Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily routine, but there is a huge range to choose from. A Korean serum with centella, a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid or a serum for pigmentation each calls for a different choice. Attractive packaging or a long ingredients list says little on its own about whether a product is suitable for your skin.

Pay particular attention to three common pitfalls:

• Confusing a high percentage with better results. 10% niacinamide or azelaic acid may sound convincing, but could be too intense for some users. Your skin type, frequency of use and the rest of your routine all matter.
• Treating marketing claims as guarantees. Words such as “glow”, “lifting” and “repair” often describe a brand’s positioning. They do not promise that every user will see the same effect.
• Skipping the ingredients list. A serum for sensitive skin may still contain ingredients that you do not tolerate well. Before ordering, check for fragrance, alcohol, retinol, acids and known allergens.

Which properties should you check?

1. Choose the active ingredient based on your goal

Start with one clear skin concern. This helps prevent you from using several powerful serums at the same time.

• Hydration: a hyaluronic acid serum, glycerine, panthenol or beta-glucan may suit tight-feeling or dry skin.
• Blemishes and visible sebum: niacinamide, zinc or azelaic acid are often found in a serum for spots. Also check whether the formula is fragrance-free and can be introduced gradually.
• Uneven skin tone: a serum for pigmentation may contain alpha-arbutin, vitamin C, tranexamic acid or niacinamide, for example. According to a brand’s own research, such ingredients may help improve the appearance of blemishes, but cosmetic results vary from person to person.
• Fine lines and dull skin: an anti-ageing serum may contain retinol, retinal, peptides or antioxidants. Retinol and retinal require extra care and daily sun protection.
• Redness or a vulnerable-feeling skin barrier: centella asiatica, also known as cica, is often found in a centella ampoule or serum for sensitive skin. However, check the full INCI list; “natural” does not automatically mean suitable for everyone.

2. Check the concentration, texture and usage instructions

A watery formula generally absorbs quickly and works well under a cream. An oily or gel-based formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but could roll under make-up. If in doubt, test a small amount first.

Also pay attention to the usage instructions. Start with one new serum at a time and use active ingredients less frequently than the maximum recommendation on the packaging. A patch test on a small area of skin can help you spot unexpected irritation sooner.

With vitamin C, retinol, retinal and some exfoliating ingredients, broad-spectrum sun protection during the day is important. Do not use retinol or retinal products during pregnancy or breastfeeding unless a healthcare professional advises otherwise. Stop using the product if irritation persists and seek medical advice if necessary.

3. Look at the packaging, shelf life and information

A serum should have a complete ingredients list, contents, shelf-life information and usage warnings. Check the PAO symbol, such as 12M, when it appears on the packaging. A pump bottle can be practical for formulas that are sensitive to light or air; with a dropper, avoid contact with the skin to keep the product clean.

For cosmetics sold on the European market, information about the responsible party is important. Also check whether the product page and packaging list the same ingredients and warnings. The packaging remains the definitive source, as formulas may change.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: An accessible choice for anyone mainly looking for hydration and wanting to start with one serum. The product description lists five types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula focuses on one clear goal: replenishing moisture. This makes it easier to combine with other active ingredients.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml contents; five forms of hyaluronic acid according to the product description; fragrance-free formula according to the listed product information.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 50ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for anyone looking for a face serum with hydration and an extensive formula for their evening routine. The product information states that it is suitable for all skin types.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product page displays the ingredients and safety information. Claims about visible improvements come from brand communications and are not a guarantee for every user.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml contents; bifida ferment lysate, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate in the listed INCI list; morning and evening use according to the product information.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: For users specifically looking for azelaic acid for blemish-prone or easily reactive skin. According to the product description, the formula contains 10% azelaic acid, centella and no niacinamide.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The label clearly states that it is free from niacinamide. The advice to start every other day supports gradual introduction.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; 10% azelaic acid according to the product name; centella asiatica and a niacinamide-free formula according to the product description.

Suitable for: Fans of an even skin tone

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: An option for anyone looking for a serum for an even skin tone with a light, hydrating texture. The INCI list includes 2% alpha-arbutin, rice bran water and niacinamide.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The stated concentration of alpha-arbutin makes comparison easier. Daytime sun protection remains necessary as part of a routine for pigmentation.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; 2% alpha-arbutin; rice bran water listed as an early ingredient in the stated ingredients list.

How to use a serum in your routine

1. Cleanse your face and use a toner if desired.
2. Apply one to a few drops of serum to dry or slightly damp skin, following the label.
3. Finish with a moisturiser.
4. Use sun protection in the morning, especially with vitamin C, retinol, retinal or a serum for pigmentation.
5. Do not immediately combine several potent active ingredients. Introduce products gradually and pay attention to how your skin reacts.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How often should you use face serum?

That depends on the formula. A hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid can often be used daily if the packaging indicates this. A retinol serum, retinal product or azelaic acid serum is best introduced gradually. Always follow the instructions on the packaging.

Can I use several serums at the same time?

You can, but it is better to start with one product. For example, first combine a hydrating serum with a simple cream. Only add niacinamide, vitamin C or another active ingredient later. Do not use retinol or retinal without taking irritation and sensitivity to sunlight into account.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

A 30 ml bottle often lasts several weeks to several months when a few drops are used at a time. The actual usage period depends on the dosage and frequency of use. Store the serum according to the packaging, close the bottle securely and observe the shelf life after opening.