Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can provide targeted support in your routine, but not every product suits every skin type. A lightweight formula with hyaluronic acid works differently from a niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum or retinol serum. So start by considering your skin’s needs, then look at the marketing claims.

Common mistakes when buying a face serum

1. Assuming a higher percentage is always better

A product with a high percentage of niacinamide, acids or retinol may sound appealing, but it can be less suitable for sensitive skin or a weakened skin barrier. Always check the full ingredients list and follow the instructions for use. A lower percentage that you use consistently may be more practical than an intensive formula that you have to stop using quickly because of irritation.

2. Relying solely on claims about visible results

Claims such as “fewer wrinkles in a few weeks” or “pigmentation disappears” are no guarantee for your skin. According to the brand’s own research, certain results may have been measured under specific conditions. So treat this information as a product claim, not a guaranteed result. A serum for wrinkles or a serum for pigmentation does not replace dermatological advice either.

3. Forgetting about texture and how it fits into your routine

A hydrating serum may feel pleasant, but a sticky formula does not suit everyone under make-up. Using several active ingredients in one routine can also place unnecessary strain on your skin. Ideally, start with one face serum and only add another product later.

Which features should you check?

1. The active ingredient should match your goal

• Dry or dehydrated skin: look for glycerine, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid. A hyaluronic acid serum mainly works as a moisture-binding step and is usually followed by a moisturiser.
• Sensitive or red skin: look for panthenol, beta-glucan, allantoin and centella asiatica. A centella serum may suit a simple, soothing routine, but also check for fragrance and essential oils.
• Dull skin or an uneven complexion: niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and vitamin C derivatives are often found in a vitamin C serum or niacinamide serum.
• Mature skin and fine lines: peptides, adenosine and retinoids are often used in an anti-ageing serum. Retinol and retinal require gradual introduction and daily use of sun protection.

Pay attention to where an ingredient appears in the list. The order usually indicates the amount, but not how well it will work for your skin.

2. Check the tolerance indicators

Look for clear information about fragrance, alcohol, essential oils and exfoliating acids. “Suitable for sensitive skin” is a brand or seller description, not a personal guarantee. A serum for sensitive skin may still contain an ingredient that causes you to react.

For example, according to the product information, the ANUA Heartleaf 80% Soothing Ampoule is described as fragrance-free and dermatologically tested. The ingredients list includes houttuynia cordata water, glycerine, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate, among others. These are verifiable product details; how your skin responds to them remains personal.

3. Consider usage, size and shelf life

A 20 or 30 ml bottle is standard for a concentrated face serum. A 50, 60 or 100 ml pack may seem better value, but only if you use the product regularly before its period after opening expires. Check:

1. whether the serum is intended for use in the morning, evening or both;
2. whether it should be applied to dry or slightly damp skin;
3. whether you should store the product in a cool place away from direct sunlight after opening;
4. whether the expiry and batch information is shown on the packaging.

Extra care is needed with retinol products. The SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule lists retinol and retinal, recommends using it two to three times a week initially and states that the product should only be used in the evening. According to the product information, it is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Always follow the label and ask a healthcare professional for advice if you are unsure.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

OGB Magic Hyaluron Pro Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A simple hydrating step for anyone adding a face serum to their routine for the first time. The product description mentions hyaluronic acid and panthenol and states that the formula is suitable for all skin types.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The focus is on hydration rather than a long list of intensive actives. This makes the choice more straightforward for beginners.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml; hyaluronic acid and panthenol according to the product description; lightweight serum texture.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 30ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone who wants to consciously add a retinol serum to their evening routine and is prepared to build up usage gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions mention an adjustment phase, patch testing and evening use. This means the intensive formula is not intended for immediate daily use.

Key benefit & advantages

Retinol and retinal listed; contains centella and panthenol; clear instructions for gradual introduction.

How to use a face serum in practice

Apply the serum after cleansing and, if required, after toner. Use a small amount and spread it over your face and neck according to the product instructions. Finish with a moisturiser to help lock in moisture. During the day, a routine containing vitamin C, retinol or ingredients targeting pigmentation should also include a sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.

Do not combine several strong products straight away. For example, start by using a hydrating serum for a few days. Only then add a niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum or retinol serum. Stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, swelling, itching or a burning sensation, and follow the safety information on the packaging.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

When should you apply a face serum?

Usually after cleansing and before moisturiser. A hyaluronic acid serum is often applied to slightly damp skin, while a retinol serum is generally intended for an evening routine. Always check the instructions for the specific product.

How long does a face serum last?

Shelf life varies between formulas. Check the expiry date, batch information and the symbol indicating the period after opening, such as 12M. Store the serum according to the label, usually in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. A change in smell, colour or texture may be a reason to stop using the product.

Do you still need a moisturiser alongside a serum?

Often, yes. A serum adds targeted ingredients, but a moisturiser is usually the final step in your routine. This combination is particularly practical when using a serum for dry or dehydrated skin. During the day, also use sun protection when appropriate for the product instructions and your routine.