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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful step between cleansing and moisturising. However, an expensive bottle is not automatically suitable for your skin. A serum for pigmentation, for example, requires a different approach from a hydrating serum for dry skin. A Korean face serum with lots of active ingredients can also be too intense if your skin reacts easily.

As a Joybuy Product Recommendation Officer, I filter product information based on practical considerations. Below, you’ll learn which pitfalls to avoid, which specifications to check and which formulas suit different skin needs.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage doesn’t tell you everything

A product containing 10%, 15% or an even higher stated percentage may sound convincing. However, how well it works also depends on the type of ingredient, the stability of the formula and the rest of the ingredients list. Niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, tranexamic acid and arbutin each serve a different purpose in a skincare routine.

Also pay attention to marketing language. A brand claim about collagen, skin repair or reducing pigmentation is not a guaranteed result for every user. Attribute it to the source: according to the brand’s product description, the serum is intended to make the skin look firmer, more even or more radiant.

2. Too many active ingredients at once

When looking for a serum for an even complexion, some people combine vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, acids and exfoliating spicules in the same routine. This can increase the likelihood of redness, stinging or a tight feeling.

It’s better to start with one goal:

  • Hydration: hyaluronic acid, glycerine, panthenol or polyglutamic acid.
  • A dull complexion: niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives or arbutin.
  • Fine lines and mature skin: peptides, adenosine or retinol.
  • Sensitive skin: a simple, fragrance-free formula with few potential irritants.

3. Not considering use and shelf life

A serum is not a replacement for a day cream or sunscreen. Particularly with vitamin C, retinol, acids and some pigmentation-focused formulas, daily sun protection is an important part of your routine. Also check the expiry information and the period after opening on the packaging. Store the bottle as directed, usually somewhere cool and away from direct sunlight.

Which specifications should you check?

Ingredients matched to your skin goal

Don’t just look at the front of the packaging; check the full ingredients list too.

  • A vitamin C serum may contain pure ascorbic acid or a more stable derivative. Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum lists, among other ingredients, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid and hyaluronic acid.
  • A niacinamide serum is worth considering for an uneven complexion or skin that quickly feels oily. The 6 Peptide Skin Booster contains niacinamide, six types of peptides, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate.
  • A serum for pigmentation may contain ingredients such as alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C derivatives. The α-Arbutin 2 Pigment Care Serum lists 2% alpha-arbutin.
  • A hydrating serum often contains humectants, such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, which help retain water on the skin’s surface.
  • For an anti-ageing serum or serum for fine lines, look for peptides, adenosine and retinol. Don’t expect guaranteed results; focus on the stated function and how the product feels on your skin.

Texture and layering

A watery essence usually absorbs quickly and works well under a moisturiser. A gel texture can feel pleasant on combination or blemish-prone skin. A richer formula is often more comfortable on dry skin, but may feel heavier under make-up.

Also check whether the product contains fragrance, alcohol or essential oils if your skin is sensitive to them. The product information for some formulas explicitly states that they are fragrance-free or alcohol-free, but always check the label when your order arrives.

Size, dosage and building tolerance

Sizes vary considerably, from 9 ml to 150 ml. A small bottle can be useful for trying an active formula first. For products containing spicules, such as some SKIN1004 ampoules, the product information recommends carrying out a patch test first and starting with two to three applications per week.

Usually, apply a few drops to cleansed skin, followed by a moisturiser. If you use the serum during the day, finish with sunscreen. Stop using it if irritation persists and avoid applying it to damaged skin.

Recommended face serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis Niacinamide 30ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, the 30ml formula combines propolis, 2% niacinamide and a gel-like texture. This makes it an accessible choice for anyone wanting to add radiance and hydration without combining several serums.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients and purpose are clearly stated. You don’t need to buy several highly active products straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; 2% niacinamide; product information states that it has a lightweight texture and is designed to give the skin a radiant appearance.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30ml

Why it suits this profile: If you’re looking for a comprehensive anti-ageing serum, this formula contains hyaluronic acid. According to the product description, the serum is designed to hydrate, give the skin a firmer appearance and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information states the intended use, size, texture and frequency of use. This means you can compare the formula based on more than just its anti-ageing claim.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; according to the product information, fragrance-free and oil-free; contains hyaluronic acid and is intended for all skin types.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
SKIN1004 Matrixyl 10% Boosting Shot Ampoule

SKIN1004 Matrixyl 10% Boosting Shot Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this Korean ampoule combines 10% Matrixyl, 5% Volufiline, hyaluronic acid and micro-spicule technology. It’s suited to users who want to target hydration and a smoother skin texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The usage instructions recommend a patch test and gradually building up to two or three applications per week. This prevents you from applying it too frequently straight away.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; Matrixyl and hyaluronic acid; clear guidance on patch testing and building tolerance.

Looking for more options?

We’ve put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

How do you use a face serum?

First cleanse your face and apply toner if desired. Then apply a few drops of serum to your face and neck. Gently pat the product into your skin and finish with a moisturiser. During the day, apply sunscreen as the final step in your skincare routine.

How long does a face serum last?

Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging. It’s best to store vitamin C, retinol and other active formulas according to the brand’s instructions, often away from direct sunlight. If the scent, colour or texture changes noticeably, stop using the product.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Choose a formula with a short, easy-to-understand ingredients list and avoid using several active ingredients at once at first. A fragrance-free, hydrating serum can be a practical starting point. Test new products on a small area of skin first and stop using them if irritation occurs.