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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a targeted addition to your daily skincare routine. However, it is not wise to rely solely on words such as “glow”, “intensive” or “instant results”. The right choice depends mainly on your skin type, the ingredients list and how often you want to use the product.

If you are looking for a Korean face serum, you will often see lots of similar packaging and promises. Below, you can read which pitfalls to avoid, which specifications matter and which products suit different uses.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage does not automatically mean a better match

A serum containing 10% azelaic acid, niacinamide or another active ingredient may be appealing for a specific routine. However, a higher percentage may also be less suitable for someone with sensitive skin or a damaged skin barrier. With active formulas, start by using the product infrequently and follow the instructions on the packaging.

2. “For all skin types” says little without an ingredients list

A product may be described as suitable for all skin types, yet still contain fragrance, alcohol or several active ingredients. Always check the full ingredients list. When choosing a serum for sensitive skin, for example, look out for fragrance, essential oils and ingredients that have caused you to react in the past.

3. Using several serums at the same time can become confusing

Combining a hydrating serum with a niacinamide serum is usually straightforward, but using several exfoliating or retinoid products at once makes it harder to identify the cause of irritation. It is better to introduce one new product at a time. This makes it easier to see how your skin responds to the formula.

Which specifications should you check?

Active ingredients and your skincare goal

First, choose the main goal of your routine:

  • Dryness or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, beta-glucan and ceramides. A hydrating serum such as Torriden DIVE IN or iUNIK Beta-Glucan Power Moisture Serum suits this profile.
  • Redness and blemishes: azelaic acid, centella asiatica, panthenol and zinc PCA are often found in formulas for skin that looks unsettled. A serum for acne-prone skin is cosmetic skincare, not a medical treatment.
  • Dark spots and an uneven complexion: look for ingredients such as niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid and vitamin C derivatives. According to the product information, a dark-spot serum may help reduce the appearance of discolouration, but results vary from person to person.
  • Fine lines and texture: retinal, bakuchiol and peptides are commonly used ingredients in an anti-ageing serum. Retinal requires extra care and daily use of sun protection.
  • Sensitive skin: a short ingredients list and a gradual introduction are often more practical than a formula containing lots of strong active ingredients.

Concentration and frequency of use

Check whether the brand states a percentage. The SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid Ampoule, for example, lists 10% azelaic acid. According to the usage instructions, it is best to start by using it every other day. ANUA recommends starting its azelaic acid serum with one or two drops, once or twice a week, and gradually increasing use.

Gradual introduction is even more important with retinal. According to the product description, the celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT contains 0.1% pure retinal. The brand recommends using it every other evening during the first two weeks. Do not use retinal on irritated or damaged skin, and apply sun cream the following morning.

Texture, size and packaging

A watery gel generally absorbs quickly and works well under a day cream or sun cream. A richer serum containing oils or ceramides may feel more comfortable on dry skin. Also consider the size:

  • 15 to 30 ml is common for an active serum.
  • 50 to 150 ml may offer better value when you use a mild hydrating product generously.
  • A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers.
  • With a pipette, it is important not to let the dropper touch your skin.

When choosing vitamin C serums, also check the storage advice. Close the packaging securely and keep the product out of direct sunlight.

Recommended face serums for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The lightweight formula is designed for daily hydration and, according to the product information, contains hyaluronic acid and glycerine. This makes it a straightforward starting point for anyone who does not yet have an active skincare routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The focus is on hydration rather than several strong actives at once. However, check for fragrance and limonene if your skin is sensitive to them.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; hyaluronic acid; lightweight lotion texture; use during the day or in the evening.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality
Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why it suits this profile: If you are primarily looking for a comfortable hydrating serum, this formula contains five types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan, according to the product description.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information clearly highlights the hydrating ingredients and a fragrance-free formula. This helps you compare products without relying solely on glow claims.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml; five types of hyaluronic acid; fragrance-free according to the product information; suitable for morning and evening use.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10% Ampoule

Why it suits this profile: According to the product information, this Korean formula is aimed at oily, blemish-prone skin and a visibly uneven complexion. Centella asiatica has been added to provide a soothing skin feel.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula is niacinamide-free, which is useful if you deliberately want to avoid this ingredient. Introduce it gradually and stop using it if irritation persists.

Key benefit & highlights

10% azelaic acid; 30 ml; niacinamide-free formula; gradually increase use according to the instructions.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15ml

Why it suits this profile: This serum is designed for anyone wanting to add retinal and peptides to their evening routine in a targeted way. According to the product information, it contains 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The recommended frequency and amount are clearly explained. Use it only in the evening, avoid the eye area and apply sun cream the following morning.

Key benefit & highlights

15 ml; 0.1% retinal according to the product description; contains Matrixyl 3000; instructions for gradual introduction.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

How to use a face serum in your routine

  1. Cleanse your face and use toner if desired.
  2. Apply one to a few drops of serum, depending on the product advice.
  3. Follow with a moisturiser to help lock in moisture.
  4. Always apply sun cream in the morning, especially when using retinal, vitamin C or active formulas.
  5. If your skin reacts easily, test a new serum on a small area of skin first.

Do not use several new active serums on the same day. If you experience redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, stop using the product. Consult a doctor or pharmacist if skin complaints persist.

Frequently asked questions about face serums

How often should you use a face serum?

This depends on the formula. According to the product instructions, a hydrating serum can often be used in the morning and evening. It is better to introduce an azelaic acid serum or retinal serum gradually. Always check the brand’s label and warnings.

Can I use a face serum under my day cream?

Yes. The usual order is cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser and sun cream during the day. Allow each layer to absorb briefly if the products start to pill.

How long does a serum last?

Follow the expiry date and the period-after-opening guidance on the packaging. Store the product somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight. Vitamin C, retinal and other active ingredients may particularly benefit from secure packaging and careful storage.