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Choosing a face serum: a practical guide to ingredients, skin type and use

A face serum can be a targeted step in your skincare routine, but there’s a lot of choice. Looking for a hydrating serum, a vitamin C serum or a serum for sensitive skin? It can be tempting to go by terms such as “glow”, “glass skin” or “pore-refining”. However, these descriptions don’t always tell you whether a formula will suit your skin and routine.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A higher percentage doesn’t tell you everything

A higher percentage of niacinamide, vitamin C or azelaic acid isn’t automatically right for every skin type. The overall formula, its acidity, other ingredients and how often you use it all matter too. A serum with several active ingredients may also feel too intense if you’re already using exfoliants or retinoids.

2. Marketing claims are mistaken for guaranteed results

Brands sometimes describe results such as more even-looking skin, smaller pores or less visible fine lines. Treat these claims as information from the brand, rather than guaranteed results. A brand’s own research may have measured certain effects under specific conditions. So, pay particular attention to the ingredients list, directions for use and warnings.

An anti-acne serum, a serum for dark spots or an anti-ageing serum is a cosmetic product. It doesn’t replace treatment or personalised advice from a doctor or dermatologist.

3. The risk of sensitivity is overlooked

Even a serum for sensitive skin may contain ingredients that don’t suit everyone. These include fragrance, essential oils, alcohol, salicylic acid, retinal or a high concentration of vitamin C. Test a new product on a small area of skin first, and introduce active formulas gradually.

What should you check before buying?

1. Look at the key ingredient and the full formula

Choose ingredients to suit your goal:

  • Hydration: glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and beta-glucan are humectant ingredients.
  • Skin barrier: ceramides, cholesterol, lipids and emollients may suit skin that feels dry or tight.
  • Dullness and pigmentation: niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid and vitamin C are often found in serums for dark spots.
  • Blemishes and redness: niacinamide, zinc PCA and azelaic acid are often used in formulas for blemish-prone skin.
  • Texture and visible signs of ageing: peptides and retinal are popular ingredients in anti-ageing serums. Introduce retinal gradually and use sun protection every day.

A K-beauty serum or product from Korean skincare may combine several of these ingredients. However, more ingredients don’t automatically make it a better choice.

2. Check how well it suits your skin

Don’t rely on claims such as “hypoallergenic” or “dermatologically tested” alone. Check the full INCI list too. For example, a fragrance-free serum may still contain active acids. For its azelaic acid serum, Anua’s product information advises starting gradually and doing a patch test first. Use sun protection during the day when using active ingredients.

Ingredient lists for products on this page may change, so always check the packaging you receive. This is especially important for products whose online information says that the full ingredients list cannot be guaranteed.

3. Consider the texture, packaging and shelf life

A watery formula often works well under a moisturiser and sunscreen. A gel or lotion texture may feel more comfortable on combination skin. A richer formula with lipids and ceramides may be a better choice if your skin feels dry.

Also check:

  • the size, usually 15 to 50 ml;
  • the use-by date or period after opening;
  • whether a pump or pipette limits contact with the skin;
  • storage advice, such as protection from sunlight;
  • warnings about the eyes, damaged skin and irritation.

Recommended face serums for different skin profiles

Suitable for: Beginners on a budget
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula combines rice bran water, glycerine, 2% alpha-arbutin and niacinamide in a 30 ml product. It’s a straightforward option if you’re new to Korean skincare.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The active formula is clearly specified. You don’t have to rely solely on a general glow claim: the ingredients and concentration of alpha-arbutin are listed.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; fragrance-free according to the product information; contains glycerine, panthenol and trehalose for a moisturising feel on the skin.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum 30 ml

The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this serum is designed to hydrate and support the skin barrier. Its ingredients include niacinamide, bisabolol, ceramide-like lipids and plant extracts.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula doesn’t rely on a single trending ingredient. The ingredients list shows a blend of humectants, lipids and soothing ingredients.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product information; described as suitable for sensitive skin.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula contains 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, betaine, hyaluronic acid, centella and ceramide NP. The directions support a gradual approach to building your routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information specifically recommends introducing it gradually and doing a patch test, and mentions that dryness or pilling may occur. This can help you avoid overuse.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; contains panthenol, squalane and ceramide NP; suggested starting point is once or twice a week.

Suitable for: Sensitive skin and a simple routine
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Daily Skincare Discovery Kit

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Daily Skincare Discovery Kit

Why it suits this profile: This set contains five steps, including a toner, ampoule and soothing cream. It’s a practical way to try several products in one routine before buying larger sizes.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The set gives you a clear order to follow: cleanse, tone, apply the ampoule and finish with cream. This helps you avoid buying several separate serums at once.

Key benefit & highlights

Five products; the listed formulas contain centella asiatica, glycerine and hyaluronic acid; 450 ml in total according to the product information.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety requirements.

How to add a face serum to your routine

  1. Cleanse your face and apply toner if you wish.
  2. Apply a few drops of serum to dry or slightly damp skin, depending on the product instructions.
  3. Follow with a moisturiser.
  4. During the day, use sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.
  5. Introduce just one new active serum at a time so you can identify any reaction more easily.

Don’t combine several active products without planning ahead, such as a vitamin C serum, salicylic acid, azelaic acid and retinal. It’s better to alternate them and give your skin time to get used to each product.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

When should you apply a face serum?

A serum is usually applied after cleansing and before moisturiser. Always follow the specific instructions on the packaging. Some formulas are intended for evening use, while others can be used both morning and evening.

How long does a face serum last?

This varies by formula and packaging. Check the expiry date, the period after opening and the storage advice. In general, store a serum somewhere cool and dry, away from direct sunlight. A change in smell, colour or texture may be a reason to stop using the product.

Which serum is right for sensitive or dry skin?

Look for a simple formula with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients, such as glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. At first, avoid using several strong active ingredients at once, and do a patch test.