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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily routine. However, it’s best not to rely on claims such as “glow”, “lifting” or “pore-refining” alone. Face serums vary widely in their ingredients, how often they should be used, their texture and whether they’re suitable for sensitive skin.

So, the right choice starts with your skin goals, not the packaging. Are you mainly looking for a hydrating serum, hoping to tackle a dull complexion, or would an anti-blemish serum fit your routine better? Read on to find out what to look for.

Three common pitfalls when buying a face serum

1. Confusing a bold claim with a measurable product benefit

Terms such as “instant results” or “glass skin” don’t tell you much on their own. Instead, check the product information for ingredients and concentrations. For example, a niacinamide serum may target oiliness, skin tone and the appearance of pores, while a hyaluronic acid formula mainly adds moisture.

Claims about visible results come from the brand and shouldn’t be taken as a guarantee for every user. According to the brand’s own research, results may also depend on how long you use the product, your skin type and the rest of your routine.

2. Using too many active ingredients at once

A vitamin C serum, exfoliating serum and serum for pigmentation can each serve a different purpose. Combining several potent formulas at once may cause skin discomfort. So, start with one new product and gradually increase how often you use it.

Take extra care with acids such as PHA, AHA or lactic acid. Use the product as directed on the label, avoid applying it to damaged skin, and stop if redness, itching or irritation persists.

3. Not checking the formula and directions for use of products labelled “suitable for sensitive skin”

A serum for sensitive skin isn’t automatically suitable for everyone. Also check whether it’s fragrance-free, whether it contains alcohol or exfoliating acids, and how often it’s recommended for use. Even a fragrance-free formula may contain active ingredients that your skin needs time to adjust to.

Test a new serum on a small area of skin first. During the day, also use a sun protection product if advised in the product information, especially with formulas containing acids or vitamin C.

Key specifications to compare

Ingredients and concentration

Look for ingredients that match your goal:

  • Glycerine, panthenol and hyaluronic acid are often used in hydrating serums.
  • Niacinamide is found in formulas designed to promote a more even-looking complexion, reduce the appearance of pores and suit skin that gets shiny more quickly.
  • PHA, AHA or enzymes exfoliate the skin. These ingredients can help rough skin feel smoother, but should be introduced gradually.
  • Vitamin C, alpha-arbutin and tranexamic acid are used in serums designed to target uneven skin tone and visible pigmentation. Don’t expect guaranteed results; follow the product instructions.
  • Azelaic acid is often chosen for skin prone to blemishes or redness. Always check the full ingredients list.

A higher percentage isn’t automatically a better choice. The overall formula, stability, packaging and your skin’s tolerance all matter too.

Texture, packaging and size

A lightweight gel often works well under day cream or sun protection. A richer formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but could feel less comfortable on oily or combination skin.

Check the size too: many serums contain 30 ml, while some come in 50 ml sizes. A pump dispenser limits contact with air and fingers; if the product comes with a pipette, hygienic use is important. Close the packaging after each use and store the serum as directed on the label.

Use and compatibility with other products

Check whether the serum is intended for morning, evening or both. Usually, apply it after cleansing and, if you use one, a toner, before moisturiser. Don’t combine multiple exfoliating products without a good reason.

If you use a serum for pigmentation or a vitamin C serum, use suitable sun protection during the day if the manufacturer recommends it. This helps you tailor your routine to the product’s purpose.

Our recommendations for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Clinique Moisture Surge Active Glow Serum 30ml

Clinique Moisture Surge Active Glow Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice if you’re mainly looking for hydration and a lightweight texture, without a complicated routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists hyaluronic acid, a fragrance-free formula and suitability for all skin types, giving you more to compare than just a glow claim.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the product description: lightweight texture, 30 ml size, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
SKII SK-II GenOptics Aura Essence Serum - 50ml

SKII SK-II GenOptics Aura Essence Serum - 50ml

Why it suits this profile: A good fit if you’re looking for a more luxurious formula that focuses on radiance, hydration and uneven skin tone.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product page lists the active ingredients and describes the formula as fast-absorbing. Make sure the price and intended benefits suit your own routine.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the product description: 50 ml size, lightweight texture and ingredients including niacinamide and bisabolol.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
Dr.Jart+ PORE REMEDY PHA Exfoliating Serum 30 ml

Dr.Jart+ PORE REMEDY PHA Exfoliating Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A good match if you’re looking for a targeted pore-refining serum and want to add exfoliation to your routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists 7% PHA and includes directions for use. This makes it clear that it isn’t an all-purpose hydrating serum, but a product for gradual exfoliation.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the product information: 7% PHA, fragrance-free, alcohol-free and panthenol in the ingredients list.

Suitable for: Fans of Korean skincare
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A Korean skincare serum for anyone looking to combine hydration with a more even-looking complexion in a lightweight routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description lists 2% alpha-arbutin and recommends using it in the evening. This lets you target your routine with one formula, rather than layering several products for pigmentation at once.

Key benefit & highlights

According to the product information: rice water, 2% alpha-arbutin, niacinamide, fragrance-free and alcohol-free.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and comply with the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your skin first, then apply a small amount of serum. Follow with a moisturiser. If you’re using an exfoliating serum, start by applying it less often than a simple hydrating serum. Always check the directions on the packaging.

How long does a face serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening, often shown as something like 12M. Keep the product closed, out of direct sunlight and follow the storage instructions. If the smell, colour or texture changes, stop using it.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Choose a formula with a clear ingredients list and check whether it’s fragrance-free, whether it contains active acids and what the directions for use say. A serum labelled for sensitive skin isn’t necessarily suitable for everyone. Test it on a small area first and introduce just one new product at a time.