Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful addition to your daily routine, but there’s a huge range to choose from. Hydrating serums, niacinamide serums, vitamin C serums and retinol serums all serve different purposes. If you choose based only on a bold promise on the packaging, you could end up paying for a product that isn’t right for your skin.

The most common pitfalls:

• Assuming a higher concentration is always a better choice. 10% niacinamide isn’t automatically more suitable than a lower concentration. A sensitive skin type may benefit from a simpler formula.
• Treating claims about results as a guarantee. A brand’s own research may suggest that certain ingredients can help create a more even-looking complexion or boost hydration, but cosmetics can’t guarantee a specific result.
• Overlooking the texture and packaging. A sticky serum can end up sitting unused. A dropper that often comes into contact with the skin also requires more attention to hygiene than a pump bottle.

Which features should you check?

1. Choose the active ingredient based on your goal

First, decide what you’d like to improve:

• Dry or tight-feeling skin: a hyaluronic acid serum, beta-glucan serum or other hydrating serum could be a good fit. Also look for glycerine, panthenol and different forms of hyaluronic acid.
• Uneven skin tone or dark spots: look for niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C. A serum for dark spots won’t work in isolation from daily sun protection.
• Visible pores and oilier skin: niacinamide, zinc PCA or a gentle exfoliating ingredient may be worth considering. “Refining pores” usually means making skin texture look more even; pores don’t disappear.
• Fine lines and mature skin: an anti-ageing serum with peptides, a retinal serum or a retinol serum should be introduced gradually. Retinal and retinol are vitamin A derivatives and can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight.
• Blemishes: a serum for sensitive or acne-prone skin should not only contain active ingredients, but also feel comfortable on your skin and avoid making your routine unnecessarily complicated.

Always check the full ingredients list. Ingredients listed near the beginning are generally present in higher amounts than those near the end. However, you can’t always work out the exact concentration from the INCI list.

2. Consider the size, how you’ll use it and its shelf life

A 30 ml bottle is a common size for a face serum. A larger bottle, such as 100 or 150 ml, may offer better value if you use the product every day. A concentrated 15 ml retinal serum, on the other hand, may be designed for use in small amounts and less frequently.

Follow the instructions on the packaging. A serum is usually applied after cleansing and, if you use one, toner, followed by a moisturiser. Wear sunscreen during the day if the formula contains vitamin A, acids or certain brightening ingredients. With active formulas, start with a small amount and use them less frequently at first.

3. Consider your skin type as well as the formula

A light gel can feel comfortable on oily or combination skin. A serum containing oils or a richer lotion may be a better fit for dry skin. Fragrance-free options are often worth considering for sensitive skin, although “hypoallergenic” doesn’t mean a reaction is impossible.

Test a new formula on a small area of skin first. Stop using it if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and ask a doctor or dermatologist for advice if needed.

Recommended face serums for different users

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its light lotion texture and 30 ml size make it a straightforward starting point if you’re mainly looking for extra hydration.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information describes a clear, fast-absorbing formula with hyaluronic acid. Always check the latest ingredients list for fragrance and limonene.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, hyaluronic acid, glycerine and a light lotion formula; described as suitable for all skin types.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15 ml

Why it suits this profile: This is aimed at users who want to use a retinal serum deliberately and can gradually build up how often they apply it.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions recommend starting every other evening, using a small amount and applying sunscreen during the day. This helps you avoid increasing use too quickly.

Key benefit & highlights

15 ml, 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000 according to the product information; designed for night-time use.

Suitable for: Sensitive skin and a more even complexion

ANUA Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: A fragrance-free formula with niacinamide and tranexamic acid is a good match if you want to target dark spots and uneven skin tone.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists the concentrations of niacinamide and TXA and comes in a pump bottle. The product description says it’s fragrance-free; check the packaging when it arrives.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, 10% niacinamide, 4% tranexamic acid, hyaluronic acid and product information stating it’s fragrance-free.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face, apply toner if you use one, then use a few drops or pumps of serum. Spread the product evenly over your skin and finish with a moisturiser. Wear sunscreen during the day if the product information recommends it. Don’t combine several potent active ingredients straight away.

How long does a bottle of serum last?

That depends on the size and how much you use. A 30 ml bottle used daily, with a few drops at a time, will often last for several weeks to a few months. Store the product as directed, close the packaging properly and check the expiry date or period after opening.

Which serum is right for sensitive skin?

Look for a short, straightforward ingredients list and consider a fragrance-free formula. A serum with hyaluronic acid, glycerine or panthenol is often a sensible place to start for hydration. Introduce retinal, retinol, acids and high concentrations of niacinamide gradually. Stop using the product if irritation occurs, and consult a doctor if symptoms persist.