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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily routine. Its lightweight texture often contains specific ingredients for hydration, a more even-looking complexion, or care for dry and tired skin. However, it is not advisable to rely solely on words such as “glow”, “lifting” or “anti-ageing”. The formula, instructions for use and size determine whether a serum is practical for you.

Common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage does not tell you everything

A product with a striking percentage of niacinamide, retinal or azelaic acid is not automatically suitable for daily use. The overall formula, packaging and your skin’s tolerance all play a part. For example, a wrinkle serum containing retinal or retinol requires a gradual introduction, as well as sun protection during the day.

2. Marketing claims are sometimes interpreted as guarantees

Brands regularly describe their products using terms such as “repairs”, “stimulates collagen” or “reduces wrinkles”. Treat these as claims made by the manufacturer, not as guaranteed results. According to Estée Lauder’s own research, for example, Chronolux Power Signal Technology supports the skin’s natural overnight care process. The verifiable product information mainly consists of the ingredients list, size, instructions for use and warnings.

3. A serum is used incorrectly

Applying more product does not automatically lead to better results. A serum containing retinal, retinol or azelaic acid can feel uncomfortable, especially if you increase use too quickly. A hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid also feels more comfortable when followed by a cream that helps lock in moisture.

Which specifications should you check?

1. Start by choosing your main goal

Match the ingredient to your main skin concern:

  • Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, panthenol, ceramides and a serum with hyaluronic acid.
  • Dull-looking skin or an uneven complexion: a brightening serum with niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives or tranexamic acid may fit into your routine.
  • Stressed-looking or red-looking skin: a soothing serum with centella asiatica, panthenol or azelaic acid is one possible choice. Azelaic acid can cause tingling at first, so introduce it gradually.
  • Fine lines and mature skin: an anti-ageing serum with retinal, retinol, peptides or adenosine is suited to this goal. Its effects vary depending on the formula and your skin.
  • Eye contour: an eye serum is usually formulated more specifically for the thinner skin around the eyes. Always check whether the product is also intended for the entire face.

2. Check the active ingredients and warnings

Read the full ingredients list on the packaging. Pay particular attention to combinations of active ingredients. It is best to use a serum with retinal or retinol according to the brand’s instructions, and not at the same time as several highly active products if your skin is not used to them.

The Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum, for example, lists 2% liposomal retinal in its product information. The formula also contains ginseng extract, niacinamide, macadamia oil, ceramide NP and sodium hyaluronate. According to the product instructions, the serum can be used around the eyes or over the entire face, but contact with the eyes should be avoided.

3. Consider the size, texture and cost per use

A 9 ml bottle can be useful for trying out a targeted formula, but it will run out sooner than a 30 or 50 ml bottle. So do not compare only the purchase price; also consider the size and how much product you need each time.

A thin ampoule usually absorbs quickly and works well under sun cream or make-up. A gel serum or richer serum may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but can feel heavier. For sensitive skin, a patch test and gradual introduction are sensible, regardless of the brand.

Recommended choices for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
OGB Magic Hyaluron Pro Serum 30ml

OGB Magic Hyaluron Pro Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A straightforward choice for anyone mainly looking for hydration and who does not yet have an extensive routine. The product information mentions hyaluronic acid and panthenol, with a formula that the brand says is suitable for all skin types.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description makes its main purpose clear: adding moisture. This means beginners do not need to combine several powerful active ingredients straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml size; hyaluronic acid and panthenol are mentioned in the product information; lightweight, non-sticky texture according to the brand.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30 ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Suitable for anyone looking for a comprehensively described serum for hydration and caring for visible signs of skin ageing. The formula is oil-free and fragrance-free according to the product information.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product details specify application to the face and neck, use in the morning and evening, and a clear position before moisturiser.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml size; hyaluronic acid in the ingredients list; suitable for all skin types according to the product information.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule 9 ml

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule 9 ml

Why it suits this profile: For users specifically looking for a serum with azelaic acid for stressed-looking or uneven skin, and who are prepared to build up their usage gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions for use recommend applying the ampoule every other day during the first week. This helps prevent applying too much active ingredient too soon.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid according to the product information; panthenol, allantoin, centella asiatica and sodium hyaluronate are listed in the ingredients.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

How to use your face serum

Apply the serum after cleansing and, if desired, using a toner. Usually use one to a few drops or one to two pumps, depending on the packaging. Finish with a moisturiser. During the day, sun cream with a suitable protection factor is an essential part of a routine containing retinal, retinol, azelaic acid or brightening active ingredients.

Carry out a patch test before using a new formula. Stop use if you experience persistent redness, swelling, itching or a burning sensation, and follow the safety information on the packaging. A serum is not a substitute for treatment from a doctor or dermatologist.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How often should I use a face serum?

That depends on the ingredients. A hydrating serum with glycerine or hyaluronic acid can often be used daily. It is best to start using a serum with retinal, retinol or azelaic acid a few times a week, increasing the frequency only if your skin tolerates it well.

Can I combine several serums?

You can, but keep your routine simple. For example, combine a hydrating serum with a moisturiser. Be more cautious when using several active formulas, such as a serum with retinal alongside a strong brightening serum or azelaic acid. Check the manufacturer’s instructions and introduce one new product at a time.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

This varies depending on the size and dosage. A 30 ml bottle will generally last longer with daily use than a 9 ml ampoule, but exact usage depends on the number of drops or pumps. Keep the product closed, dry and out of direct sunlight, and check the expiry information on the packaging.