Choosing an anti-ageing serum: how to find a facial serum that suits your skin

An anti-ageing serum can help your skin feel more comfortable, smoother and better hydrated. However, it can be difficult to see past all the claims. Terms such as “lifting”, “renewal” and “glow” say little on their own about the formula or how to use it.

When buying a serum for wrinkles, you’re most likely to encounter three pitfalls:

1. An eye-catching claim without a clear ingredients list. Check whether active ingredients, concentrations and directions for use are provided.
2. Too many active ingredients at once. Retinol, retinal, acids and highly concentrated niacinamide can feel uncomfortable if used incorrectly.
3. Confusing hydration with a lasting effect on wrinkles. A hyaluronic acid serum can temporarily make skin look plumper and feel more supple by retaining moisture. That is different from a proven reduction in wrinkles.

The right choice therefore depends on your skin type, experience with active ingredients and the aim of your routine.

Which ingredients should you compare?

1. Retinol and retinal

A retinol serum and a retinal serum contain vitamin A derivatives. They are often used in routines targeting fine lines, uneven texture and a less firm appearance. Their effectiveness and tolerability vary depending on the formula and concentration.

Pay attention to these points:

• Ideally, start by using it every other evening or a few times a week.
• Use retinoids in the evening and apply sun protection the following morning.
• Avoid contact with the eyes and do not use on irritated or damaged skin.
• Products containing retinol or retinal are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding according to the product information provided, unless otherwise advised by a healthcare professional.

A product with a low percentage is not automatically suitable for everyone. The packaging, dosage and additional soothing ingredients also matter.

2. Hydrating ingredients

A hyaluronic acid serum is designed to provide hydration. Glycerine, panthenol, ceramides and polyglutamic acid may also suit dry or tight-feeling skin. Apply a hydrating serum to slightly damp skin and follow with a cream if your skin dries out easily.

Also check whether the formula contains fragrance. Fragrance is not necessarily problematic, but a fragrance-free option may be more practical if you have sensitive skin.

3. Bakuchiol, niacinamide and peptides

A bakuchiol serum is often chosen by people looking for a gentle alternative to retinol. According to EQQUALBERRY’s product description, the serum contains 5000 ppm bakuchiol, 4% niacinamide and five types of micro-encapsulated ceramides. The stated benefits come from the brand’s product information and should not be interpreted as guaranteed results.

A niacinamide serum may suit dull-looking skin, visible pores or an uneven complexion. Peptides are often added to a firming serum. Always check the full ingredients list and introduce one new active product at a time.

How to avoid buying the wrong product

Use this checklist before ordering a serum for fine lines:

• Read the recommended frequency: does it say daily use, every other evening or a gradual build-up schedule?
• Check the volume: 9 ml, 15 ml, 30 ml and 50 ml may look similar in images, but differ considerably in how long they will last.
• Look at the packaging: capsules limit the amount used per application, while a pump bottle is often easier to dose.
• Consider the area of application: some serums are intended for the face and neck, while other product information also mentions the eye area.
• Check the warnings: pay attention to retinoids, spicules, fragrance and possible irritation.
• Don’t expect an instant miracle: a smoother feel caused by hydration may be noticeable quickly, but cosmetic results vary from person to person and usually require consistent use.

A Korean skincare serum or ampoule in spicule packaging deserves extra attention. SKIN1004’s product information states that temporary tingling or redness may occur and recommends a patch test and gradual build-up. Do not use such products on damaged skin.

Our recommendations by user profile

Suitable for: Budget-conscious beginners

OLAY Retinol 24 Max Night Serum 3 Actions 40 ml

Why it suits this profile: The fragrance-free night formula contains retinyl propionate and glycerine and comes in a 40 ml bottle. This makes it easy to dose for anyone starting a retinoid routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients and safety instructions are provided. The brand’s claim about the results is based on a study involving more than 100 women and is not a guarantee for every user.

Key benefit & advantages

40 ml volume, fragrance-free formula and glycerine as a hydrating ingredient.

Suitable for: Buyers looking for premium quality

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: This fragrance-free serum is intended for all skin types and contains bifida ferment lysate, glycerine and sodium hyaluronate, among other ingredients. It suits a comprehensive morning and evening routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The formula does not rely on retinol, so you do not need to combine multiple active vitamin A products. Claims about 72-hour hydration come from Estée Lauder.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, fragrance-free, oil-free and suitable for all skin types according to the product details.

Suitable for: Targeted use & experienced users

celimax THE VITA-A RETINAL SHOT TIGHTENING BOOSTER 15 ml

Why it suits this profile: The formula lists 0.1% retinal and 3% Matrixyl 3000. Using it every other evening and following the warning about sun sensitivity require a consistent routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The packaging provides a clear build-up schedule, a small dosage and night-time use only. This helps prevent applying too much.

Key benefit & advantages

0.1% retinal, 3% Matrixyl 3000 and a 15 ml volume with clear usage warnings.

Suitable for: Sensitive skin and Korean skincare enthusiasts

EQQUALBERRY BAKUCHIOL PLUMPING SERUM 30 ml

Why it suits this profile: According to the brand’s product information, this bakuchiol serum combines bakuchiol with 4% niacinamide, peptides and ceramides. It is intended for users who do not want to choose a retinol product.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The ingredients are clearly listed, so you do not have to rely solely on the term “gentle alternative”. However, carry out a patch test first.

Key benefit & advantages

30 ml, 4% niacinamide and five types of micro-encapsulated ceramides according to the product description.

Frequently asked questions about anti-ageing serum

Which anti-ageing serum is suitable for beginners?

A beginner can start with a hydrating serum containing glycerine, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. If you want to try a retinol serum, choose one with clear directions for use and do not start by using it daily. Apply only a small amount and do not add other strong active products at the same time.

How long does a facial serum last?

The shelf life is stated on the packaging. Check the expiry date or the period after opening, and close the bottle securely after use. Store a retinol or retinal serum somewhere cool and away from direct sunlight. A change in smell, colour or texture is a reason to stop using the product.

Can I combine multiple serums?

Sometimes, but keep your routine simple. For example, combine a hydrating serum during the day with a night serum based on retinol or retinal. Do not use niacinamide, acids and spicule products all at once while your skin is still adjusting. Stop using the product if you experience redness, burning, itching or swelling.