Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful addition when you want to target hydration, a dull complexion, visible redness or fine lines. However, it is not advisable to rely solely on a striking promise on the packaging. The concentration, combination of ingredients and instructions for use determine whether a serum fits logically into your routine.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage does not automatically mean a better choice

A product containing 10%, 23% or 0.5% of an active ingredient may sound appealing, but more is not always more practical. A high concentration can cause dryness, stinging or flaking more quickly. This can apply to a vitamin C serum, retinol serum or azelaic acid serum, for example.

So do not look only at the percentage. Also consider:

• the other hydrating ingredients;
• the recommended frequency for building up use;
• warnings on the packaging;
• the shelf life after opening;
• how the product should be stored.

2. Marketing claims are sometimes interpreted as guarantees

Words such as “glow”, “repair” or “calming” often describe a product’s positioning, but they do not guarantee personal results. According to Estée Lauder’s own product information, Advanced Night Repair supports overnight skincare and may help reduce the appearance of fine lines. This does not mean that every skin type will experience the same results.

Use claims as a reason to examine the ingredients and application, rather than as a substitute for realistic expectations.

3. Using too many active products at once

Using a niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum, exfoliant and retinol serum in the same routine can become unnecessarily complicated. If you have sensitive or blemish-prone skin, it is often wiser to introduce one new product at a time. This makes it easier to see how your skin reacts and prevents you from losing track of which product is causing irritation.

Which features should you check?

1. Start by choosing according to your skin’s needs

A hydrating serum often contains humectants such as glycerine, panthenol, betaine or hyaluronic acid. These ingredients are suitable if your skin feels tight or dry, but they do not replace a moisturiser.

For visible redness, you could look for a serum for redness containing ingredients such as Centella Asiatica, madecassoside, panthenol or allantoin. Bear in mind, however, that “soothing” is a cosmetic description and does not imply a medical effect.

For an uneven complexion or visible dark spots, ingredients including niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and vitamin C are commonly used. A serum for dark spots also does not work independently of daily sun protection. During the day, a sun protection product with an appropriate SPF is an important step.

2. Check the full ingredients list

Look beyond the ingredient shown on the front. A formula may, for example, combine several hydrating substances with ceramides or botanical extracts. If you have sensitive skin, it is also worth checking whether the product contains fragrance, alcohol or other ingredients you have reacted to in the past.

Ingredients can change. Always check the list on the packaging. For the ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum, the product information lists, among other ingredients, 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, Centella extracts and Ceramide NP. The manufacturer recommends building up use gradually and carrying out a patch test first if you have sensitive skin.

3. Consider texture, volume and shelf life

A watery serum generally absorbs differently from an oil or a rich ampoule. This matters if you use several layers or want to wear a product under make-up. Also compare the volume: 20, 30, 50 or 100 ml can make a significant difference to how long the product lasts and its price per millilitre.

Store a vitamin C serum or other sensitive product according to the packaging instructions. For example, the Vitamin C23 serum lists a high concentration of ascorbic acid and recommends cool storage. For every product, the official packaging and instructions for use remain the definitive guide.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its straightforward positioning as a hydrating Centella ampoule makes it an accessible starting point for anyone who is new to active serums.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information focuses on one recognisable ingredient and hydration, rather than a long list of strong actives.

Key benefit & highlights

55 ml volume; lightweight ampoule texture; Centella Asiatica as the key ingredient.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30ml

Why it suits this profile: Ideal if you are looking for a well-known anti-ageing serum formula with hydration as a regular part of your morning and evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details clearly state 30 ml, an oil-free formula and suitability for all skin types. Do check the current packaging before buying.

Key benefit & highlights

Hyaluronic acid in the product description; oil-free; suitable for the face and neck.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable if you are specifically looking for a serum for redness or a formula containing azelaic acid and hydrating ingredients.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions recommend building up use gradually. This helps prevent you from using too many drops or applications straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid according to the product information; panthenol, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate; 30 ml volume.

How to use a serum in your routine

A simple order of application helps prevent you from needing too many products:

1. Cleanse your face and gently pat the skin dry.
2. Apply toner if you use one.
3. Apply one to a few drops of serum, depending on the label.
4. Finish with a moisturiser.
5. Use sun protection during the day, particularly when using active ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C or azelaic acid.

A Korean skincare serum or ampoule usually goes between toner and moisturiser. Do not immediately combine several strong formulas. If you are using a serum for sensitive skin, a patch test is advisable. Stop using the product if irritation persists and follow the safety information on the packaging.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

Which face serum is suitable for dry skin?

Choose a hydrating serum with ingredients such as glycerine, panthenol, betaine or hyaluronic acid. Follow with a moisturiser to help lock in moisture. An oil-based texture can feel pleasant on dry skin, while a gel serum often feels lighter.

How long does a face serum last after opening?

This varies from product to product. Check the symbol on the packaging, the best-before date and any instructions from the manufacturer. Some vitamin C products require extra care, such as cool, dark storage. Has the scent, colour or texture changed? Use the packaging as your guide and, if in doubt, do not take the risk.

Can I use niacinamide, vitamin C and retinol together?

This can work in some routines, but it is not always necessary to apply them at the same time. Start with one active product and build up gradually. You can also spread the ingredients across your morning and evening routines. Use sun protection during the day and always follow the specific warnings for the serum you have chosen.