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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. Its texture is usually lightweight, and the formula often contains specific ingredients such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides or retinol. However, an expensive serum is not automatically right for your skin. The best choice depends on your skin type, when you want to use it and the formula’s ingredients.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage does not tell you everything

A claim such as “10% niacinamide” or “0.2% retinol” quickly catches the eye. However, the percentage does not tell you how your skin will respond to the formula as a whole. The other ingredients, packaging and recommended use also play a role. For example, a niacinamide serum may suit dull or uneven-looking skin, while a retinol serum requires more gradual introduction.

2. “Hydrating” is confused with “firming”

A hydrating serum mainly helps the skin retain moisture at its surface. Ingredients such as glycerine, panthenol and hyaluronic acid are often chosen for this purpose. A firming serum usually contains additional ingredients such as peptides, adenosine or collagen. According to a brand’s own research or product information, such formulas may improve the appearance of elasticity and fine lines; this does not guarantee the same results for every user.

3. Ampoules and spicules are not always suitable for beginners

A face ampoule or K-beauty serum may have a concentrated formula. According to the product information, products containing hydrolysed sponge or a spicule texture may temporarily cause tingling or redness. This does not automatically make them unsuitable, but it is important to introduce them gradually and carry out a patch test. Do not use such a product on irritated or damaged skin.

Which specifications should you check before buying?

Active ingredients and skin concerns

Start by considering your skin concern, and only then look at the brand name. These ingredients are commonly found in targeted serums:

  • Hyaluronic acid: used to create a hydrated and supple-looking skin surface. A hyaluronic acid serum is often suitable for dry or dehydrated skin.
  • Niacinamide: found in formulas designed to support hydration, a more even-looking complexion and the skin barrier.
  • Peptides and Matrixyl: used in peptide serums or anti-ageing serums to create a smoother, firmer-looking complexion.
  • Centella asiatica and panthenol: often found in serums for sensitive skin, especially when you want a gentle, hydrating routine.
  • Retinol and retinal: vitamin A derivatives. A retinol serum is generally introduced gradually and preferably used in the evening. The product information may include additional warnings, for example regarding sun sensitivity and pregnancy.

Check the full ingredients list. An ingredient in the product name does not automatically mean that it is present in a high concentration.

Size, packaging and shelf life

Do not compare the price alone; consider the size as well. A 9 ml bottle can be useful for trying out a formula, while 30, 50 or 75 ml may be more practical for daily use. Also check:

  • the expiry date on the packaging;
  • the recommended period after opening, if stated;
  • whether the dispenser limits exposure to air and light;
  • storage instructions, such as keeping the product cool and out of direct sunlight.

Careful storage is particularly important for retinol and retinal products, as their usage instructions often specify particular conditions.

Use and combining with other products

Apply a serum after cleansing and before moisturiser. During the day, sunscreen should be part of a routine containing retinol, retinal or other formulas for which the manufacturer recommends additional sun protection. Do not combine several potent active ingredients straight away if you do not yet know how your skin will react.

Our recommendations for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum Green Tea Panthenol

Beauty Of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A lightweight Korean formula for anyone who wants to start using a hydrating serum without retinol or a spicule texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information states that it contains 30 ml, has a fragrance-free formula and should be used at a dosage of 2 to 3 drops. This makes it easier to estimate the cost per use and dosage in advance.

Key benefit & highlights

Contains green tea water, 5% panthenol, centella asiatica and sodium hyaluronate according to the ingredients list.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30 ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for anyone looking for an established premium formula for day and night use, and wanting to build a more extensive routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details state the size, recommended times of use, oil-free formula and fragrance-free formula. This allows you to base your choice on concrete features rather than advertising claims alone.

Key benefit & highlights

Contains hyaluronic acid and a tripeptide according to the product information; available in 30 ml and 75 ml.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9 ml

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9 ml

Why it suits this profile: For users who deliberately want to introduce a retinol serum and are prepared to build up the frequency gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The usage instructions recommend a patch test, starting with 2 to 3 applications per week and using the product only in the evening. The warnings about pregnancy, irritation and sun protection are clearly stated.

Key benefit & highlights

Contains retinol, retinal, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol and centella asiatica according to the ingredients list; size 9 ml.

Suitable for: Dry or mature skin
Martiderm SHOT COLLAGEN LIFT 20 ml

Martiderm SHOT COLLAGEN LIFT 20 ml

Why it suits this profile: An option for anyone looking for a lightweight firming serum containing collagen as part of their daily routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details state that it contains 20 ml, has a lightweight texture and can be used for 12 months after opening. Always check the current packaging as well.

Key benefit & highlights

Contains 1% biotech collagen and lupeol according to the product description; suitable for several skin types according to the product specifications.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

First cleanse your face, then apply a few drops of serum. Follow with a moisturiser. Use retinol or retinal products according to the instructions on the packaging, usually in the evening. During the day, sun protection is important when recommended in the product information.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

That depends on the size and dosage. A 9 ml bottle will last less time with sparing use than a 30 or 50 ml version. Products for which 2 to 3 drops are recommended are easier to compare based on size and frequency of use.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Look for a short, clear ingredients list and initially avoid formulas containing several intensive active ingredients. A centella asiatica serum or formula containing panthenol may be a practical choice. Always test a small amount first and stop using it if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation.