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Choosing a face serum: a practical guide to acne, pigmentation and hydration

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. Its lightweight texture often contains a higher concentration of certain ingredients than a regular cream. However, a long ingredients list doesn’t automatically mean a product is right for your skin. If you go by terms such as “glow”, “anti-ageing” or “intensive action” alone, you could easily end up buying a serum that’s too strong, unnecessarily complicated or difficult to combine with other products.

In this guide, we explain what to look for in a serum for pigmentation, serum for acne, retinol serum, vitamin C serum or hydrating serum. Then we’ll match some popular choices to different skincare needs.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Mistaking a high concentration for a better choice

A percentage tells you how much of an ingredient a product contains, but it doesn’t tell you on its own whether it’s right for your skin. For example, a niacinamide serum with 10% niacinamide might suit someone who’s already used to active skincare, while sensitive skin may benefit from a simpler formula.

As well as the concentration, check the other ingredients, how often to use the product and any warnings on the packaging.

2. Using too many active ingredients at once

Combining a vitamin C serum, retinol serum, azelaic acid serum and exfoliant may sound like a targeted approach, but it can make your routine unnecessarily harsh. Acids, retinol and products with a high concentration of vitamin C in particular should be introduced gradually.

Ideally, start with one new product at a time. That way, it’s easier to see how your skin responds.

3. Skipping sun protection

Product information for products containing retinol, AHA, BHA or azelaic acid often recommends using sun protection during the day. This advice isn’t a substitute for medical guidance, but it’s a practical part of a skincare routine. A serum for pigmentation is also unlikely to be much help if you don’t take your daily exposure to UV rays into account.

Which specifications should you check before buying?

Ingredients to suit your skincare goal

Start by identifying your main skincare need:

  • Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramides and lipids. A hydrating serum usually works well under a cream.
  • Blemish-prone or oily skin: look for niacinamide, salicylic acid, tea tree or azelaic acid. Also check whether the product is described as non-comedogenic.
  • Pigmentation and a dull complexion: vitamin C, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin and certain vitamin C derivatives are commonly used.
  • Fine lines: retinol and retinal are forms of vitamin A. These ingredients should be introduced gradually and used according to the label.
  • Redness or a weakened skin barrier: choose a formula containing ingredients such as centella, panthenol, bisabolol, ceramides or barrier-supporting lipids.

Claims such as “visibly more even-looking” or “less redness” come from the brand’s product description. Don’t treat them as guaranteed results. If you have persistent acne, severe redness or changes in pigmentation, it’s best to speak to a GP or dermatologist.

Concentration, size and shelf life

Check whether the serum comes in 30 ml, 20 ml or a larger size. A small bottle used frequently may run out sooner than you expect. Also check how long it lasts after opening, for example 12M, and store the product as directed.

Packaging and storage are particularly important for vitamin C and retinoids. A pump bottle or well-sealed container can be useful if you want to limit exposure to light and air.

Texture and how it combines with other products

A watery serum often layers easily under a moisturiser and sun cream. An oil serum may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but it has a heavier texture. If you’re looking for a serum for sensitive skin, also check the ingredients list for fragrance, alcohol or known allergens.

Recommended face serums for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum 30 ml

The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice if you want to add hydration and comfort before introducing several strong active ingredients.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists ingredients including niacinamide, bisabolol, lipids and ceramide-like ingredients. Always check the current packaging and ingredients list.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, a fluid texture and product claims such as fragrance-free, alcohol-free and suitable for sensitive skin, according to the product information.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A good fit if you’re looking for a Korean skincare serum with a gel-like texture and a combination of propolis and niacinamide.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information gives specific amounts: 60% propolis extract and 2% niacinamide. This makes it easier to compare than relying on the term “glow” alone.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, a light, honey-like texture and ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, tea tree and centella, according to the listed formulation.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

Why it suits this profile: Aimed at shoppers looking for a serum for pigmentation and post-acne marks who are used to comparing ingredients and percentages.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid. Checking this information in advance helps you avoid buying a product with an unclear formulation.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, a pump bottle and additional ingredients such as alpha arbutin, hyaluronic acid and panthenol. Use a sun cream during the day.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that meet these strict selection criteria and comply with current European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you apply a face serum?

Cleanse your face first and use toner if you wish. Then apply a few drops of serum, followed by a moisturiser. If you use the serum in the morning, finish with sun cream. Always follow the specific instructions when using active ingredients.

How long does a serum last?

It varies from product to product. Check the best-before date and the period after opening, for example 12 months. If recommended on the packaging, store the bottle somewhere cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but it’s best to start with one product at a time. Don’t automatically combine retinol, AHA, BHA, vitamin C and azelaic acid in the same routine. If you have sensitive skin, alternating products at different times is often simpler than applying everything at once.