Joybuy Insights

How to choose a face serum without falling for marketing claims: find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. But it’s best not to rely on claims such as “glow”, “intensive repair” or “anti-ageing” alone. The formula, concentration, packaging and directions for use all have a much bigger impact on whether a serum suits your routine.

Three common face serum pitfalls

1. A high concentration isn’t automatically right for you

A vitamin C serum with 23% ascorbic acid or a formula with 10% azelaic acid may be worth considering for targeted use, but concentrations like these need to be introduced gradually. A potent formula may cause stinging or redness, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

So start with a small amount and try any new product on a small area of skin first. Always check the current ingredients list on the packaging.

2. “For all skin types” doesn’t tell you if it’s right for you

A hydrating serum without strong acids may suit many skin types. That doesn’t mean every formula is suitable for skin that reacts easily to fragrance, alcohol, essential oils or retinol.

So check the full ingredients list. For example, a serum for blemish-prone skin may contain niacinamide, salicylic acid or propolis, while a serum for redness often contains centella, panthenol or azelaic acid. The presence of an ingredient doesn’t guarantee a particular result.

3. Unclear shelf life can lead to waste

Active ingredients such as retinol and pure vitamin C are sensitive to light, heat and air. Some products need to be stored in a cool, dark place. The product information for Vitamin C23 Anti aging serum even recommends keeping it in the fridge and using it within two months of opening.

When buying, check:

  • the expiry date and batch information;
  • the recommended period after opening;
  • whether it has a pump bottle or a tightly sealed dropper;
  • storage advice on the packaging;
  • any changes in colour or smell, or separation.

Which factors should you check?

1. Start with your skin concern

Don’t choose a serum just because it’s trending. Match it to one clear goal:

  • Dry or dehydrated skin: choose a hydrating serum with glycerin, panthenol, beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid or squalane.
  • Sensitive skin or visible redness: look for a serum for redness with centella asiatica, madecassoside, allantoin or a gently formulated dose of azelaic acid.
  • Dull-looking skin: a glow serum or vitamin C serum may be a good fit. Check the type and concentration of vitamin C.
  • Uneven skin tone: a serum for dark spots may contain ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, niacinamide or tranexamic acid. Always use sun protection during the day.
  • Fine lines and skin texture: an anti-ageing serum with retinol, retinal, peptides or adenosine usually needs to be introduced gradually.
  • Blemishes: a niacinamide serum, a formula with BHA or a lightweight K-beauty serum may be worth considering, but avoid layering several exfoliating products.

2. Check the active ingredients and how often to use the product

A retinol serum is generally used in the evening. The product information for ANUA Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum recommends starting slowly and using sun protection during the day. Don’t automatically combine retinol with a vitamin C serum, AHA, BHA or other potent active ingredients in the same routine.

If you’re new to serums, a simple routine is easier to follow:

  1. cleanse;
  2. toner, if you use one;
  3. one face serum;
  4. moisturiser;
  5. sun protection during the day.

3. Consider the size, texture and packaging

A 20 or 30 ml bottle is handy if you want to try an active product first. A 55 or 100 ml ampoule may offer better value if you use a simple hydrating product every day. Also consider the texture: a watery centella ampoule feels different from an oil-based formula with exfoliating acids.

The product name alone isn’t enough. Always check the net volume and make sure the ingredients on the product match the online information. Ingredients may change.

Our recommendations for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward K-beauty serum with a watery texture and 30 ml size, ideal if you want to try a gentle product first.

How this product avoids the pitfall

According to the product information, the formula is built around one key ingredient, so you introduce fewer different active ingredients at once.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml size, lightweight texture and centella asiatica listed as the main ingredient.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 50ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 50ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone looking for a larger size and a versatile hydrating focus in an established serum category.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists a 50 ml size, an oil-free formula and suitability for all skin types. Check the current packaging for the definitive information.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml size, a hydrating focus and, according to the product description, use in the morning and evening.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone specifically looking for a serum for redness with azelaic acid, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The directions recommend starting with 1–2 drops, 1–2 times a week. This helps you avoid using a high concentration of active ingredients every day straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid, 30 ml size and additional ingredients such as panthenol, allantoin and ceramide NP.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
ANUA Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum 30ml

ANUA Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone looking to add a retinol serum with niacinamide, ceramides and hydrating ingredients to their evening routine as part of a targeted skincare plan.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information recommends evening use, a patch test and gradual introduction. Sun protection is needed during the day. If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, it’s best to consult a healthcare professional.

Key benefit & highlights

0.3% retinol, niacinamide and several ceramides in a 30 ml serum.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and current European safety regulations.

Face serum FAQs

How do you apply a face serum?

Apply a few drops after cleansing and, if you use one, after toner. Gently smooth the product over your face and neck, then finish with a moisturiser. Use sun protection during the day, especially when using retinol, vitamin C or exfoliating acids.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

It depends on the size and how much you use. A 30 ml bottle will usually last longer with daily use than if you apply it generously. Stick to the recommended amount and check the shelf life after opening. A product with a short period of use after opening may be less cost-effective if you don’t use it regularly.

Can you use several serums together?

Sometimes, but don’t automatically combine several formulas with active ingredients. For example, you could use a hydrating serum alongside a gentle niacinamide formula, but take care with retinol, high-concentration vitamin C, AHA and BHA. Introduce one new product at a time so you can better assess how your skin responds.