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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum often contains more targeted ingredients than a regular day cream. This can make it a practical addition to your routine if you have dry, dull, sensitive or mature skin. There’s plenty of choice, too, from hydrating serums with hyaluronic acid to anti-ageing serums with peptides or niacinamide.

But the packaging doesn’t always tell the whole story. If you focus only on claims such as “glow”, “firming” or “deep hydration”, you could end up with a product that doesn’t suit your skin. Use these checks to reduce the risk of choosing the wrong one.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Mistaking a promise for a guaranteed result

Words such as “anti-wrinkle”, “restoring” and “firming” usually describe a product’s intended purpose or a brand’s claim. They don’t guarantee that everyone will see the same results. For example, a brand’s own research might show that a product gives skin a smoother appearance or improves hydration, but the conditions of that research can vary.

So start by checking the ingredients, concentrations and directions for use. A serum with glycerine, panthenol or hyaluronic acid is worth considering if your skin is dehydrated. Peptides, niacinamide and other active ingredients may be worth looking for in an anti-wrinkle serum, but don’t expect it to replace professional skincare.

2. “For all skin types” doesn’t automatically mean it’s suitable for everyone

A serum for all skin types can be convenient, but your skin may still react to fragrance, alcohol, acids or a high concentration of active ingredients. Sensitive skin usually calls for a short ingredients list and a gentle introduction to the product.

Check whether the formula contains fragrance, too. For example, the Embryolisse Hydra Serum lists parfum and limonene among its ingredients, while the Torriden serum is described as fragrance-free in the product information. This difference matters if you’re looking for a serum for sensitive skin.

3. Using a serum without following up with a moisturiser

A serum is usually one step in your routine, not a complete routine in itself. Hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid work well when followed by a moisturiser. If you apply a serum during the day with ingredients intended to promote a more even-looking complexion, use a sunscreen that fits your routine, too.

Also check the product’s shelf life. The period after opening, such as 6M or 12M, is usually shown on the packaging. Store your face serum somewhere cool and dry, away from direct sunlight, and close the pump or dropper bottle carefully.

Important things to consider before you buy

1. Check the main purpose and texture

  • Hydrating serum: look for glycerine, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid or beta-glucan.
  • Serum for dry skin: a gel or lotion texture with several humectants can feel comfortable. Follow with a cream to help limit moisture loss.
  • Firming serum or anti-ageing serum: look for peptides, niacinamide and other clearly listed active ingredients. Claims about collagen or wrinkles remain brand claims, so don’t treat them as guaranteed results.
  • Serum for sensitive skin: look for fragrance-free, alcohol-free formulas with a limited number of ingredients. Introduce new products one at a time.

Texture also affects how easily you can layer a product. A light gel often sits well under day cream and make-up. A richer formula may be better suited to dry skin or an evening routine.

2. Check the full INCI list

Ingredients in the European cosmetics ingredients list are generally listed in order of quantity, with exceptions for low concentrations. So don’t just look at the standout ingredients on the front of the packaging.

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum lists ingredients including ginseng root water, snail secretion filtrate, glycerine, niacinamide and several forms of hyaluronic acid. The product information describes it as a hydrating and firming serum for dry, normal and combination skin. If you prefer not to use ingredients of animal origin, check the formula beforehand, even if the product also makes other vegan claims.

A hyaluronic acid serum can contain different molecular forms. Torriden DIVE IN lists a complex of five types of hyaluronic acid, as well as panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan. These are verifiable product details; your experience will depend on your skin type, routine and how often you use it.

3. Consider the size, packaging and how to use it

Compare more than just the price: check the size, too. 30 ml and 50 ml are common formats, while Naturie Hatomugi contains 500 ml and is described more as a lotion than a classic serum. A pump bottle limits contact with the formula. If you’re using a dropper, good hygiene is important: don’t touch your skin with the dropper.

If you have sensitive skin, carry out a small patch test first, following the brand’s instructions. Stop using the product if redness, itching or irritation persists, and follow the safety information on the packaging. For example, the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Serum advises introducing it gradually and patch-testing; use sun protection during the day, too.

Our recommendations for different skin types and routines

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula is clearly focused on hydration and comes in a 50 ml size, making it easy to build a simple daily routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

Its main purpose is clear: the product information lists five types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan. According to the product details, the formula is fragrance-free.

Key benefits and features

50 ml; light, hydrating focus; fragrance-free according to the product information; suitable for use under a moisturiser.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum 100 ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum 100 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its generous size and positioning around hydration and anti-ageing make it a good fit if you’re looking for a regular morning and evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list is available and includes glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, bifida ferment lysate and a peptide. According to the product information, the formula is oil-free.

Key benefits and features

100 ml; suitable for all skin types according to the product details; oil-free formula; designed for morning and evening use.

Suitable for: Targeted use and intensive users
Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum Green Tea Panthenol Green 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea+Panthenol Green 30ml

Why it suits this profile: This Korean skincare serum is designed for routines for sensitive or dehydrated skin. According to the directions, you can apply a small amount every day.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists green tea, panthenol and centella asiatica. It also describes the product as alcohol-free, fragrance-free and hypoallergenic.

Key benefits and features

30 ml; 5% panthenol according to the product description; fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product details; lightweight texture.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety regulations.

How to use a face serum in your routine

  1. Cleanse your face and gently pat your skin dry.
  2. Apply a few drops or one to two pumps, depending on the label.
  3. Spread the serum over your face and, if you like, your neck, without rubbing hard.
  4. Follow with a moisturiser.
  5. Add sun protection during the day if it suits the product and your routine.

If you’re using an active serum, start by applying it less often. Don’t combine several exfoliating or highly active products straight away. That way, it’s easier to tell which product may have caused a reaction.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

Which face serum is right for dry skin?

Choose a serum for dry skin with humectants such as glycerine, panthenol and hyaluronic acid. Applying a richer cream afterwards helps complete your routine. If your skin feels tight easily, check whether the formula contains fragrance or alcohol, too.

Can I use a face serum every day?

It depends on the ingredients. A simple hydrating serum is often designed for daily use. If you’re using a serum with azelaic acid or other active ingredients, build up gradually according to the product instructions. Stop if irritation occurs, and speak to a doctor or skincare professional if symptoms persist.

How long does serum last after opening?

Check the open-jar symbol on the packaging, for example 6M or 12M. This shows the recommended period of use after opening. Store the product away from sunlight, close the lid or pump securely, and check the smell, colour and texture before using it again.