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Buying a face serum: how to choose a formula that suits your skin

Buying a face serum may seem straightforward, but there is a huge range to choose from. Are you looking for a K-beauty serum, a hydrating serum, or perhaps a serum with vitamin C, retinol or niacinamide? Packaging often promises glowing skin, fewer fine lines or a more even complexion. However, an eye-catching claim means little if the ingredients, concentration and directions for use are not right for your skin.

Common mistakes when buying a face serum

1. Choosing an active ingredient without considering the formula

A vitamin C serum or retinol serum can be a useful addition to a targeted routine, but the overall formula also affects how comfortable the product feels on your skin. For example, a high concentration of vitamin C may be less suitable for someone who experiences redness easily. According to the product information, Vitamin C23 Anti aging serum contains 23% ascorbic acid. The manufacturer recommends a patch test, refrigeration and using the product within two months of opening.

With retinol, it is important to build up gradually. The SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule contains both retinol and retinal and has a spicule texture. According to the directions for use, start with two to three evenings per week. Do not use retinol products during pregnancy or while breastfeeding unless advised by a healthcare professional.

2. Mistaking marketing claims for guaranteed results

Terms such as “glow”, “lifting” and “anti-ageing” often describe a product’s intended purpose, but they do not guarantee the same results for every user. A brand’s own research may show that a certain percentage of users report a visible effect; this does not mean everyone will achieve the same result.

So, focus particularly on verifiable specifications:

  • the full ingredients list using INCI names;
  • the volume, for example 20, 30, 50 or 100 ml;
  • the recommended frequency of use;
  • warnings about sun sensitivity or irritation;
  • the product’s shelf life after opening;
  • whether it contains fragrance, alcohol or essential oils if you wish to avoid them.

3. Combining too many serums at once

A serum for dark spots, a niacinamide serum, an exfoliant and a retinol product in the same routine can make things unnecessarily complicated. It is better to start with one goal, such as hydration or a more even complexion. Only add a second active product once your skin tolerates the first formula well.

Important points to check

Choose the active ingredient based on your goal

For dry or tight-feeling skin, humectants such as glycerine, panthenol and hyaluronic acid are often a good fit. A centella ampoule typically contains centella asiatica and is often chosen for a simple, lightweight routine. According to the product information, the SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule is based on centella asiatica extract and has a watery texture.

If you want to address a dull complexion or visible discolouration, consider alpha-arbutin, vitamin C or niacinamide. According to the ingredients list, Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum contains 2% alpha-arbutin, niacinamide and rice bran water. It is therefore an option for anyone looking for a serum for dark spots with a hydrating texture, without immediately opting for retinol.

Retinol, retinal, peptides and adenosine are often mentioned in connection with signs of skin ageing. Do not present their effects as guaranteed results: according to the product description, these ingredients are intended to support the appearance of skin texture, elasticity or visible fine lines.

Check your skin type and sensitivities

A serum for sensitive skin is not automatically suitable for everyone. Check the full ingredients list and see whether the formula contains, for example, fragrance, alcohol or exfoliating acids. Carry out a patch test on a small area of skin before using a new product.

A lightweight texture is useful under sun cream or make-up. A richer formula containing ingredients such as shea butter, silicones or oils may feel more comfortable on dry skin, but less comfortable on oily skin. “Oil-free”, “vegan” and “dermatologically tested” are product characteristics, not guarantees that your skin will not react.

Pay attention to packaging, shelf life and usage

Vitamin C and retinol require extra care when it comes to storage. recommends storing the Vitamin C23 serum in the fridge and using it within two months of opening. For other products, the period after opening is stated on the packaging, for example 6M or 12M.

Always check the following when your order arrives:

  1. whether the packaging is intact;
  2. whether the ingredients match those listed on the current product packaging;
  3. whether the shelf-life information is legible;
  4. whether the dosage and warnings are clear;
  5. whether the product is suitable for your routine.

During the day, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 whenever this is advised in the product information, particularly when using retinol, retinal, vitamin C or exfoliating ingredients.

Our recommendations for different user profiles

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners
Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Madagascar Centella Ampoule 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: Its concise ingredient focus and watery texture make this ampoule a straightforward choice for anyone starting out with a simple facial skincare routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

You are not buying a complex blend with lots of active ingredients, making it easier to combine with a basic routine.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, centella asiatica as the key ingredient and a lightweight, non-sticky texture according to the product information.

Suitable for: Shoppers seeking premium quality
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30ml

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A well-known night-time formula for anyone who values hydration and a comprehensive routine more than a short ingredients list.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information lists the skin type, time of use, volume and ingredients, so you do not have to base your choice solely on the “anti-ageing” claim.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, an oil-free formula, and hyaluronic acid and bifida ferment lysate in the ingredients list.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9ml

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9ml

Why it suits this profile: For users who want to incorporate retinol and retinal deliberately and are prepared to build up their frequency gradually.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The instructions provide a gradual build-up schedule and warn about sun sensitivity, irritation and use on damaged skin.

Key benefit & highlights

Retinol and retinal in one formula, complemented by glycerine, squalane, panthenol and centella asiatica extract.

Suitable for: Uneven skin tone
Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rich + Alpha Arbutin 30ml

Why it suits this profile: A Korean face serum for anyone who wants to combine radiance, hydration and a more even-looking complexion in their routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula states a specific concentration of 2% alpha-arbutin, rather than making only a general claim about glowing skin.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml, 2% alpha-arbutin, niacinamide and rice bran water; according to the product information, free from alcohol and fragrance.

Looking for more options?

We have put together a complete, up-to-date list of products that fully meet these strict selection criteria and the applicable European safety regulations.

Frequently asked questions about buying face serum

How do you use a face serum?

First cleanse your face and then apply toner if desired. Next, use a few drops of serum and finish with a moisturiser. During the day, sunscreen should be the final step in your facial skincare routine. When using retinol, vitamin C or acids, always follow the specific instructions on the label.

How long does a serum last after opening?

This varies from product to product. Check the symbol on the packaging, such as 6M or 12M, as well as any additional instructions. A vitamin C serum may be particularly sensitive to light, heat and air. recommends using the Vitamin C23 serum within two months of opening.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive skin?

Choose a short, straightforward formula and avoid using several active ingredients at the same time to begin with. A centella ampoule or hydrating serum can be an accessible starting point. Always carry out a patch test and stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation. If symptoms are severe or persistent, it is advisable to seek medical advice.