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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can target specific needs in your skincare routine, but not every product suits every skin type. A lightweight formula with niacinamide may work well for oilier or uneven skin, while a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid may be better suited to dryness. If you’re mainly looking to address dark spots, enlarged pores, fine lines or a dull complexion, it’s worth checking the ingredients and directions for use first.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Assuming a longer ingredients list means a better formula

A serum packed with active ingredients may look appealing, but several powerful ingredients can put unnecessary strain on your skin. For example, a Vitamin C serum with niacinamide, acids and retinoids needs more careful use than a simple hydrating formula. It’s better to choose one clear priority and introduce the product gradually.

2. Looking only at percentages

A high percentage of niacinamide or retinol doesn’t tell you everything about whether a product is right for you. The rest of the formula, its texture and how often you use it matter too. A 10% niacinamide serum may suit some people, while those with sensitive skin may prefer to start with a lower concentration.

3. Forgetting sun protection

Ingredients such as retinol, retinal, kojic acid and some Vitamin C formulas can make skin more sensitive to sunlight, or brands may combine them with ingredients for which sun protection is recommended. Always follow the label. Use sun cream during the day if the product information advises it.

What to look for when buying a face serum

1. Start by choosing what your skin needs

Use the guide below as a starting point:

  • Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and ceramides. You can apply a hydrating serum under a moisturiser.
  • Dull skin or dark spots: look for Vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid, kojic acid or niacinamide. Don’t expect an immediate change; cosmetic skincare usually requires a consistent routine.
  • Enlarged pores or oilier skin: niacinamide may be a good choice. Salicylic acid is also found in some formulas, but take care not to combine several exfoliating products without considering how they work together.
  • Fine lines and mature skin: a peptide serum, bakuchiol, retinol serum or retinal formula may be suitable. Start by using it less frequently and follow the warnings.
  • Sensitive skin: choose a shorter ingredients list and check for fragrance, alcohol or known allergens. Test a new product on a small area of skin first.

2. Check the active ingredients and the warnings

A serum for dark spots won’t necessarily contain the same ingredients as one for a more even-looking complexion. So check the full ingredients list. Look out for instructions such as “use only in the evening”, avoiding the eye area, and advice to stop using the product if irritation occurs.

For example, the celimax Retinal Shot product information states that it contains 0.1% retinal and should be introduced gradually, using it every other evening. The accompanying retinol serum advises starting with two applications a week. These instructions matter more than a striking marketing claim on the front of the pack.

3. Consider the size, packaging and shelf life

Most serums in this selection contain 30 ml, while offers 150 ml and Medicube 55 ml. A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers; a dropper makes it easy to measure out the product, but needs to be used hygienically. Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging. Store the serum somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight if the manufacturer advises it.

Our recommendations for different skincare needs

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum Ginseng Snail Mucin

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and combination of ginseng water, 3% snail mucin, glycerine and hyaluronic acid make this a good fit if you’re looking to start with one everyday serum.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfalls

The product information gives clear instructions for use, and it comes in a pump bottle. However, check first that your skin tolerates ingredients such as snail mucin.

Key benefits and features

30 ml, gel texture, niacinamide and several hydrating ingredients.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Medicube Triple Collagen Serum 4.0

Medicube Triple Collagen Serum 4.0 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: If you’re looking for a generous size and a nourishing texture, this 55 ml serum combines collagen, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfalls

The ingredients list is available, so you can check for ingredients such as alcohol denat and fragrance before placing your order.

Key benefits and features

55 ml, a collagen complex, hyaluronic acid and a lightweight finish, according to the product description.

Suitable for: Targeted use and experienced skincare users
celimax The Vita A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster

celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster 15 ml

Why it suits this profile: This is for those who are specifically looking for a retinal product to use in their evening routine and are happy to build up the frequency gradually.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfalls

The instructions recommend using it every other evening for the first two weeks, applying a small amount and using sun cream every day.

Key benefits and features

0.1% retinal, 15 ml and a clear warning about sun sensitivity and irritation.

Suitable for: Targeted care for pigmentation and pores
ANUA Niacinamide 10% TXA 4% Serum

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This formula is designed for people who want to combine niacinamide and tranexamic acid in a serum for a more even-looking complexion.

How this product helps you avoid the pitfalls

The concentrations of 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid are clearly stated. This makes it easier to compare, but you should still do a patch test.

Key benefits and features

Pump bottle, 30 ml, fragrance-free according to the product specifications, and additional hydrating ingredients.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a full, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face, then apply a small amount of serum. A few drops or one to two pumps are usually enough. Smooth the product over your face and, if you like, your neck. Avoid the eye area and finish with a moisturiser. Use sun protection during the day if the product information recommends it.

How long does a face serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging. Store the product as directed, usually tightly closed and out of direct sunlight. If its smell, colour or texture changes, stop using it.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but it’s best to start with one product. Don’t immediately combine retinol, retinal, acids, Vitamin C and a serum with a high concentration of niacinamide. Introduce new products one at a time and stop using them if you experience persistent redness, itching or irritation. Consult a doctor if symptoms are severe or don’t go away.