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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a practical addition to your daily skincare routine. The texture is usually lightweight, and the formula often contains specific ingredients for hydration, a dull-looking complexion or an unsettled skin surface. However, every serum is different. An expensive product is not automatically better suited to your skin, and a long ingredients list says little about how pleasant it will be to use every day.

The biggest disappointments usually stem from three common pitfalls:

  • Too many promises on the packaging: words such as “glow”, “lifting” or “repair” often describe a desired appearance, not a guaranteed result.
  • An active ingredient without a usage plan: a vitamin C serum, azelaic acid serum or retinol product may be less suitable if you apply it too often or use too much.
  • Looking only at the concentration: a high percentage is not the only relevant factor. The complete formula, texture and warnings also help determine whether the product fits into your routine.

Which features should you check?

1. Choose the main focus of your routine

Start with one clear need. For dry or dehydrated skin, a hydrating serum, a hyaluronic acid serum or a beta-glucan serum may be a sensible choice. Hyaluronic acid, glycerine, panthenol and beta-glucan are examples of moisture-binding ingredients found in various formulas.

For dull-looking skin, you could look for ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives or alpha-arbutin. A vitamin C serum is not always the same as a serum containing pure ascorbic acid, so check the exact INCI list on the packaging.

If your main concerns are an uneven complexion or visible redness, you could consider an azelaic acid serum. ANUA’s product information states that it contains 10% azelaic acid and recommends starting gradually. This makes the recommended frequency of use more important when choosing a product than simply looking at the ingredient name.

2. Consider tolerance and supporting ingredients

A serum for sensitive skin does not necessarily have the same characteristics as a serum for blemish-prone skin. Check the following:

  • whether fragrance or alcohol appears in the ingredients list;
  • whether the product recommends a patch test;
  • which warnings apply around the eyes, damaged skin or sunlight;
  • whether soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica, allantoin or panthenol are included;
  • whether the texture suits your routine: gel, lotion, essence or a slightly richer formula.

According to the product information, MEDICUBE PDRN Pink Peptide Serum contains fragrance. This is relevant if you prefer to avoid fragrance. Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop, on the other hand, is described as fragrance-free. Always check the packaging again, as ingredients or packaging may change.

3. Use the right amount and apply it in the correct order

The usual order is:

  1. Cleanse your face.
  2. Use toner if desired.
  3. Apply a small amount of serum.
  4. Finish with a moisturiser.
  5. Use sun protection during the day when recommended for the formula.

Using more serum will not automatically speed up the results. With active formulas, it is sensible to build up gradually. According to the product description, the ANUA formula recommends starting with 1–2 drops, once or twice a week. A retinol serum requires extra care regarding sunlight. Do not use the product on irritated or damaged skin, and stop using it if irritation persists.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
iUNIK Beta-Glucan Power Moisture Serum, 50 ml

iUNIK Beta-Glucan Power Moisture Serum, 50 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone who mainly wants to add moisture without immediately combining several active ingredients. According to the product information, the formula contains beta-glucan and is designed as a hydrating serum.

How this product avoids the pitfall

You do not need to buy several serums with strong actives straight away. Start with one hydrating step, then assess how your skin responds.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml; beta-glucan as the key ingredient; suitable for applying after cleansing and toner.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum Ginseng Snail Mucin 30 ml

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this gel texture combines ginseng root water, 3% snail mucin filtrate, niacinamide, centella asiatica and hyaluronic acid.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list is clearly stated. This allows you to check whether the formula suits your preferences, rather than relying solely on terms such as “revive” or “firming”.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; pump bottle; gel texture; contains several hydrating ingredients, including sodium hyaluronate.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30 ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Designed for users who are specifically looking for an azelaic acid serum and are prepared to build up usage gradually. The formula also contains panthenol, glycerine, beta-glucan, centella and ceramide NP.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions mention gradual introduction, patch testing and daily sun protection. This helps prevent overuse of an active formula.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid according to the product information; 30 ml; contains hydrating and nourishing supporting ingredients.

Looking for more options?

We have compiled a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Apply the serum after cleansing and, if desired, after toner. Use the amount stated on the packaging and finish with a moisturiser. Introduce active ingredients gradually. During the day, sun protection should be part of your routine when recommended in the product information, for example with a formula containing retinol or azelaic acid.

How long does a serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening stated on the packaging. Store the product in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, and close the bottle securely. A serum may change more quickly when exposed to heat, light or air. Look out for changes in smell, colour or texture, and stop using the product if it causes clear irritation.

How much does a good face serum cost?

The price depends on the size, brand, ingredients and packaging. Compare the price per millilitre and check that the formula you are buying genuinely suits your goal. A large serum with a simple hydrating formula may work out cheaper than several small products that partly duplicate the same function.