Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a valuable step between cleansing and moisturising. However, it is not wise to rely solely on terms such as “glow”, “repair” or “anti-ageing”. Its effectiveness and suitability depend on the ingredients, concentration, directions for use and your skin type.

Buying a serum without comparing your options often leads to three problems:

• Marketing claims are read as guarantees. A brand may claim, for example, that a serum reduces wrinkles or strengthens the skin barrier. The brand’s own research may show such results, but this is no guarantee for every user.
• A high concentration automatically seems better. A strong vitamin C serum or retinol serum may target specific concerns, but it can also cause stinging or redness more quickly. Gradual introduction is important.
• Texture is underestimated. A serum that feels sticky or pills beneath sun cream and make-up often ends up unused. For example, a lightweight ampoule is used differently from a rich anti-ageing serum.

Which properties should you check?

1. Look at active ingredients and concentrations

First choose your skincare goal, then check the ingredients list. Some common options include:

• Hyaluronic acid and glycerine: moisture-binding ingredients suited to a hydrating serum.
• Niacinamide: often used in formulas designed to promote a more even-looking complexion and support your skincare routine.
• Centella asiatica: a commonly used ingredient in a serum for sensitive skin. A centella ampoule usually has a lightweight, watery texture.
• Vitamin C: popular in a serum for radiant-looking skin. A high concentration, such as 23% ascorbic acid in some formulas, requires extra care when introducing and storing the product.
• Retinol and retinal: ingredients in a retinol serum that are preferably used in the evening. Gradually increase the frequency and use sun protection during the day.
• Alpha-arbutin and niacinamide: found in serums aimed at dull or uneven complexions.

Pay attention to the full ingredients list. The order generally gives an indication of the amount present, but it does not tell you everything about how the formula will ultimately perform.

2. Check your skin type, usage and warnings

A product for all skin types is not automatically suitable for every skin condition. Check whether the serum contains fragrance, alcohol, exfoliating acids or a high concentration of retinol. If you have reactive skin, a patch test is advisable.

Retinol and retinal require additional precautions. The product information for brands such as SKIN1004 and Some By Mi advises starting gradually, avoiding contact with the eyes and lips, and stopping use if irritation occurs. Do not use retinol products during pregnancy or while breastfeeding unless advised by a healthcare professional.

3. Consider volume, shelf life and storage

Do not compare only the price of the bottle; consider the volume too. A 100 ml bottle may offer better value for daily use than a 20 or 30 ml version, provided you use the formula before its expiry date.

Vitamin C serums can be sensitive to light, heat and air. product information advises storing the vitamin C23 serum in the fridge and using it within a limited period after opening. Always check the packaging for the official expiry date, batch information and period after opening.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product description, this lightweight ampoule contains Centella asiatica extract and is designed to hydrate the skin and provide a comfortable feel. This makes it a straightforward starting point if you do not yet have an extensive serum routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula has one clear hero ingredient and avoids a long list of highly active ingredients that can be difficult for beginners to combine.

Key benefit & highlights

55 ml volume, watery texture and a focus on hydration and soothing care.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 50 ml

Why it suits this profile: Among other ingredients, this formula combines hyaluronic acid, ferments and the brand’s patented technology. According to Estée Lauder’s own research, it improves hydration and the appearance of fine lines, among other benefits.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists specific details such as 50 ml, an oil-free formula and suitability for all skin types, so you do not have to choose based solely on a vague anti-ageing claim.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml volume, hydrating ingredients and a formula suitable for use both morning and evening.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the ingredients list, this retinol serum contains 0.1% retinol, retinal, bakuchiol, panthenol and ceramide NP. It is aimed at users who want to gradually expand their evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The directions recommend introducing it gradually, carrying out a patch test and using it in the evening. This makes it less likely that you will apply too many active products at once.

Key benefit & highlights

A clear retinol concentration of 0.1%, plus nourishing ingredients such as panthenol and ceramide NP.

Suitable for: Korean skincare enthusiasts

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this Korean skincare serum combines 60% propolis extract with 2% niacinamide and also contains sodium hyaluronate and Centella asiatica.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The concentrations of the two main actives are stated. This is more useful than choosing based solely on the name “glow” or “radiance”.

Key benefit & highlights

2% niacinamide, 60% propolis extract and directions to apply 2 to 3 drops after cleansing and toning.

How to add face serum to your routine

1. Cleanse your face and leave the skin slightly damp if this is recommended in the directions.
2. Apply a few drops. Using more product does not automatically mean better results.
3. Follow with a moisturiser to lock in moisture.
4. Apply sun cream during the day, particularly when using retinol, retinal, vitamin C or exfoliating acids.
5. Introduce one new active product at a time. This makes it easier to see how your skin responds.

An anti-ageing serum is therefore not necessarily the right choice for dry skin, and a vitamin C serum is not always suitable for sensitive skin. Compare the formula with your existing routine and choose a product you can use consistently.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

When should you use a face serum?

You usually apply serum after cleansing and before moisturiser. Some formulas are suitable for morning and evening use, while a retinol serum is generally used only in the evening. Always follow the label of the specific product.

How long does a serum last?

This varies depending on the formula and packaging. Check the expiry date, batch information and the symbol indicating the period after opening. Store serums that are sensitive to light and temperature according to the product instructions. A vitamin C serum, for example, may require particularly careful storage.

Can you use multiple serums at the same time?

Sometimes, but do not combine several strong actives without checking first. Retinol, high concentrations of vitamin C and exfoliating acids can cause irritation more quickly when used together. Start with one serum and only add a second later if your skin tolerates the routine well.