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Choosing a face serum: practical guide to skin type, ingredients and use

A face serum can be a useful addition to your daily routine, but the wide range of options can make choosing difficult. Are you looking for a hydrating serum, a serum for redness or an anti-ageing serum? You will quickly come across terms such as “glow”, “intensive repair” and “instant results”. These words alone reveal little about the formula.

The most important question is therefore not which serum makes the biggest promises, but which ingredients, concentrations and usage instructions suit your skin and routine.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Mistaking a high concentration for a better choice

A highly concentrated product may be appealing to experienced users, but it is not automatically suitable for everyone. A vitamin C serum with 23% ascorbic acid, a retinol product or a 10% azelaic acid serum, for example, requires a cautious introduction. For sensitive or inexperienced skin, a milder serum may be more practical.

2. Using too many active ingredients at once

Niacinamide, acids, retinal, retinol and vitamin C each have their own place in a routine. Starting several strong formulas at the same time makes it difficult to determine which product your skin does or does not tolerate. It is better to begin with one new serum and use it according to the instructions on the packaging.

3. Forgetting SPF and shelf life

Certain active ingredients can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Product information for retinal, retinol, azelaic acid and vitamin C serums, among others, therefore recommends using sun protection during the day. Also check the shelf life. According to the product information, for example, a formula with a high concentration of vitamin C may need to be stored in the fridge and may have a limited shelf life after opening.

What should you look for when buying a face serum?

1. Start by choosing according to your skin’s needs

Use your serum as an addition to a simple basic routine with cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection during the day.

  • Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramides and squalane. A hydrating serum or a centella ampoule may be suitable.
  • Sensitive skin or visible redness: choose a short, straightforward ingredients list and look for panthenol, allantoin, centella asiatica and ceramides. Avoid high concentrations of active ingredients when starting out.
  • Oily or blemish-prone skin: a lightweight gel texture with niacinamide, zinc PCA or azelaic acid can be a practical choice. Do check that the formula does not cause irritation.
  • Pigmentation and an uneven complexion: look for niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C. These ingredients do not automatically create an even complexion; results vary from person to person.
  • Fine lines and mature skin: retinal, retinol, peptides and hydrating ingredients are often chosen for a serum for fine lines. Introduce retinoids gradually.

2. Check both the active ingredient and its concentration

The ingredients list is more important than the front of the packaging. A niacinamide serum, for example, may contain 4%, 10% or an unspecified amount. Some products clearly state the concentration, such as ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum and Vitamin C23.

Also consider the product type. An ampoule is generally a serum-like, concentrated step, but its name does not indicate exactly how strong its effects are. Always check the full ingredients list, volume and usage instructions.

3. Match the texture and size to your routine

A thin gel or watery ampoule often works well underneath moisturiser and sun cream. A richer formula may be better suited to dry skin or an evening routine. A mini size, such as 15 ml, is useful if you want to try whether a Korean skincare serum suits you. Also check whether the product is intended for the whole face, specific areas only or the eye contour.

If you have sensitive skin, carry out a patch test first. Stop using the product if irritation persists and follow the safety information on the packaging. Cosmetics are not a substitute for medical advice.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55 ml

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: The product description mentions centella asiatica extract and a hydrating, lightweight application. This makes it a straightforward first step for anyone who does not yet want to combine strong active ingredients.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula is not presented as a strong exfoliant or retinoid. This makes it easier to add one new step to your routine at a time.

Key benefit & highlights

55 ml contents; centella asiatica is listed as the main ingredient in the product description.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Cosrx The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 Ml

The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 Ml

Why it suits this profile: Anyone wanting to target several skin concerns at once gets, according to the product description, a booster with six types of peptides, niacinamide, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients and use after toner are clearly stated. This helps you avoid confusing the step with an exfoliant or retinoid.

Key benefit & highlights

150 ml contents; six types of peptides according to the product information.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product description, this is a targeted choice for experienced users looking for a retinal serum with 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The usage instructions recommend starting every other evening, using a small amount and applying it only in the evening. This prevents you from increasing usage too quickly.

Key benefit & highlights

0.1% pure retinal; 15 ml size for targeted use.

Suitable for: Targeted complexion care
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this serum contains 68.6% rice bran water, 2% alpha-arbutin and niacinamide. It is suitable for anyone mainly looking for a serum to promote an even complexion.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists specific ingredients and concentrations. This allows you to compare the product based on its composition rather than claims about glow alone.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml contents; 2% alpha-arbutin according to the product information.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use face serum in a routine?

Cleanse your face, use toner if desired and then apply a few drops of serum. Finish with moisturiser. Use sun protection during the day when recommended in the product information, especially when using vitamin C, retinal, retinol or azelaic acid. Do not immediately combine several strong active products.

How long does serum last after opening?

This varies depending on the formula. Check the packaging for the shelf life and the period-after-opening symbol, such as 12M. Store the product according to the instructions. A vitamin C serum with a high concentration may be particularly sensitive to light, heat and air.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Start with a simple formula containing ingredients such as glycerine, panthenol, centella or ceramides. Test a small amount on a limited area of skin first. Ideally, do not introduce several new products at once, and stop using the product if persistent redness, itching or a burning sensation occurs.