Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum often contains a higher concentration of active ingredients than a standard cream. That may sound appealing, but impressive packaging or promises don’t automatically mean a formula is right for your skin. Comparing your options carefully can help you avoid disappointing purchases and choose more easily between an anti-ageing serum, a hydrating serum or a formula for pigmentation and blemishes.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. Mistaking marketing claims for guaranteed results

Words such as “lifting”, “detox” and “anti-pollution” sound convincing, but they don’t always mean the same thing. A brand might claim, for example, that a serum reduces wrinkles or firms the skin. Don’t treat such claims as a guarantee: according to the brand’s own research, results may have been measured under specific test conditions.

So, focus on information you can check:

• the full ingredients list, also known as the INCI list;
• the skin type the product is recommended for;
• when to use it: morning, evening or both;
• the size, usually 30 ml;
• warnings, expiry information and the period after opening.

2. Using too many active ingredients at once

A serum containing vitamin C, acids, retinol and exfoliating ingredients may seem versatile, but combining them can feel uncomfortable on your skin. Start with one new product and use a small amount. For sensitive skin, a simple, fragrance-free formula is often a practical choice.

With a serum for blemish-prone skin, “more” isn’t always better either. Niacinamide, propolis, panthenol or hyaluronic acid may work well in a routine, but a product with several exfoliating ingredients calls for a cautious approach.

3. Mistaking hydration for complete skin protection

A hyaluronic acid serum can leave your skin feeling more comfortable and smooth. However, it doesn’t replace a day cream or sunscreen. If you want to help reduce pigmentation or visible signs of ageing, it’s a good idea to use a suitable SPF during the day. An SPF 30 serum has a clear product specification, but always check the instructions and the amount to apply.

Which specifications matter?

1. Choose ingredients to suit your goals

• Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane or different forms of hyaluronic acid. These are often found in a hydrating serum.
• Dull skin or uneven skin tone: vitamin C, niacinamide and antioxidant ingredients are often found in an antioxidant serum or vitamin C serum.
• Pigmentation: look for niacinamide, gluconolactone or vitamin C derivatives. A serum for pigmentation should also be paired with consistent protection from sunlight.
• Fine lines and loss of firmness: peptides, Q10, retinol and hyaluronic acid are often used in an anti-wrinkle serum or a serum for firmer-looking skin.
• Blemishes: niacinamide, PHA and soothing ingredients such as panthenol or centella may suit blemish-prone skin.

An ingredient’s position in the INCI list gives you an idea of the formula, but not always its exact concentration. Manufacturers don’t usually have to disclose concentrations in full.

2. Check tolerance and texture

A lightweight gel texture works well under make-up, while a richer formula may feel more comfortable on dry skin. If your skin is reactive, look out for fragrance, alcohol denat. and essential oils. This doesn’t automatically mean a product won’t suit you, but these are ingredients worth considering when comparing options.

If you’re trying a new product, you could test it on a small area of skin first. Stop using it if irritation persists, and avoid contact with your eyes unless the product is specifically designed for use around them.

3. Check the packaging and shelf life

Antioxidants and vitamin C derivatives are sensitive to light and air. A well-sealed pump bottle or dark packaging can be practical. Always check the shelf-life information on the packaging. The symbol showing, for example, 12M indicates how long the product can be used after opening.

Recommended face serums for different needs

Suitable for: Beginners on a budget

The Ordinary Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula combines eight antioxidant technologies, including a vitamin C derivative, ginseng extract and glycerin. It’s a straightforward choice if you’d like to try an antioxidant serum.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information clearly lists the main antioxidants, use in the morning and evening, and a 12-month period after opening.

Key benefits and features

30 ml, suitable for all skin types according to the product details, and vegan according to the listed specifications.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Anti-Wrinkle Repair Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: This fragrance-free formula is designed for mature and ageing skin, and contains ingredients including peptides, caffeine and hyaluronic acid.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details explicitly state that it’s fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. This makes it easier to compare the formula than relying on an anti-ageing promise alone.

Key benefits and features

Fragrance-free formula, 30 ml pump bottle, suitable for the face and neck.

Suitable for: Sensitive skin in need of care

Sensilis ETERNALIST A.G.E total anti-ageing repair serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The product information says it’s suitable for sensitive skin and skin prone to rosacea or couperose. The formula contains ingredients including glycerin, oils and sodium hyaluronate.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The target skin type and dermatological testing on sensitive skin are listed in the product specifications. Always check the current ingredients on the packaging.

Key benefits and features

30 ml, vegan according to the product details, and designed for a nourishing, hydrating routine.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

When should you apply a face serum?

Use your serum after cleansing and before applying a cream or oil. Apply a small amount to your face and, if you wish, your neck. Follow the specific instructions, as some formulas are intended for evening use only.

How long does 30 ml of serum last?

It depends on how much you use and how often. With daily use in the morning and evening, 30 ml will usually last from a few weeks to several months. Don’t automatically use more to get a stronger effect; check the recommended amount on the packaging.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but introduce new products one at a time. Don’t combine several highly active formulas, such as retinol, acids and vitamin C, without taking care. If you experience redness, itching or a burning sensation, stop using the product and give your skin time to settle.