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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula for hydration, firmness or hair care

A face serum often contains more concentrated ingredients than a cream, making it well suited to a targeted skincare routine. However, an expensive serum is not automatically right for your skin. Marketing terms such as “lifting”, “collagen boost” and “anti-ageing” only mean something when you also consider the ingredients, directions for use and packaging.

The following pitfalls are common:

  • An eye-catching claim without a clear concentration. A product may mention collagen, NAD+ or peptides without always stating how much of each it contains.
  • Confusing a temporarily smoothing finish with long-lasting effects. Glycerine, silicones and film-forming ingredients can make the skin feel smoother immediately. This is a cosmetic effect and does not prove that wrinkles are being structurally reduced.
  • Failing to take your skin type into account. A rich serum may feel pleasant on dry or mature skin but less comfortable on oily skin. Conversely, a lightweight formula may not be sufficient if your skin feels tight.
  • Mixing up face and hair serums. A hair serum for hair loss or hair growth is intended for the scalp, not the face.

What should you look for in a face serum?

1. Choose the main purpose: hydration, firmness or evenness

Start with one clear need. For dry skin, glycerine, hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid are sensible ingredients to consider. A hyaluronic acid serum mainly helps the skin retain moisture at its surface and can temporarily make it feel plumper.

If your main aim is to care for looser or mature skin, look for a collagen serum, peptide serum, lifting serum or firming serum. However, according to a brand’s own research or product information, such ingredients may contribute to a particular cosmetic effect, but these brand claims should not be presented as a guaranteed result.

The term anti-ageing serum is broad. Therefore, check whether the product description mentions specific ingredients such as peptides, niacinamide, antioxidants or moisturising substances.

2. Check the ingredients list and texture

If water or aqua appears at the top of the list, the formula often has a water-based foundation. Glycerine, propanediol and butylene glycol are commonly used humectants. Oils, butters and silicones can make the formula richer or smoother.

A lightweight gel or essence is usually practical underneath sunscreen and make-up. An oily or creamy formula may be better suited to dry skin, particularly in the evening. Sensitive skin? Check for fragrance, essential oils and preservatives and, if in doubt, carry out a small patch test first.

A serum does not replace sunscreen. A product with SPF 0, for example, offers no sun protection. During the day, use a separate product with a suitable UV protection factor.

3. Consider the volume, shelf life and usage

Most serums in this selection contain between 20 and 50 ml. A small bottle is not necessarily poor value, as a few drops per application may be enough. Above all, compare the volume with the recommended usage.

Always check the expiry information on the packaging. Several products feature a 12M PAO symbol, meaning that the product is intended for use for twelve months after opening. Store your serum somewhere cool and dry, close the packaging securely and keep it out of direct sunlight.

A face serum is generally applied after cleansing and, if required, toning, but before applying a cream. Do not combine several powerful serums straight away. This makes it easier to see which formula works well for you.

Recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Cedia Four Seasons Marine Collagen Serum 30 ml

Cedia Four Seasons Marine Collagen Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The 30 ml bottle and the recommended two to three drops per application make this an accessible starting point for anyone wanting to try a collagen serum.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information mentions marine collagen, amino acids, aloe vera and glycerine, rather than relying solely on a general anti-ageing claim.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml volume; intended for the face and neck; lightweight essence texture according to the product description.

Suitable for: Buyers looking for premium quality
Martiderm SHOT COLLAGEN LIFT 20 ml

Martiderm SHOT COLLAGEN LIFT 20 ml

Why it suits this profile: Anyone looking for a compact, targeted firming serum gets a formula with 1% Biotech Collagen and Lupeol, according to MartiDerm’s product information.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product page states a specific collagen concentration and a volume of 20 ml. Check the full ingredients list on the packaging.

Key benefit & advantages

Lightweight texture; quick absorption according to the manufacturer; lasts for 12 months after opening according to the product information.

Suitable for: Specific needs & intensive users
Freshly Cosmetics Hair Growth & Density Treatment 50 ml

Freshly Cosmetics Hair Growth & Density Treatment (50 ml)

Why it suits this profile: This is not a face serum but a lotion for the scalp and hair. It is suitable for users specifically looking for a hair serum for hair loss or a hair growth serum.

How this product avoids the pitfall

Its application is clearly focused on the hair and scalp. According to Freshly Cosmetics’ own research, results are claimed after different periods of use; this is not a guarantee for every user.

Key benefit & advantages

50 ml volume; lotion application; product information states that the formula is free from fragrance, silicones, sulphates and parabens.

Suitable for: Hydration-focused users
Collistar Attivi Puri Hyaluronic Acid Polyglutamic Acid 30 ml

Collistar Attivi Puri Hyaluronic Acid + Polyglutamic Acid 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The combination of hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid is well suited to dry, tight-feeling or tired-looking skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The main purpose and the two active ingredients mentioned are clearly stated in the product name and description.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml volume; suitable for all skin types according to the product information; use in the morning and evening.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face first. Then apply a few drops to your face and neck and gently massage or pat the product in. Finish with a moisturiser. Use sun protection during the day. Always follow the specific instructions on the label.

How long does a serum last after opening?

This varies from product to product. If there is a 12M symbol on the packaging, the serum is intended for use for twelve months after opening. Make a note of the opening date and look out for changes in scent, colour or texture. If in doubt, check the packaging.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but it is best to start with one serum. A hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid is generally easy to combine with a cream. With a peptide serum, NAD+ serum or formula containing several active ingredients, it is wiser to introduce products gradually. Stop using the product if irritation occurs and check the ingredients for possible allergens.