Choosing an anti-ageing serum for the face: ingredients, skin type and usage explained

An anti-ageing serum for the face can be a practical addition to your skincare routine if you experience dryness, fine lines, a dull complexion or less firm-looking skin. However, it can be difficult to compare marketing claims properly. Terms such as “collagen”, “lifting” and “deep absorption” say little on their own about how well a formula suits your skin.

The most common pitfalls:

• Confusing a high-profile ingredient claim with proven results. A serum containing collagen, peptides or PDRN may sound appealing, but always check the full INCI list and the concentration where this is stated.
• Introducing retinol or retinal too quickly. A serum containing retinol is not automatically suitable for daily use. Applying it too often can irritate the skin, particularly if you also use exfoliating acids.
• Focusing only on anti-ageing and forgetting hydration. Dry skin often makes fine lines look more visible. A hydrating serum with glycerine or hyaluronic acid can therefore provide a sensible base, even if you later add a retinoid.

Which properties should you check?

1. Choose the main purpose of your serum

First decide what you mainly want to target:

• For dryness and a tight feeling: choose a hydrating serum with glycerine, panthenol, beta-glucan or hyaluronic acid.
• For less firm-looking skin: look for a firming serum with peptides, niacinamide or collagen derivatives.
• For fine lines and uneven skin texture: a serum with retinol or retinal may be suitable, provided you introduce it gradually.
• For a mature or tired-looking complexion: a serum for mature skin containing several hydrating and supportive ingredients may be more practical than one highly potent active ingredient.
• For a dull complexion or visible discolouration: niacinamide and other brightening ingredients may be relevant, but daily sun protection remains important.

Pay attention to the wording. A “collagen serum” often contains collagen extract or hydrolysed collagen. According to the product information provided by the brands concerned, these ingredients are intended to leave the skin looking plumper, more hydrated or firmer. This does not guarantee that the serum replenishes the skin’s own collagen or medically treats wrinkles.

2. Check tolerability and directions for use

With active formulas, the safety instructions are at least as important as the ingredients:

• Carry out a patch test before using a new product.
• Start with a small amount and use it infrequently.
• Preferably use retinol or retinal in the evening and apply sun cream during the day.
• Do not automatically combine a retinoid with AHA, BHA, vitamin C or other exfoliants.
• Do not use a serum on damaged or irritated skin.
• Stop using it if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and seek medical advice if necessary.

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, it is sensible to discuss using retinol or retinal with a doctor or midwife. Always check the packaging as well: ingredients and usage advice may change.

3. Consider the volume, texture and packaging

A 30 ml serum is a common size, while a 50 or 55 ml bottle will last longer with daily use. The texture determines whether the product fits comfortably into your routine. A gel serum is often easy to use under make-up, while a richer essence may be better suited to dry skin.

Also check:

• the use-by date and batch information;
• the full ingredients list on the packaging;
• whether it contains fragrance, if you are sensitive to it;
• a pump bottle or securely sealable packaging;
• warnings relating to light, heat and the use of beauty devices.

A serum containing spicules or microneedles may cause a tingling sensation. According to VT’s product information, this is an expected sensation with the Reedle Shot formula, but severe or persistent irritation is a reason to stop using it.

Our recommendations by skin profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng+Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and simple pump bottle make it a good fit for a daily routine for dry, normal or combination skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list includes 3% snail secretion filtrate, ginseng water, glycerine and several forms of hyaluronic acid. This allows you to compare the formula more meaningfully, rather than focusing only on the word “firming”.

Main benefit & key features

30 ml, gel texture, suitable according to the product details for dry, normal and combination skin.

Suitable for: Buyers looking for premium quality

medicube Triple Collagen Serum 55ml

Why it suits this profile: The larger size and lightweight texture are practical for anyone who wants to use a collagen serum every day without a heavy feel on the skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula lists three forms of collagen and hyaluronic acid. According to medicube’s product information, the serum is intended to hydrate, leave the skin looking firmer and improve a dull complexion; this remains a cosmetic product claim.

Main benefit & key features

55 ml, lightweight texture, with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This is aimed at users who consciously want to build a retinol and retinal routine and are prepared to allow time for their skin to adjust.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The directions advise applying a small amount in the evening during the first one to two weeks, then gradually increasing use. According to the ingredients list, the formula contains 0.1% retinol, retinal and bakuchiol.

Main benefit & key features

30 ml, with panthenol, beta-glucan, ceramide NP and niacinamide alongside retinoids.

How to use an anti-ageing serum in your routine

1. Cleanse your face and apply toner if desired.
2. Use one to two pumps or a few drops, depending on the packaging.
3. Apply the serum to your face and neck, but avoid the eye area if the label advises this.
4. Finish with a moisturiser.
5. Use a sun protection product during the day, especially when using retinol, retinal or other active ingredients.

Do not combine several serums straight away. A hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid is generally easier to incorporate than using several strong actives at once. With a Korean skincare serum, the usual order is: cleanse, toner, essence or serum, followed by cream.

Frequently asked questions

How long does a serum for fine lines last?

This depends on the volume and the amount used each time. With daily use, a 30 ml bottle will generally run out sooner than a 50 or 55 ml version. Follow the recommended dosage; using more product does not automatically speed up the cosmetic effect and may actually feel uncomfortable with active formulas.

Can I use retinol and hyaluronic acid together?

This is often possible within the same routine, as hyaluronic acid is mainly used as a hydrating ingredient. Apply the retinol serum according to the directions and then follow with a moisturiser. Introduce retinol gradually, test it on a small area of skin first and follow the warnings on the packaging.

Is a serum with peptides suitable for sensitive skin?

A serum with peptides may be an option if you are looking for a less intensive routine, but suitability depends on the complete formula. Fragrance, alcohol, retinoids or other active ingredients may be more important than the peptide itself. Therefore, check the INCI list and stop using the product if irritation occurs.