Choosing a face serum: a practical guide to skin type, ingredients and use

A face serum can be a simple addition to your skincare routine, but there’s a lot to choose from. A hydrating serum, niacinamide serum and vitamin C serum each have a different purpose. And a higher concentration doesn’t automatically mean a product is better suited to your skin.

Many disappointing purchases come down to three common pitfalls:

• Mistaking marketing claims for guaranteed results. Words such as “glow”, “repair” and “anti-ageing” often describe a desired look, but say little about how your skin will respond.
• Using too many active ingredients at once. Niacinamide, acids, vitamin C and retinal can all have a place in your routine. Starting them all together, however, can cause unnecessary dryness or irritation.
• Not checking the formula. A serum for sensitive skin may still contain fragrance, alcohol or other ingredients you’d rather avoid. Always check the current ingredients list on the packaging.

What should you look for in a face serum?

1. Start with one specific skin concern

Decide what you want the serum to help with:

• Dryness or tightness: look for glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, beta-glucan and other moisture-binding ingredients.
• A weakened skin barrier: look for ingredients such as panthenol, ceramides, lipids and soothing ingredients like bisabolol or centella.
• Uneven skin tone or dark spots: a serum with niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin or a vitamin C derivative could suit your routine.
• Redness or reactive skin: a serum for redness should preferably be fragrance-free, and introduced gradually.
• Spots and clogged pores: look for niacinamide, salicylic acid or azelaic acid. According to the product information, azelaic acid may cause sensitivity, so it’s wise to introduce it gradually and do a patch test.
• Fine lines and skin texture: an anti-ageing serum with peptides or retinal calls for extra care with how often you use it and sun protection.

The ingredients mentioned don’t guarantee a particular result. How well they work depends on the full formula, concentration, how long you use the product and your skin.

2. Check the concentration and product type

A percentage can help you compare products, but it needs to be considered in context. A niacinamide serum with 5% isn’t automatically more or less suitable than a formula with 10%. A higher concentration may suit some people better, but it can also cause sensitivity sooner.

Also consider the texture:

• A lightweight, watery serum often sits well under a day cream or sunscreen.
• A gel texture can feel comfortable on combination or oilier skin.
• A richer formula with lipids or ceramides may suit dry skin better.
• An essence, such as a snail mucin formula, may feel and be used much like a serum, but it isn’t always the same type of product.

Check the net contents, too. Many serums contain 30 ml; some hydrating formulas offer 50 or 100 ml. A smaller bottle with a potent active ingredient may be intended for limited use.

3. Consider tolerance, packaging and how to use it

A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers. If the product comes with a dropper, use it hygienically: don’t touch your skin with the dropper. Keep vitamin C and retinal products out of direct sunlight and follow the instructions on the packaging.

Apply a serum after cleansing, and after toner if you use one, but before moisturiser. Introduce one new active product at a time. Use sunscreen during the day, especially when the product information specifically recommends it. Stop using the product if irritation persists, and speak to a doctor or dermatologist if you’re unsure.

Our recommendations for different shoppers

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Green 30ml

Why it suits this shopper: Its lightweight texture and blend of green tea water, panthenol and glycerin make it a good match for anyone trying a hydrating serum for the first time.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information says it contains no fragrance or alcohol. Always check the packaging, though, as ingredients may change.

Key benefits & highlights

30 ml, vegan according to the product details, with 5% panthenol according to the product description.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this shopper: A good choice if you’re looking for a formula with several barrier-supporting ingredients and want to compare the full INCI list.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula includes niacinamide, bisabolol, lipids and ceramide-like ingredients. The product information also carries a warning about eye irritation.

Key benefits & highlights

30 ml, fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product specifications; designed for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster 15 ml

Why it suits this shopper: This product is aimed at people who want to use retinal deliberately to address skin texture and fine lines, and can stick to an evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions recommend building up to using it every other evening and warn that it can increase sun sensitivity. This helps you avoid overuse.

Key benefits & highlights

Contains 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000 according to the product information; the bottle contains 15 ml.

Suitable for: Skin with visible discolouration

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this shopper: An option if you’re specifically looking for a serum for dark spots and uneven skin tone, with a lightweight gel texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The niacinamide and tranexamic acid percentages are clearly stated in the product name. This makes it easier to compare products, rather than relying on “brightening” claims alone.

Key benefits & highlights

30 ml, pump bottle and, according to the product details, fragrance-free, alcohol-free and suitable for a range of skin concerns.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

First, cleanse your face, then apply a few drops. Smooth the product over your skin without rubbing hard, and finish with a moisturiser. Use sun protection during the day. If you’re using an active serum, such as one with retinal or azelaic acid, start by using it infrequently and follow the instructions on the packaging.

How long does a serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period-after-opening symbol on the packaging. A product with an open-jar symbol showing, for example, 12M is intended to be used within twelve months of opening. A change in smell, colour or texture may mean you should stop using the product. Store your serum in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

Can you combine different serums?

Sometimes, but introduce them one at a time. Don’t start using a vitamin C serum, exfoliating acid and retinal in the same routine all at once. A hydrating serum with panthenol or hyaluronic acid is generally easier to combine with other products, but always check the full ingredients list and stop using it if irritation occurs.