Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. But with dozens of options to choose from, finding the right one isn’t always easy. A serum for dark spots contains different active ingredients from a hydrating serum for dehydrated skin. A peptide serum or anti-ageing serum won’t necessarily suit every routine either.

Look out for these common pitfalls:

• Marketing language without clear percentages: terms such as “intensive”, “glow” and “lifting” don’t tell you much if the ingredients and their concentrations aren’t listed.
• Using too many active ingredients at once: combining a niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum and exfoliating product can leave your skin feeling uncomfortable, especially if it’s sensitive.
• Overlooking texture and packaging: a sticky formula may end up unused. A pump bottle or sealed dispenser can also be more practical than a pipette if you want to measure out a precise amount each day.

What should you check before buying?

1. Check the active ingredients

The ingredients list, also known as the INCI list, gives you more to go on than a marketing promise. The order usually indicates which ingredients appear in relatively higher amounts in the formula. Also check whether the product page lists a percentage.

• Niacinamide: often used in serums for a more even-looking complexion and in formulas for dull or blemish-prone-looking skin. A higher percentage isn’t automatically a better choice.
• Tranexamic acid and alpha-arbutin: often found in serums for dark spots. Treat claims about fading spots as information provided by the brand; results may vary from one person to another.
• Peptides: a peptide serum is designed to leave the skin’s surface looking smoother and firmer. Some brands say their peptides support the appearance of skin elasticity, but this doesn’t guarantee that wrinkles will be reduced.
• Hyaluronic acid, glycerin and panthenol: commonly used humectant ingredients in hydrating serums.
• Vitamin C: may be included in a vitamin C serum to help give your complexion a more radiant appearance. Check which form of vitamin C is used, and follow the storage and usage instructions.

2. Match the serum to your skin type and routine

A light, fast-absorbing texture can feel comfortable on oily or combination skin. A richer formula containing glycerin, oils or ceramides may be better suited to dry skin. If your skin is sensitive, it’s wise to patch test and introduce the product gradually.

Use a serum after cleansing and, if you use one, after toner. Follow with a moisturiser. Apply sun protection during the day, especially if your routine includes ingredients that may make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. Always follow the instructions on the packaging.

3. Check the size, shelf life and claims

Don’t just compare prices; check the size too. A 20, 30, 40 or 50 ml bottle will affect the cost per use. Check the shelf life of the unopened product and how long it can be used after opening, often shown as 12M, for example. A fragrance-free formula isn’t necessarily hypoallergenic, so check these claims separately.

Cosmetics sold in the EU must comply with the applicable European cosmetic regulations. That doesn’t mean every formula will suit everyone. Check the current ingredients list on the packaging, especially if you have allergies, are pregnant or have reactive skin. Stop using the product if irritation persists, and ask a doctor or pharmacist for advice if needed.

Our recommendations for different user profiles

Suitable for: Beginners on a budget

ABIB Glutathiosome Dark Spot Vita Drop Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: Its light texture and 50 ml size make this an accessible choice if you’re trying a serum for dark spots for the first time. According to the product description, the white microbeads are visible and dissolve as you apply the serum.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description highlights specific features: glutathione microbeads, a light formula and suitability for different skin types. Check the current INCI list before use.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml; fast-absorbing texture according to the product information; designed to promote a more even-looking complexion.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

ANTI-WRINKLE peptide plump serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This formula is designed for daily use in the morning and evening. According to the product details, it’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The dispenser helps you measure out a consistent amount.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list includes glycerin, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and Pentapeptide-84. This makes it clearer what the plumping and hydrating claims are based on.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml dispenser; light texture according to the product description; contains peptides and different forms of hyaluronic acid.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

Why it suits this profile: If you like comparing ingredients carefully, this Korean skincare serum lists 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid. According to the product details, the formula is fragrance-free, alcohol-free and designed for uneven-looking skin tone.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The two percentages listed make it easier to compare with formulas that promise only “brightening”. If you have sensitive skin, it’s still best to introduce the serum gradually.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml pump bottle; 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid according to the product information; fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product specifications.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face and apply a small amount of serum to dry or slightly damp skin, depending on the instructions. Follow with a moisturiser. If you’re using a concentrated product, start by applying it a few times a week and increase this only if your skin tolerates it well.

How long does a serum last?

It depends on the size and how much you use. A 30 ml bottle may run out sooner than a 50 or 150 ml one, especially if you apply the product to your face, neck and décolletage. Also check how long the serum can be used after opening, and store it according to the instructions on the label.

Which serum is right for dark spots?

Look for ingredients such as niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin or vitamin C derivatives. Choose one targeted product and give your routine time to work. Product descriptions say that formulas like these may help create a more even-looking complexion, but cosmetic results vary from person to person. Use sun protection during the day and avoid layering several potent active products.