Choosing an anti-ageing serum: how to compare ingredients, skin type and use

An anti-ageing serum can be a useful addition to your daily skincare routine, but there is a lot of choice. Products often promise a firmer-looking appearance, less visible fine lines or long-lasting hydration. However, a striking claim means little if you do not look at the ingredients, concentration, volume and instructions for use.

In the Netherlands in particular, three familiar pitfalls regularly cause problems:

• An impressive claim without a clear concentration. Words such as “peptide”, “collagen” or “lifting” do not automatically tell you how much of an ingredient is present.
• Choosing the wrong active ingredient. Retinol and retinal can be interesting in an anti-wrinkle serum, but they require a gradual introduction and sun protection.
• Looking only at the price per bottle. A 15 ml facial serum may appear more expensive than a 30 or 50 ml bottle, even though frequency of use and dosage also matter.

Which specifications should you check before buying?

1. Look at the purpose and the ingredients

First, decide what you want to support in your daily routine: hydration, smoother skin texture, a firmer-looking appearance or care for mature skin. A hydrating serum, for example, often contains glycerine, hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate. These ingredients help the skin’s surface retain moisture. This does not mean that they medically treat or permanently remove wrinkles.

A firming serum often contains peptides, niacinamide, adenosine or plant extracts. Always check the full ingredients list. If an ingredient features prominently in the product name but appears much lower down the list, its concentration is not necessarily clear.

A peptide serum may suit anyone looking for a lightweight formula for daily use. With a hyaluronic acid serum, the texture is particularly relevant: some formulas feel watery, while others leave a fuller or smoother layer on the skin.

2. Consider concentration and tolerance

With retinol products, it is important that the percentage is stated. The Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum, for example, states 0.1% retinol and also contains retinal and bakuchiol. The SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule lists retinol and retinal, but has a smaller volume of 9 ml.

Use a retinol serum or retinal product preferably in the evening. Start with a small amount and use it infrequently. For these formulas, the product information recommends, among other things, a patch test, gradual introduction and daily use of sun protection. Do not use retinol on irritated or damaged skin. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, it is advisable to follow the product warning and consult a doctor if in doubt.

3. Compare volume, packaging and shelf life

A pump bottle limits contact with air and fingers. A pipette can be convenient for a concentrated formula, but requires careful closing and storage. Also check:

• Volume: common sizes are 20, 30, 50 or 100 ml.
• Dosage: one or two pumps or a few drops per use.
• Storage: according to the product information, some vitamin C serums should be stored in a cool place and protected from light.
• Shelf life: check the expiry date and the period after opening stated on the packaging.

A Korean skincare serum formula is not automatically suitable for every skin type. Even with popular Korean products, a patch test is still advisable, especially if you have sensitive or dehydrated skin.

Recommended anti-ageing serums by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: The gel texture and pump bottle make it easy to use. According to the product information, it is suitable for dry, normal and combination skin.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product description lists specific ingredients, including 3% snail mucin filtrate, ginseng root water, glycerine and hyaluronic acid. This makes it easier to assess its focus on hydration and a firmer-looking appearance.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml volume; gel formula; pump packaging; according to the product details, alcohol-free and vegan.

Suitable for: Shoppers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the product details, this serum is suitable for all skin types and can be used in the morning and evening before moisturiser.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients list includes bifida ferment lysate, sodium hyaluronate, glycerine, squalane and a peptide, among others. However, always check the current packaging, as formulations may change.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml volume; listed as an oil-free product; suitable for all skin types according to the available product specifications.

Suitable for: Targeted use & intensive users

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This is suitable for users who deliberately want to incorporate a retinol, retinal and bakuchiol formula into an evening routine with gradual introduction.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula states 0.1% retinol and provides clear warnings about patch testing, sun protection and gradual introduction. Do not combine it casually with other strong acids or retinol products.

Key benefit & highlights

30 ml volume; retinol, retinal and bakuchiol in one formula; according to the product details, also contains panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan.

How to use an anti-ageing serum in your routine

Apply a serum to cleansed skin, usually after toner and before moisturiser. Always follow the product packaging, as the recommended amount varies from one formula to another.

• During the day, use a sunscreen offering suitable protection, particularly when using retinol, retinal or a concentrated vitamin C serum.
• Test a new product on a small area of skin first.
• Do not introduce several strong active ingredients at the same time.
• Stop using the product if you experience persistent redness, itching, swelling or a burning sensation, and seek medical advice if necessary.
• Store the serum according to the instructions, for example in a cool place away from direct sunlight.

A vitamin C serum such as Vitamin C23 states 23% ascorbic acid and gives specific storage advice. The product information advises against combining it with retinol or copper peptides in the same routine. Details like these matter more than a general promise on the front of the packaging.

Frequently asked questions

Does an anti-ageing serum work against wrinkles?

A serum can temporarily make the skin look smoother, softer or better hydrated. Brands also often describe it as supporting elasticity or a firmer-looking appearance. According to the brand’s own research, such results may be visible, but these claims are not automatically the same for every user. A serum is not a substitute for medical treatment.

How long can you use a facial serum?

This depends on the shelf life, the period after opening and the storage conditions. Check the packaging and look out for changes in smell, colour or texture. With vitamin C, the product information may state a shorter period of use after opening. Close the bottle securely after every use.

Which serum is suitable for sensitive or mature skin?

For sensitive skin, a simple hydrating formula without strong active ingredients may be a sensible starting point. A serum for mature skin containing peptides, glycerine or hyaluronic acid may be more suitable if you are mainly looking for hydration and comfort. Retinol and retinal require greater care: start with infrequent use, apply a small amount and carry out a patch test first.