should also check the ingredients and shelf life on the packaging you receive.

Key benefit & highlights

75 ml and a lightweight formula according to the product description; suitable for use on the face and neck.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: This ampoule is intended for users specifically looking for azelaic acid, visible blemishes, an uneven complexion or skin that quickly appears unsettled.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information states that it contains 10% azelaic acid, has a niacinamide-free formula and includes a gradual introduction schedule to help your skin adjust. This makes its purpose and use clearer.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid, centella asiatica and a stated gradual introduction from every-other-day use.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety requirements.

How to use a face serum in your routine

  1. Cleanse your face and gently pat the skin dry.
  2. Apply a few drops of serum, unless the label specifies a different amount.
  3. Follow with a moisturiser to complete your routine.
  4. Apply sun protection during the day when advised.
  5. Introduce one new product at a time and do not use a retinol or retinal serum every day to begin with.

For example, a centella ampoule can be a simple hydrating step. With a vitamin C or niacinamide serum, it is sensible to check which other actives are already part of your routine. If you have sensitive skin, choose a lower frequency of use and stop if irritation persists.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

When should you apply serum?

A face serum is generally used after cleansing and, if applicable, toner, but before moisturiser. Always follow the product’s specific instructions. Some retinol and retinal formulas are intended for evening use only.

How long does face serum last?

The exact shelf life is stated on the packaging. Also check the period after opening, such as 6M or 12M. Store the serum in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, with the cap tightly closed. A change in smell, colour or texture is a reason to stop using the product.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Look for a concise ingredients list and a formula without ingredients you have not tolerated well in the past. A centella ampoule or hydrating serum can be a gentle place to start. With retinol, retinal, azelaic acid and highly concentrated niacinamide, a patch test and gradual introduction are particularly important.