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Choosing a face serum: how to find a formula that suits your skin

A face serum can be a useful extra step between cleansing and moisturising. However, it’s unwise to rely solely on terms like “glow”, “intensive” or “anti-ageing”. The right choice depends mainly on your skin’s needs, the ingredient list and how you plan to use the serum.

If you search online for a Korean face serum, a hydrating serum or a serum for pigmentation, you’ll quickly see dozens of similar products. Below are the key pitfalls and checkpoints, followed by product choices for different user profiles.

Three common pitfalls when choosing a face serum

1. A high percentage isn’t automatically the right choice

A product with 10% niacinamide or 23% vitamin C can look appealing, but a higher concentration doesn’t suit every skin. Especially with sensitive skin or if you’re just starting out, a strong formula can feel uncomfortable more quickly.

So pay attention to the full formulation. A niacinamide serum may also include hydrating ingredients, while a vitamin C serum can use different forms of vitamin C. The ingredient name doesn’t tell the whole story.

2. “Sensitive” doesn’t always mean fragrance-free

Check the ingredient list rather than only the front of the pack. The MEDICUBE PDRN Pink Peptide Serum, for example, lists fragrance in the ingredients, so it isn’t fragrance-free despite product information about a milder formula. With a serum for sensitive skin, a patch test is a wise idea.

Even natural extracts may not suit some users. Stop use if you experience redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and follow the safety information on the packaging.

3. Too many actives at once

Combining an anti-redness serum, an exfoliant and a retinoid in the same routine can be unnecessarily complicated. Start with one new product and initially use a small amount. With active formulas such as azelaic acid or retinal, a gradual build-up matters.

Use sun protection during the day when the product label recommends it. A face serum does not replace sunscreen.

What should you look for when buying?

1. Choose your key ingredient based on your skin goal

  • Dry or tight-feeling skin: look for glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan, ceramides and a hyaluronic acid serum.
  • Dull skin or a serum for an even tone: niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, tranexamic acid or vitamin C appear in many formulas.
  • Redness or a delicate-feeling skin: panthenol, allantoin, centella asiatica and beta-glucan are practical ingredients to compare.
  • Acne-prone skin: opt for a light texture and ingredients such as niacinamide, zinc PCA or azelaic acid. A cosmetic serum is not a substitute for medical advice.
  • Mature skin: peptides, adenosine, bakuchiol or retinal are often used in an anti-ageing serum. According to the brands’ product information, these formulas aim for a smoother look or more resilience; such product claims are no guarantee of an individual result.

2. Check texture, fragrance and vegan credentials

A watery formula often layers well under a day cream or sunscreen. A gel or lotion texture can be more comfortable for combination or oily skin. A richer formula may better suit dry skin, but it won’t feel comfortable for everyone.

If you want to avoid fragrance, you could consider Torriden DIVE IN, Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum or Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum. Always check the latest packaging, as ingredients can change.

3. Consider volume, shelf life and usage

Most serums in this selection contain 20 to 50 ml. According to many product instructions, a few drops per use are often enough, but the exact dosage differs per formula.

Pay extra attention to vitamin C and retinal. Vitamin C23 contains 23% ascorbic acid according to the product information and should be stored in the fridge after opening and preferably used within two months. Celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot is intended for evening use according to the product information and requires a gradual build-up. Such storage and usage conditions are more important than a flashy marketing promise.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Embryolisse Hydra Serum 30 ml

Why this suits the profile: A straightforward choice for anyone adding a hydrating serum for the first time and looking for a light, fast-absorbing texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredient list is shorter than many multi-active serums. Note: the formula contains fragrance and limonene.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; hyaluronic acid, glycerine and white water lily; according to the product information, suitable for all skin types.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking top quality
Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Torriden DIVE IN Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Serum 50ml

Why this suits the profile: Ideal for users seeking a fragrance-free, vegan formula with multiple hydrating components.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information explicitly states a fragrance-free formula, making this checkpoint clearer upfront.

Key benefit & highlights

50 ml; according to the product information, five types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml

Why this suits the profile: Designed for users specifically seeking an anti-redness serum or a formula with 10% azelaic acid.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions advise a gradual build-up, as dryness or flaking can occur. Sunscreen is recommended during the day.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; according to the ingredient list, contains panthenol, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide and ceramide NP.

Suitable for: Beginners with sensitive skin
Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum 30ml

Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum 30ml

Why this suits the profile: A vegan and fragrance-free option for those who want to try vitamin C with a light, watery texture.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description explicitly states no fragrances or colourants. If irritation occurs, always check the label and discontinue use.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml; according to the product description, contains vitamin C, niacinamide, allantoin and sea buckthorn extract.

Looking for more options?

We’ve compiled a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and comply with current European safety regulations.

How to use a face serum

  1. Cleanse your face and optionally use a toner.
  2. Apply one to a few drops, depending on the product instructions.
  3. Press the serum gently into the skin rather than rubbing hard.
  4. Follow with a moisturiser.
  5. Add new products one by one so you can recognise a reaction more easily.

Frequently asked questions about face serum

When should you apply face serum?

You usually apply a serum after cleansing and before your moisturiser. Some active formulas are intended for the evening. Always follow the label, especially with vitamin C, azelaic acid and retinal.

How long can you use a face serum for?

That varies by product. Check the expiry date and the period after opening on the packaging. Store a vitamin C serum such as Vitamin C23 according to the stated storage instructions, as the formula can be sensitive to light, heat and air.

Is a more expensive serum better value to use?

Not necessarily. Compare volume, dosage, shelf life and ingredients. A 30 ml bottle that only requires a few drops per use can last longer than a larger product that needs a lot each time. The right formula also helps prevent a product from being left unused.