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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. The product is usually lightweight and contains ingredients designed to address a specific concern, such as dehydration, a dull appearance, visible pigmentation or fine lines. However, an expensive serum is not automatically the right choice for your skin.

Joybuy Product Recommendation Officer helps you reduce marketing claims to verifiable information. Pay particular attention to the ingredients list, directions for use and the properties actually stated on the packaging or product page.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage does not tell you everything

A niacinamide serum containing 15% niacinamide may sound powerful, but a high concentration can feel less comfortable on some skin types. Also look at the rest of the formula, including hydrating ingredients, fragrance, alcohol and supporting ingredients.

Serums for pigmentation, for example, may contain niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin or vitamin C. These ingredients have different properties and are not interchangeable. According to Medicube’s own product information, the TXA Niacinamide 15 Serum contains 15% niacinamide and tranexamic acid. This is verifiable product information; it does not mean that every user will see the same results.

2. “For all skin types” does not mean every ingredient will suit you

A product may be described by the brand as suitable for all skin types, while your skin may, for example, react sensitively to fragrance, retinol or a high concentration of vitamin C. Always check the complete INCI list.

A serum for sensitive skin should ideally have a simple formula without unnecessary fragrance ingredients. Test a new product on a small area of skin first. Stop using it if persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation occurs, and ask a doctor or dermatologist for advice if you are unsure.

3. Anti-ageing claims are sometimes interpreted too broadly

An anti-ageing serum may contain ingredients such as retinol, retinal, peptides, adenosine or hyaluronic acid. Each of these substances has a different function in a cosmetic formula. Claims such as “stimulates collagen” or “repairs the skin” are brand claims and should not be interpreted as guaranteed results.

According to Estée Lauder’s own product information, Advanced Night Repair contains hyaluronic acid and the brand’s proprietary Chronolux Power Signal Technology, among other ingredients. The product description refers to hydration and smoother-looking skin. Before buying, also check the expiry information and the period after opening.

Three important points to check

1. Start by identifying your skin concern

Do not use a serum simply because an ingredient is popular. Match your choice to one or two specific goals:

  • Dry skin: look for glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, beta-glucan or ceramides. A serum for dry skin often feels more comfortable when combined with a cream that helps retain moisture.
  • Dull skin or an uneven complexion: look for niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, vitamin C derivatives or tranexamic acid. A serum for a more even complexion is not a substitute for sun protection.
  • Fine lines and loss of firmness: peptides, retinol and retinal are often found in formulas for mature skin. Introduce retinoids gradually.
  • Sensitive or reactive skin: choose a formula with few potentially irritating ingredients and do not use several powerful active ingredients at the same time.
  • Blemishes: check whether the formula contains, for example, salicylic acid and follow the warnings. Cosmetics are not a substitute for medical treatment.

2. Check both the concentration and the usage advice

With a vitamin C serum, it is important to know which form of vitamin C it contains. Vitamin C23, for example, states that it contains 23% ascorbic acid. The product information recommends a patch test, cool storage and use within two months of opening to help preserve product quality. The description also advises using highly concentrated active ingredients, such as retinol, at a different time.

A retinol serum or retinal product requires extra care. Start by using it infrequently, generally apply it in the evening and wear sun protection during the day. SKIN1004’s product information states that Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule also contains retinal and recommends gradually increasing usage. The product is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding without advice from a healthcare professional.

3. Pay attention to the packaging, amount and shelf life

Do not compare the price alone; consider the amount as well. Many serums contain 20 or 30 ml, while a booster may contain 150 ml and an eye serum just 10 ml. Also check:

  • the type of packaging: a pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers;
  • the period after opening, often indicated by, for example, 12M;
  • the expiry information on the packaging;
  • the responsible person within the EU;
  • warnings concerning the eyes, damaged skin, pregnancy and sunlight.

Cosmetic products sold in the EU must include safety information and an ingredients list, among other requirements. Check the packaging when your order arrives and store the serum according to the manufacturer’s advice.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum Ginseng Snail Mucin 30 ml

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and ingredients such as glycerine, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica suit a simple routine for dry, normal or combination skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists specific ingredients and skin types rather than making only a general anti-ageing promise.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, pump bottle, alcohol-free and vegan according to the product details.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30 ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Ideal for anyone looking for an evening routine with a serum for hydration and visible signs of skin ageing, without oil in the formula.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product page lists the amount, skin type, fragrance-free and oil-free formulation, as well as the recommended application, so you can base your choice on more than the brand name.

Key benefit & advantages

Contains hyaluronic acid; suitable for all skin types and fragrance-free according to the product details.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
Anua Niacinamide 10% TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone specifically looking for a serum for pigmentation, an uneven complexion or visible marks left by blemishes.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula states the concentrations of niacinamide and TXA, along with the warning to stop using it if irritation occurs. This makes comparison easier.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the product details; also contains hyaluronic acid and alpha-arbutin.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for a Korean face serum with peptides
Cosrx The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 ml

The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 150 ml

Why it suits this profile: The large bottle is ideal for users who want to apply a hydrating serum every day after cleansing and before moisturiser.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list names six peptides, niacinamide, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate. You can therefore see which substances the booster formula contains.

Key benefit & advantages

150 ml, suitable for all skin types according to the product details and intended for morning and evening use.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face and apply the serum to dry or slightly damp skin, depending on the directions for use. Follow with a moisturiser. During the day, sun protection should be the final step in your routine. Apply retinol and retinal serums in the evening and start by using them infrequently.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

This depends on the amount, dosage and frequency of use. A 30 ml bottle may last from several weeks to several months with daily use. Always check the period after opening and store vitamin C or retinol products as indicated on the packaging.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but do not immediately combine several powerful active ingredients. For example, do not use a highly concentrated vitamin C serum, retinol serum and exfoliating product in the same routine without preparing your skin first. Introduce one new product at a time, test the formula first and follow the manufacturer’s warnings.