Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted step between toner and moisturiser. However, an expensive bottle is not automatically suitable for your skin. The texture, active ingredients and directions for use all determine whether a serum fits comfortably into your routine.

For consumers in the Netherlands, there are several common pitfalls:

• Marketing claims without clear context: terms such as “glow”, “lifting” or “pore minimising” mean little without information about the ingredients and concentrations.
• Too many active ingredients at once: a serum containing vitamin C, acids, retinoids and niacinamide may seem appealing, but a complex routine also increases the risk of irritation.
• Not considering usage and shelf life: light-sensitive ingredients such as vitamin C and retinal require careful storage. Always check the packaging, expiry date and official ingredients list.

Which features should you check before buying?

1. Choose the main goal of your routine

First, decide what you expect from a serum. A hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid, glycerine, panthenol or beta-glucan may suit skin that feels tight or dry, for example. A niacinamide serum may be worth considering if your main concerns are an uneven complexion, shine or visible pores.

For pigmentation and a dull-looking complexion, you will often see a brightening serum containing ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C or niacinamide. Product descriptions may refer to reducing dark spots. Treat this as information from the brand; results vary depending on your skin and how long you use the product.

A serum with azelaic acid is aimed at an uneven complexion and skin prone to blemishes. Start slowly with formulas containing active ingredients and follow the directions on the packaging. For mature skin, you may wish to look for peptides, bakuchiol or retinal. An anti-ageing serum will not permanently eliminate wrinkles, but according to the product description, it may help skin look smoother.

2. Look beyond the product name

Check the full INCI list. Pay attention to:

• Concentration or amount, when stated by the brand, such as 10% azelaic acid, 2% alpha-arbutin or 4% niacinamide.
• Texture: a gel serum often feels lighter than an oily formula. This may be relevant if you have oily or combination skin.
• Fragrance and alcohol: if you are looking for a serum for sensitive skin, you may wish to consider a fragrance-free formula. However, a fragrance-free product is no guarantee that everyone will tolerate it well.
• Packaging: a tightly sealed bottle and storage away from direct sunlight can help you use the formula as instructed.

A Korean face serum often contains several supportive ingredients, such as centella, ceramides, panthenol and hyaluronic acid. This fits within Korean skincare, but always look at the actual formulation rather than relying solely on the country of origin.

3. Build your routine gradually

Apply a serum to cleansed skin, usually after toner and before moisturiser. During the day, use a sunscreen product when recommended in the product instructions, particularly with formulas containing vitamin C, retinal or exfoliating ingredients.

Introduce one new face serum at a time. If your skin is sensitive or prone to acne, first test a small amount on a limited area of skin. Stop using it if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and consult a doctor or pharmacist if you have any concerns. Do not use a serum on damaged skin if the packaging advises against it.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this serum contains 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and centella. That makes it relevant if you are specifically looking for a serum for acne-prone skin or visible redness.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The directions recommend starting with 1–2 drops once or twice a week, then gradually increasing use.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; contains panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and ceramide NP according to the listed ingredients.

Suitable for: Korean skincare enthusiasts

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula contains 68.6% rice bran water, 2% alpha-arbutin and niacinamide. It may suit anyone looking for a lightweight serum for a dull or uneven complexion.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information gives specific amounts of rice bran water and alpha-arbutin, making it easier to compare the formula.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml content; fragrance-free and alcohol-free according to the stated product details.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use a face serum?

Cleanse your face and apply toner if required. Then use a few drops of serum and gently pat it evenly into your skin. Finish with a moisturiser. When using active ingredients, always follow the brand’s specific instructions.

How long does a face serum last?

This depends on the amount, dosage and frequency of use. A 30 ml bottle will generally last less time with daily use than a 50 or 100 ml bottle. Check the shelf-life information on the packaging and store the product as instructed.

Can you combine several serums?

Sometimes, but it is better to start with one formula. Do not immediately combine several potent actives, such as retinal, vitamin C and azelaic acid. Add products one at a time and monitor how your skin reacts. During the day, use sun protection when recommended in the directions for use.