Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful addition to your skincare routine, but not every product suits every skin type. One formula may focus mainly on hydration, while another contains high concentrations of retinol, vitamin C or acids. Eye-catching packaging or a promise of “glow” therefore says little about whether a serum is right for your skin.

Pay particular attention to these three common pitfalls:

1. Mistaking a long ingredients list for a better formula. More ingredients do not automatically mean that a serum will work better. Look at the key active ingredients and their concentration.
2. Using too many active ingredients at once. Combining a retinol serum with a strong vitamin C serum or exfoliating product can make your skin feel uncomfortable. Introduce new products gradually.
3. Confusing skincare with medical treatment. According to the product description, a serum may help reduce the appearance of dry lines, dull-looking skin or an uneven complexion. It does not treat a skin condition.

Which features should you check?

1. Start with your skin concern

Before you buy, decide what you need from your daily routine:

• Dry or tight-feeling skin: choose a hydrating serum with glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol or ceramides.
• Dull skin or an uneven complexion: a vitamin C serum, niacinamide serum or formula with alpha-arbutin may suit this concern.
• Fine lines and loss of firmness: look for a peptide serum, adenosine or a retinol serum. Retinol and retinal should be introduced gradually.
• Pigmentation or post-acne marks: a serum for pigmentation containing niacinamide, tranexamic acid or alpha-arbutin may be a suitable choice.
• Sensitive skin: opt for a short formula without fragrance and test it on a small area of skin first.

Product claims about collagen stimulation, skin repair or reducing wrinkles come from brands or sellers. Do not regard such claims as guaranteed results. A brand’s own research may report certain effects, but your skin may react differently.

2. Check the concentration and frequency of use

A higher percentage is not automatically more suitable. A niacinamide serum with 10% or 15% may appeal to experienced users, but beginners may prefer to start with a milder formula. The same applies to a retinol serum or retinal product.

Consider these practical points:

• Retinol and retinal: usually use only in the evening, introduce gradually and apply sun protection during the day.
• Vitamin C: a formula with 23% ascorbic acid, such as Vitamin C23 Anti aging serum, is highly concentrated. According to the product information, a patch test is recommended and the product should be kept refrigerated.
• Peptides: suitable if you are looking for a serum for fine lines without starting retinoids straight away.
• Niacinamide and tranexamic acid: often chosen for a serum for a more even complexion, but stop using it if irritation occurs and avoid combining unnecessarily many strong products.

3. Consider the texture, packaging and shelf life

A watery formula generally absorbs quickly and works well under sun cream or make-up. A gel serum, such as Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum, can feel comfortable on normal, dry or combination skin. A richer formula is more suitable for dry or mature skin.

Also check:

• the volume, such as 9, 20, 30 or 50 ml;
• the dispensing system, such as a pump bottle or pipette;
• the period after opening;
• the storage instructions on the packaging;
• whether it contains fragrance, alcohol or other ingredients to which you are sensitive.

Use a face serum after cleansing and, if desired, after toner. Finish with a moisturiser. During the day, sun cream should be the final step.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and combination of 3% snail mucin, glycerine, ginseng and hyaluronic acid suit beginners who are mainly looking for hydration and a comfortable feel on the skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information provides clear usage instructions and advises stopping if irritation occurs. No retinoids are listed, helping to keep your routine straightforward.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, pump bottle, gel texture, alcohol-free and, according to the product specifications, suitable for dry, normal and combination skin.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This night serum is designed for users who want to combine hydration, a firmer-looking complexion and care for visible signs of skin ageing in one formula.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product specifications state that it is a fragrance-free, oil-free formula. This makes it easier to assess the composition in advance than with a product that provides little ingredient information.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, contains hyaluronic acid, suitable for all skin types according to the product information and intended for use morning and evening.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This serum specifically targets an uneven complexion, visible marks and dull-looking skin. It suits users who want to build their routine with a clear purpose.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The percentages of niacinamide and tranexamic acid are clearly stated. This helps prevent a highly concentrated formula from being mistaken for a basic serum.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, fragrance-free according to the product specifications, with niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin and several forms of hyaluronic acid.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9 ml

Why it suits this profile: This is a targeted choice for experienced users who want to incorporate retinol and retinal into their evening routine and are prepared to let their skin adjust gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The usage instructions recommend starting 2–3 times a week, performing a patch test and not using it on irritated skin. Medical advice is required during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Key benefit & advantages

9 ml, contains retinol and retinal, with centella, panthenol and hyaluronic acid. The product information recommends an evening routine and daily use of SPF 30 or higher.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face first. Then apply a few drops or one to two pumps to the skin. Follow with a moisturiser. A retinol serum or retinal product is generally used in the evening. During the day, sun cream is important, particularly when using active ingredients that can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

How long does a serum last?

The exact shelf life is stated on the packaging. Check the date and the symbol indicating the period after opening, such as 12M. According to the product information, a vitamin C serum with a high concentration may be particularly sensitive to light, heat and air. Always follow the manufacturer’s storage advice.

How much does a good face serum cost?

The price depends on the brand, volume, concentration and packaging. Do not compare only the price of a bottle; also consider the number of millilitres, the recommended amount per application and the period after opening. A simple formula with hyaluronic acid may be enough for hydration, while a serum for pigmentation or an anti-ageing serum may cost more because of its specific active ingredients.