Choosing a face serum: a practical guide to skin type, ingredients and use

A face serum can be a useful addition to your daily routine, but the sheer choice can make it difficult to decide. A hydrating serum, niacinamide serum, Korean ampoule or anti-ageing serum may look appealing because of eye-catching claims and lengthy ingredient lists. However, a high concentration or popular ingredient does not automatically mean that the product is right for your skin.

The most common purchasing mistakes are:

• Only looking at the marketing name. Words such as “glow”, “lifting” or “collagen” tell you very little without the full ingredient list and usage instructions.
• Combining too many active ingredients at once. A serum containing niacinamide, acids, retinol or azelaic acid may be more intensive than your daily routine requires.
• Ignoring texture and packaging. A sticky formula often ends up unused. Ingredients that are sensitive to light or heat may also require extra care when storing the product.

Which properties should you check?

1. Start by choosing according to your skin’s needs

Decide what you want to add to your routine with a serum. This prevents you from buying several products with largely the same function.

• Dry or dehydrated skin: look for glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan and different forms of hyaluronic acid. A hyaluronic acid serum mainly works as a moisture-binding step within a routine that includes a moisturiser.
• Normal or dull skin: niacinamide, rice extract or propolis are often found in formulas for an even-skin-tone serum or a radiant-skin serum.
• Sensitive skin: choose a short, easy-to-understand ingredient list and preferably a fragrance-free formula. Test a serum for sensitive skin on a small area of skin first.
• Blemish-prone skin: check whether the formula contains ingredients such as niacinamide, betaine salicylate or azelaic acid. These are cosmetic ingredients; they do not replace treatment of a skin condition by a doctor.
• Mature skin: peptides, adenosine, retinol and hydrating ingredients are often found in an anti-ageing serum, peptide serum or collagen serum. According to a brand’s own research, such ingredients may help support certain visible effects, but the product claim is no guarantee of the same result for every user.

2. Check concentrations and combinations

A percentage is only useful if you know how you intend to use the product. For example, the ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum contains 10% niacinamide and 4% tranexamic acid, according to the product information. This makes the formulation clear, but a formula with higher percentages is not automatically more suitable.

When using active serums, start with a small amount and do not immediately combine them with several exfoliating or highly active products. A patch test is particularly sensible if you have sensitive skin. Stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and seek advice from a healthcare professional if necessary.

Also pay attention to warnings. Products containing retinol can increase sensitivity to sunlight. The MEDICUBE Pdrn Pink Exosome Shot Serum 7500 therefore recommends daily sun protection and avoiding prolonged exposure to the sun. Always follow the instructions on the packaging of the product you buy.

3. Consider texture, size and shelf life

A serum is usually applied after cleansing and, if applicable, toner, and before moisturiser. A few drops are often enough, but the exact amount varies from product to product.

Check the following:

• Size: the selection ranges from 20 ml to 300 ml. A 100 ml or 300 ml bottle can be convenient for everyday use, while 20 or 30 ml is suitable for trying out a formula first.
• Texture: lightweight lotions and ampoules work well under sun cream or make-up. A richer essence may feel more comfortable on dry skin, particularly in the evening.
• Fragrance and alcohol: if you react quickly to fragrances, it may be better to choose a fragrance-free option. Check the ingredient list; “suitable for sensitive skin” is a product description, not a personal guarantee.
• Storage: keep the bottle closed, cool and out of direct sunlight. Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone mainly looking for extra hydration without combining several active serums. The product information states that it is suitable for all skin types and has a lightweight texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredient list is more straightforward than that of many multifunctional formulas. However, bear in mind that the formulation contains fragrance and limonene.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, hyaluronic acid and glycerine, a lightweight lotion texture and, according to the product information, dermatologically tested and non-comedogenic.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for users looking for a Korean serum with a lightweight texture and several hydrating components.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description lists five types of hyaluronic acid and states that the formula is fragrance-free. Check the packaging currently supplied when you receive it.

Key benefit & advantages

50 ml, fragrance-free formulation according to the product information, with panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

ANUA NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% SERUM 30ml

Why it suits this profile: For anyone specifically looking for a serum for pigmentation or an even-skin-tone serum, with a formula that clearly states its percentages.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The concentrations of niacinamide and tranexamic acid are stated. Introduce it gradually and combine it with sun protection during the day.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, fragrance- and alcohol-free according to the product details, with hyaluronic acid, panthenol and centella extract.

How to use a serum in your routine

1. Cleanse your face and gently pat your skin dry.
2. Apply toner if it forms part of your routine.
3. Use one to a few drops of face serum, depending on the product instructions.
4. Apply moisturiser afterwards to help lock in moisture.
5. Use sun protection in the morning, particularly with products containing retinol, acids or ingredients aimed at evening out the complexion.

For example, a centella ampoule can be used as a soothing, hydrating step, while a peptide serum or niacinamide serum has a different focus. Do not add everything at once. This makes it easier to see how your skin reacts to a new product.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

When should you apply a face serum?

Usually after cleansing and toner, but before moisturiser. Follow the instructions on the packaging, as some serums are intended for morning use, evening use or gradual introduction.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

This depends on the size and dosage. A 30 ml bottle can last from several weeks to a few months with daily use. Do not use more than necessary, and check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging.

How much does a good face serum cost?

The price depends, among other things, on the size, ingredients, brand positioning and packaging. So do not compare only the price per bottle; also consider the amount per millilitre, the concentrations and whether the serum suits your skin’s needs. An affordable product that you use consistently may be more practical than an expensive serum that remains unused.