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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a simple addition to your routine, but the wide range of options can make choosing difficult. Are you looking for a Korean face serum, a hydrating serum or a serum for pigmentation? You will quickly come across terms such as “glow”, “deep hydration” and “anti-ageing”. On their own, these words say little about the formula or how to use it.

That is why you should focus mainly on the ingredients list, the concentration of active ingredients and the instructions for use. This helps you avoid buying a product that does not suit your skin type or ends up unused in the cupboard after just a few applications.

Common pitfalls when choosing a serum for your skin

1. Mistaking a long ingredients list for a powerful formula

More ingredients do not automatically mean that a serum is better suited to your skin. A formula containing several active ingredients may actually be more difficult to combine with other products. Start by considering the purpose:

  • Hyaluronic acid and glycerine are often used in a hydrating serum.
  • Niacinamide is generally chosen for a more even-looking complexion and to support the skin barrier.
  • Vitamin C, tranexamic acid and alpha-arbutin are found in serums aimed at dull skin or visible pigmentation.
  • Peptides are popular in a peptide serum for a caring anti-ageing routine.
  • Retinal and retinol are vitamin A ingredients that require extra care when introducing them and when using sun protection.

Brands may promote the effects of these ingredients based on their own research. According to a brand’s own research, such results are not automatically the same for every user. You should therefore also assess the concentration, texture and safety information.

2. Using an active ingredient without building up gradually

A retinol serum or retinal formula is not always suitable for daily use from the first day. According to the product information, the celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER contains 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000. The recommended approach is to use the formula every other evening during the first two weeks.

A serum containing 10% azelaic acid, such as the ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum, also requires gradual introduction according to the product information. Start with one or two drops, once or twice a week, and only increase the frequency if your skin tolerates it well.

3. Focusing only on the promised result

A serum for spots, redness or pigmentation does not replace a complete skincare routine. A lightweight gel texture can feel comfortable on oily or blemish-prone skin, while drier skin may benefit more from glycerine, ceramides, panthenol or several forms of hyaluronic acid.

Also check whether a formula contains fragrance, alcohol or exfoliating ingredients. This does not necessarily mean that a product is unsuitable, but it can be important if your skin reacts easily.

Which specifications should you check?

Skin type and texture

A watery or gel-like formula usually absorbs quickly and feels lightweight. This often suits oily skin or use underneath sun cream and make-up. A richer formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin, especially when combined with a moisturiser.

When choosing a serum for sensitive skin, check the warnings, fragrance information and recommended introduction schedule. Test a new product on a small area of skin first. Stop using it if irritation persists and ask a doctor or pharmacist for advice if in doubt.

Active ingredients and concentrations

Do not just look at the name on the front. Check the ingredients list and the percentage when this is provided. Examples:

  • Hyaluronic acid serum: designed to bind moisture and leave skin feeling supple.
  • Niacinamide serum: suitable for routines focused on sebum, uneven skin tone and the skin barrier.
  • Vitamin C serum: check whether it contains ascorbic acid or a vitamin C derivative.
  • Peptide serum: check which peptides are actually listed in the ingredients.
  • Retinol or retinal serum: preferably use in the evening and apply sun cream during the day.

When to use it, shelf life and packaging

You will usually use a face serum after cleansing and, if applicable, after toner, before moisturiser. Some formulas are suitable for morning and evening use; retinal and retinol are generally recommended for evening use in the product information.

Store serums in a cool place away from direct sunlight when instructed on the packaging. Check the expiry date, batch number and period after opening on the packaging. It is best not to continue using an open bottle if its smell, colour or texture changes.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone starting with a daily hydrating serum. According to the product information, the formula is suitable for all skin types and has a lightweight texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list focuses on hydration with glycerine and sodium hyaluronate, without a long series of strongly exfoliating actives.

Main benefit & key features

30 ml, lightweight lotion texture, with hyaluronic acid and white water lily; dermatologically tested according to the product information.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

Why it suits this profile: For users who specifically want to add a retinal serum to their evening routine and are prepared to build up the frequency gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The packaging recommends starting every other evening, using a small amount of product and applying it less often if irritation occurs. Sun cream is required during the day.

Main benefit & key features

0.1% pure retinal, 3% Matrixyl 3000 and 15 ml contents; intended for use at night.

Suitable for: Targeted care for an uneven complexion
ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A targeted option for anyone wanting to combine niacinamide and tranexamic acid in a routine for an uneven complexion or visible blemishes.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The percentages of niacinamide and TXA are clearly stated. This makes it easier to distinguish the product from serums that only use general glow-related terms.

Main benefit & key features

10% niacinamide, 4% tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and several forms of hyaluronic acid in a 30 ml bottle.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

How to use a face serum in practice

  1. Cleanse your face and gently pat the skin dry.
  2. Apply one to a few drops, depending on the instructions for use.
  3. Do not use all active formulas at the same time. Start with one new product.
  4. Finish with a moisturiser to help lock in moisture.
  5. Apply sun cream with suitable protection during the day, especially when using retinal, retinol, vitamin C or exfoliating ingredients.

Also pay attention to the order of application. A lightweight serum usually goes before a richer cream. If you are using several serums, it is best to introduce them one at a time so that you can identify which product your skin tolerates well.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

Can I use a serum every day?

That depends on the ingredients. A simple hyaluronic acid serum or beta-glucan serum is often marketed for daily use. According to the product instructions, retinal, retinol and azelaic acid may require gradual introduction instead. Always follow the label and reduce the frequency if irritation occurs.

How long does a face serum remain suitable for use?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging. Keep the bottle tightly closed and away from direct sunlight. Formulas containing vitamin C or vitamin A ingredients in particular require careful storage. Do not continue using a serum if its smell, colour or texture changes noticeably.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Preferably choose a formula with a short, easy-to-understand ingredients list and check for fragrance, alcohol and strong active ingredients. A patch test is advisable. Products marketed as suitable for sensitive skin are no guarantee that every skin type will tolerate them without problems. Introduce a serum gradually and stop using it if persistent redness, itching or a burning sensation occurs.