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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a practical addition to your daily routine, but the wide choice can make it difficult to know where to start. A serum for hyperpigmentation contains different ingredients from a hydrating serum for dry skin. Sensitive skin also calls for a different approach from enlarged pores or a dull complexion.

Pay close attention to the product information, rather than relying solely on words such as ‘glow’, ‘lifting’ or ‘pore refining’. Read on to discover common pitfalls, which details to check and which types of product may suit different skin concerns.

Three pitfalls to avoid when buying a serum

1. A long ingredients list doesn’t tell you everything

A product containing lots of active ingredients isn’t automatically right for your skin. A niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum or serum with tranexamic acid may be worth considering for an uneven skin tone, but using several potent formulas at once can feel uncomfortable.

Check the first ingredients on the INCI list and see whether the formula contains fragrance, alcohol or exfoliating ingredients. If you have sensitive skin, a short, straightforward formula is often easier to introduce gradually.

2. Marketing claims can sometimes be taken too literally

Terms such as ‘clinically proven’, ‘glass skin’ or ‘repairs the skin barrier’ should always be considered in context. A brand’s own research may have measured certain results after a specific period of use, but that doesn’t guarantee the same experience for everyone.

For example, celimax’s product information refers to results from ten clinical studies. This is information from the brand about its product; it isn’t a general guarantee that pores will look visibly smaller for every user. Treat claims as additional information and compare them with details you can check, such as concentration, texture and directions for use.

3. The wrong texture can make you less likely to use it regularly

A rich serum may feel good on dry skin, but heavy on oily or combination skin. A watery centella ampoule may be a better fit if you’re looking for a lightweight layer. Check the size too: 30 ml is a common size for a serum, while a 100 ml product may be more convenient if you use it daily and apply it generously.

Which details should you check?

Ingredients to suit your skin concern

  • Hydration: look for glycerin, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate or other forms of hyaluronic acid. A hyaluronic acid serum mainly helps the skin’s surface retain moisture.
  • Dull complexion and dark spots: alpha-arbutin, niacinamide, vitamin C and tranexamic acid are often found in a serum for dark spots. Don’t expect an immediate change, and use sun protection during the day.
  • Sensitive skin: centella asiatica, allantoin and panthenol are commonly used soothing ingredients. Check for fragrance and essential oils too.
  • Enlarged pores and blemish-prone skin: niacinamide, salicylic acid or azelaic acid are found in formulas for these concerns. Introduce active ingredients gradually, especially if your skin reacts easily.
  • Firmness and mature skin: peptides, adenosine and hydrating ingredients are often used in an anti-ageing serum. The presence of an ingredient doesn’t automatically mean it has a medical or long-term effect.

Concentration and how often to use it

A higher percentage isn’t always more practical. For example, one ANUA product contains 10% azelaic acid, and the product information recommends starting with once or twice a week. This is a clear sign to introduce the formula gradually.

It’s also sensible not to start using several products with high concentrations at the same time, even if they’re niacinamide serums. Test a new product on a small area of skin first, and stop using it if redness, itching or irritation persists.

Packaging, shelf life and hygiene

A pump bottle limits contact with the contents. If your serum comes with a pipette, make sure it doesn’t touch your skin. Check the expiry date on the packaging and look for the period after opening, such as 6M or 12M. Store your serum in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, unless the manufacturer gives different instructions.

Product picks for different skin profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The lightweight lotion texture is designed for daily use, and the product information states that it’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula is clearly focused on hydration rather than a long list of multiple potent actives. If you have sensitive skin, do check the listed fragrance and limonene.

Key benefits and features

Contains glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and white water lily. The 30 ml formula is described as fast-absorbing.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for a premium product
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: This Korean face serum is specifically designed for dull-looking skin and pigmentation spots. According to the product specifications, it’s free from fragrance and alcohol.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists a specific concentration of 2% alpha-arbutin. This makes it easier to compare your options than relying on a general ‘brightening’ claim.

Key benefits and features

Contains rice bran water, alpha-arbutin, niacinamide and panthenol. The product information recommends using it in the evening, followed by a moisturiser.

Suitable for: Targeted use and intensive users
ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The combination of 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid targets uneven skin tone, pigmentation spots and marks left behind by blemishes.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The percentages are stated, so you don’t have to rely on the wording on the packaging alone. Introduce it gradually and use sun protection during the day.

Key benefits and features

Also contains alpha-arbutin, several forms of hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica. The pump bottle makes it easy to dispense.

Suitable for: Minimalist routines for sensitive skin
Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The product information describes a watery texture with centella asiatica as the main ingredient. This could suit you if you prefer fewer layers and a lightweight finish.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list is shorter than those of many combined brightening serums. Still, check the full packaging and test a small amount first.

Key benefits and features

According to the product description, it contains 100% centella asiatica extract. This 30 ml ampoule has a thin, non-sticky texture.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a full, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety regulations.

How to use a face serum in your routine

  1. Cleanse your face and gently pat your skin dry.
  2. Apply a few drops, unless the packaging gives a different dosage.
  3. Apply the serum before your moisturiser.
  4. Use sun protection during the day, especially with a serum for hyperpigmentation or a vitamin C serum.
  5. Introduce only one new active product at a time. This makes it easier to identify what your skin may be reacting to.

A serum doesn’t replace a moisturiser or sun cream. If you have dry skin, you can pair a hydrating serum with a nourishing cream to seal in moisture. If you have oily skin, a lightweight gel or lotion texture may feel more comfortable.

Frequently asked questions

When should you apply a face serum?

Usually after cleansing and, if you use one, toner, but before moisturiser. Always follow the directions for the specific product. Some formulas are designed for morning and evening use, while others recommend starting with evening use only.

How long does a serum last?

It depends on the amount in the bottle, how much you use and how often you apply it. A 30 ml bottle may last from a few weeks to several months with daily use. Also check how long it can be kept after opening; this may be shown on the packaging as 6M or 12M.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but don’t start by combining several potent active ingredients. Begin with one formula and see how your skin responds. A simple hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid can often be used alongside another serum, but always check the ingredients and instructions.