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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted step in your skincare routine, but not every serum suits every skin type. A lightweight formula with hyaluronic acid can feel good on dehydrated skin, while a niacinamide serum or azelaic acid serum may be a better match for uneven skin tone or blemish-prone skin.

Packaging doesn’t always make choosing easier. Terms such as “intensive”, “glow” and “restorative” don’t tell you much about the formula on their own. Instead, focus on the ingredients list, the concentration of active ingredients and the directions for use.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Mistaking a long ingredients list for a powerful formula

More ingredients don’t automatically mean a serum is a better match for you. A product may contain various plant extracts, acids and hydrating ingredients, which can also make it harder to assess if you have sensitive skin.

First, identify your main skincare goal:

  • Hydration: look for glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, sodium hyaluronate or other forms of hyaluronic acid.
  • Soothing: centella asiatica, madecassoside, allantoin and panthenol are often found in serums for sensitive skin.
  • A more even skin tone: niacinamide, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid or kojic acid are used for this purpose in cosmetic product descriptions.
  • Blemishes: look for ingredients such as azelaic acid, niacinamide or salicylic acid. These don’t guarantee a particular result.

2. Using an active formula too often

A serum for redness, pigmentation or acne may contain active ingredients that need to be introduced gradually. For example, the product information for ANUA Azelaic Acid serum recommends starting with once or twice a week and building up gradually. A patch test is a good idea if your skin reacts easily.

Avoid using several strong serums at once without a clear reason. Combining a niacinamide serum with a hydrating serum is usually easier to manage than using several exfoliating or highly concentrated formulas in one routine.

3. Skipping SPF in a routine for a more even skin tone

The directions for products containing azelaic acid or kojic acid recommend using sun protection during the day. This doesn’t mean the serum has a medical effect. It does mean that a routine for pigmentation or visible discolouration isn’t complete without a suitable sunscreen.

Also read the warnings on the packaging before buying. Stop using the product if you experience persistent irritation, swelling, itching or a burning sensation, and seek medical advice if needed.

Which specifications should you check before buying?

1. Ingredient and concentration

Choose one main goal, then compare the active ingredients. A hyaluronic acid serum is primarily designed to help the skin retain moisture. A centella ampoule often contains centella asiatica and is intended as a lightweight, soothing skincare step. The concentration is important when choosing an azelaic acid serum: several products in the range state that they contain 10%.

Keep in mind that claims made by brands about how a product works don’t guarantee a particular result. According to a brand’s own research or the product description, ingredients may help with hydration, a calmer-looking complexion or a more even skin tone. Always check the current INCI list on the packaging, as ingredients can change.

2. Texture, size and use

A thin serum usually absorbs quickly and works well under a moisturiser or sunscreen. A slightly richer formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but less so on oily skin.

Also compare the size:

  • 30 ml is a common size for a daily serum.
  • 50 to 100 ml may be more practical if you want to keep to a simple, consistent routine.
  • You’ll usually only need a few drops; using more won’t automatically make it more effective.
  • Store the bottle closed, in a cool place and out of direct sunlight if the packaging recommends this.

3. Sensitivities and other products

If you want to avoid fragrance, alcohol or certain preservatives, check the product details and ingredients list. Even if a product is described as fragrance-free or alcohol-free, check the current packaging too.

Apply a face serum after cleansing and, if you use one, toner. Follow with a moisturiser. During the day, apply sun protection as the final step. If you’re using a serum for sensitive skin, a simple routine is often easier to assess than one that includes lots of new products at once.

Our recommendations for different skin goals and shopping needs

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 100 ml

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule - 100ml

Why it suits this profile: The 100 ml size is handy if you want to start with one simple centella ampoule and use a few drops regularly.

How this product helps avoid the pitfall

The product information recommends a simple routine: cleanse, apply a few drops and massage in gently. This means you don’t need to combine several active serums straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

100 ml; centella asiatica as the key ingredient; suitable as a lightweight skincare step.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum Green Tea Panthenol

Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Green 30ml

Why it suits this profile: This Korean formula is a good fit if you’re looking for a lightweight texture with green tea, panthenol and mugwort extract.

How this product helps avoid the pitfall

The stated formula contains 5% panthenol and, according to the product details, is alcohol- and fragrance-free. Check the packaging for the current ingredients.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; lightweight serum texture; product details list panthenol, green tea and sodium hyaluronate.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: This formula is designed for people who want to add azelaic acid to a routine for blemish-prone skin or visible redness.

How this product helps avoid the pitfall

The directions recommend introducing it gradually, patch testing and using SPF daily. This makes the strength of the formula and the routine it requires clearer.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; panthenol and sodium hyaluronate in the ingredients list; 30 ml size.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

When should you apply a face serum?

Use your serum after cleansing and, if you use one, after toner. Apply a few drops, then follow with a moisturiser. During the day, apply sun protection afterwards. Always check the product’s specific directions for use.

How long does a face serum last?

Check the packaging for the expiry date and the period-after-opening symbol, such as 12M. Store the serum as instructed and close the bottle securely. If its smell, colour or texture changes, stop using it.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Choose a simple formula if possible, and avoid using several new active ingredients at once. A serum for sensitive skin containing panthenol, centella or beta-glucan may suit a soothing routine. Test a small amount first and stop using it if irritation occurs.